Abstract
We consider the energy transfer equation for well developed ocean waves under the influence of wind, and study the conditions for the existence of an equilibrium solution in which wind input, wave-wave interaction and dissipation balance each other. For the wind input we take the parametrization proposed by Snyder et al (1981), which was based on their measurements in the Bight of Abaco, and which agrees with Miles’ (1957, 1959) theory. The wave-wave interaction is computed with an algorithm given by Hasselmann et al (1984). The dissipation is less well-known, but we will make the general assumption that it is quasi-linear in the wave spectrum with a factor coefficient depending only on frequency and integral spectral parameters (cf. Hasselmann, 1974). Full details of this study are given elsewhere (Kamen, Hasselmann and Hasselmann, 1984). Here we summarize the main results. In the first part of our study we investigated whether the assumption that the equilibrium spectrum exists and is given by the Pierson-Moskowitz spectrum with a standard type of angular distribution leads to a reasonable dissipation function. We find that this is not the case. Even if one balances the total rate of change for each frequency (which is possible), a strong angular imbalance remains. This is illustrated in fig. 1, in which the assumed asymptotic spectrum and the corresponding source terms are given. The dissipation constant is chosen such that at any given frequency the total rate of change vanishes. As one can see there is no angular balance. Thus the assumed source terms are not consistent with this type of asymptotic spectrum. In the second part of the study we chose a different approach. We assumed that the dissipation was given and we performed numerical experiments simulating fetch limited growth, to see under which conditions a stationary solution can be reached. For the dissipation we took Hasselmann’s (1974) form with two unknown parameters. From our analysis it follows that for a certain range of values of these parameters a quasi-equilibrium solution results. We estimate the relation between dissipation parameters and asymptotic growth rates.
Access this chapter
Tax calculation will be finalised at checkout
Purchases are for personal use only
Preview
Unable to display preview. Download preview PDF.
References
Hasselmann, K., 1974. On the spectral dissipation of ocean waves due to white capping. Boundary-Layer Met. 6, 107–127.
Hasselmann, S., K. Hasselmann, J.H. Allender and T.P. Barnett, 1984. Improved methods of computing and parametrizing the nonlinear energy transfer in a gravity wave spectrum (submitted for publication).
Komen, G.J., S. Hasselmann and K. Hasselmann, 1984. On the existence of a fully developed wind-sea spectrum. Journ. Phys. Oceanogr.
Kitaigorodskii, S.A., 1983. On the theory of the equilibrium range in the spectrum of wind-generated gravity waves. J. Phys Oceanogr. 13, 816–827.
Miles, J.W., 1957. On the generation of surface waves by shear flows, Part 1. J. Fluid Mech. 3, 185–204.
Miles, J.W., 1959. On the generation of surface waves by shear flows, Part 2. J. Fluid Mech. 6 568–582.
Snyder, R.L., F.W. Dobson, J.A. Elliot and R.B. Long, 1981. Array measurements of atmospheric pressure fluctuations above surface gravity waves. J. Fluid Mech. 102, 1–59.
Zakharov, V.Ye. and N.N. Filonenko, 1966. The energy spectrum for stochastic oscillations of a fluid surface. Dokl. Akad. Nauk SSSR, 170, No. 6, 1292–1295.
Author information
Authors and Affiliations
Editor information
Editors and Affiliations
Rights and permissions
Copyright information
© 1985 Springer Science+Business Media Dordrecht
About this chapter
Cite this chapter
Kamen, G.J., Hasselmann, S., Hasselmann, K. (1985). The Fully Developed Wind-Sea Spectrum as a Solution of the Energy Balance Equation. In: Toba, Y., Mitsuyasu, H. (eds) The Ocean Surface. Springer, Dordrecht. https://doi.org/10.1007/978-94-015-7717-5_16
Download citation
DOI: https://doi.org/10.1007/978-94-015-7717-5_16
Publisher Name: Springer, Dordrecht
Print ISBN: 978-90-481-8415-6
Online ISBN: 978-94-015-7717-5
eBook Packages: Springer Book Archive