Skip to main content

Metal Threads in Historical Textiles

Results and further aims of scientific investigations in Hungary

  • Conference paper
Molecular and Structural Archaeology: Cosmetic and Therapeutic Chemicals

Part of the book series: NATO ASI Series ((NAII,volume 117))

Abstract

The term “metal thread” is usually applied as collective term of every type of thin, yarn-like textile decorations (strips and wires) made of solid metal. metal-coated organic material or the combination of these with natural or man-made fibres. Metal threads have been used to decoration of textiles. predominantly to embroideries and woven fabrics, since several thousands years. We find then on ecclesiastical as well as on secular vestments, on different accessories like gloves, shoes, head dresses, or even on other objects like hangings, carpets, etc.

This is a preview of subscription content, log in via an institution to check access.

Access this chapter

Chapter
USD 29.95
Price excludes VAT (USA)
  • Available as PDF
  • Read on any device
  • Instant download
  • Own it forever
eBook
USD 169.00
Price excludes VAT (USA)
  • Available as PDF
  • Read on any device
  • Instant download
  • Own it forever
Softcover Book
USD 219.99
Price excludes VAT (USA)
  • Compact, lightweight edition
  • Dispatched in 3 to 5 business days
  • Free shipping worldwide - see info
Hardcover Book
USD 219.99
Price excludes VAT (USA)
  • Durable hardcover edition
  • Dispatched in 3 to 5 business days
  • Free shipping worldwide - see info

Tax calculation will be finalised at checkout

Purchases are for personal use only

Institutional subscriptions

Preview

Unable to display preview. Download preview PDF.

Unable to display preview. Download preview PDF.

References

  1. Bock, F. (1884)Goldstickereien und Webereien in alter und neuer Zeit und das dazu verwandte GoldgespinnstBayerisches Gewerbemuseum in Nürnberg, Nürnberg

    Google Scholar 

  2. Hoke, E. and Pertraschek-Heim, I. (1977) Microprobe analysis of gilded silver threads from mediaeval textilesStudies in Conservation.22. 49–62.

    Article  Google Scholar 

  3. Járó M. (1983) The technological and analytical examination of metal threads in old textiles, in:Postprints of the 4 th International Restorer Seminar.Vol. II. Veszprém, pp. 253–264.

    Google Scholar 

  4. Járó M. (1994) Múzeumi textíliákat díszítö fémfonalak anyagvizsgálata és készítéstechnikájuk meghatározása természettudományos módszerekkel (Analysis of metal threads in museum textiles and determination of their manufacturing technique with scientific methods). PhD thesis. Budapest

    Google Scholar 

  5. Járó M. (1999) A 14–20. századi európai. illetve keleti textíliákon lévó fémfonalak, illetve fémdíszítmények készités-technikájának meghatározására kidolgozott müszeres analitikai vizsgálatok továbbfejlesztése (Improvement of the scientific investigation methods elaborated for the determination of the manufacturing technique of metal threads in 14–20thcentury European and Eastern textiles) research report T 017983. OTKA, Budapest

    Google Scholar 

  6. Geijer, A. and B.Thomas. E. (1964–1965) The Vinunacium Gold Tapestry.Meddelanden Fran Lunds UniversitetsHistoriska Museum. Lund. pp. 223–236.

    Google Scholar 

  7. Skals, I. (1991) Metal thread with animal-hair core.Studies in (’onsenvation.36. 240–242.

    Article  Google Scholar 

  8. Járó M. (1999) Metal thread catalogue. part of the research report cited in [5]

    Google Scholar 

  9. Old TestamentExodus 39,2–3 - in the present state of biblical research (as far as we know), the text describes the history and tradition of the 14–13thcentury BC.

    Google Scholar 

  10. The “youngest” textile fragment. an embroidery. on which we found gold strip wound around a silk core is dated to the 13–14th’ centuries - unpublished data of the author

    Google Scholar 

  11. Járó M., Gondar E. and Tóth A. (1993) Technical revolutions in producing gold threads used for European textile decoration, Antiquités:rationales.Mémoire2. Saint-Germain-en-Laye, 119–124. and unpublished data of the author

    Google Scholar 

  12. Járó M. (1984) The investigation of the metal embroidery threads of the Hungarian coronation mantle by scanning electron microscope and physical methods of analysis, in:Preprints of the ICO.1I Committee for Conservation. 7 th Triennial MeetingVol. 1., Copenhagen. 84.1.22–24.

    Google Scholar 

  13. Járó M. (1999) A 2. sz. szarkofágban talált fémfonal-töredékek természettudományos vizsgálata (Scientific investigation of the metal thread fragments found in the sarchophagus No. 2). in:Brigetio kincsei(Treasures of Brigetio). catalogue, Klapka György Múzeum, Komárom, pp. 29–30.

    Google Scholar 

  14. See the author’s results in: Otawsky.K.. Muhhamad Abbas Muhammad Salim(1995) Mittelalterliche Textilien I.Abegg Stiftung. Riggisberg. Kat. No. 63. and unpublished data of the author

    Google Scholar 

  15. Járó M. (2002) A magyar koronázási palást aranvfonalai (Gold threads in the Hungarian coronation mantle). in: Bardoly I. (ed.) A magyar királyok koronázó palástja (The coronation mantle of the Hungarian kings). Magyar Képek Kiadó. Budapest, pp. 55–72.

    Google Scholar 

  16. Geijer, A. (1938)Birka III. Die Textilfunde aus den Gräbern.Uppsala, 68–69.

    Google Scholar 

  17. Josephus Flavius (1stcentury AD.).4zsidók tórténete(The history of Jews), transi. by J. Révay, Budapest. 1983, p. 550.

    Google Scholar 

  18. As cited in [16]

    Google Scholar 

  19. Unpublished data of the author

    Google Scholar 

  20. Járó M. (2000) A hódoltság kori magyar úri hímzésekhez használt arany-es ezüstfonalak készítömühelyei (Manufactures of gold and silver threads used for embroidery in Hungary during the Turkish occupation), research report 98–57 1,2, Hungarian Academy of Sciences. Budapest

    Google Scholar 

  21. As cited in [20]

    Google Scholar 

  22. Járó M. (2001) Il filato metallico, in:I! piviale di Pio ILa cura di Laura Martini, Silvana Editortale, Milano, pp. 88–90.

    Google Scholar 

  23. Járó M., Tóth A. and Kiss-Bendefy M. (1994) Investigation of metal threads and metallic decorations of a 16thcentury bonnet, in: Tímár-Balázsv Á. and Eastop, D. (eds.)International Perspectives of Textile ConservationPapers from the ICOM CC Textiles Working Group Meetings. Amsterdam 13–14 October 1994 and Budapest 11–15 September 1995. Archetype Publications. London, pp.127–132. and as cited in [20]

    Google Scholar 

  24. Unpublished data of the author

    Google Scholar 

  25. As cited in [2]

    Google Scholar 

  26. Járó M., Gál T. and Tóth A. (2000) The characterization and deterioration of modern metallic threadsStudies in Conservation45, No. 2. 95–105.

    Article  Google Scholar 

  27. As cited in [20] and [4]

    Google Scholar 

  28. As cited in [26]

    Google Scholar 

  29. See for example: Járó M., Tóth A. and Gondar E. (1990) Determination of the manufacturing technique of a 10thcentury metal thread, in:Preprints of the ICOM Committee for Conservation 9 th “ Triennial MeetingVol. I.. Dresden. pp. 299–302.: Járó M. and Tóth A.L. (1994) Mode de fabrication des fils métalliques provenant des fouilles en Hongrie. in:La conservation des textiles anciensVolume des contributions des Journées d’Études de la SFIIC. Angers. pp. 157–167. and as cited in [22]

    Google Scholar 

  30. See for example ref. [23]; Tóth A. and Járó M. (1992) Untersuchung der Goldfäden einer ungarischen Prunksatteldecke aus dem 16. Jahrhundert.Restauratorenblätter13, 65–68.: Járó M. and Tóth A. (1991) Scientific identification of European metal thread manufacturing techniques of the 17–19thcenturiesEndeavourNew Series, Vol.15., No. 4., 175–184. and the authors results of metal thread analyses in: Vajk E. (2002)Majláth ornatus a hudapesti Egyetemi templom kincsei(The Majláth-ornate. treasures of the University church in Budapest), Budapest, pp. 45–47.

    Google Scholar 

  31. Unpublished data of the author

    Google Scholar 

  32. As cited in [20]

    Google Scholar 

  33. Unpublished data of the author

    Google Scholar 

  34. Járó M. and Tóth A.L. (1994) Possibilities of reconstruction of metal coating techniques used for solid metal strips or wires in museum textiles. in.Proceedings of the 4th International Conference on Non-Destructive Testing o] Works ofArtBerlin, pp. 544–553.

    Google Scholar 

  35. Járó M. (in press) Catalogue of metal threads on mediaeval weavings in the collection of the German National Museum. in: Martins. S. and Russ. S. (eds.)Historische Textilien - Beiträge zu ihrer Er/orvchung und ErhaltungVeröffentlichungen des Instituts für Kunsttechnik und Konservierung im Germanischen Nationalmuseum, Band 6, Nürnberg

    Google Scholar 

  36. Unpublished data of the author

    Google Scholar 

  37. As cited in [35]

    Google Scholar 

  38. Unpublished data of the author

    Google Scholar 

  39. Rinuy, A. (1995) Fils d’or et d’argent des broderies ottomanes: identification de leur mode de fabrication, in:Ceviz broderies de /’Empire ottoman.catalogue d’exposition. Musée d’art et d’histoire. Geneve, pp. 13–26.

    Google Scholar 

  40. Unpublished data of the author

    Google Scholar 

  41. The author’s results of metal thread analyses in: Vajk E. (2002)Majláth ornátus a budapesti Egyetemi templom kincsei(The Majlát -ornate. treasures of the University church in Budapest), Budapest, pp. 45–47.

    Google Scholar 

  42. Unpublished data of the author

    Google Scholar 

  43. As cited in [41] and unpublished data of the author

    Google Scholar 

  44. As cited in [23]

    Google Scholar 

  45. As cited in [26]

    Google Scholar 

  46. As cited in [26]

    Google Scholar 

  47. Unpublished data of the author

    Google Scholar 

  48. As cited in [26]

    Google Scholar 

  49. As cited in [23]

    Google Scholar 

  50. Járó M. and Tóth A.L. (1994) Mode de fabrication des fils métalliques provenant des fouilles en Hongrie. in:La conservation des textiles anciens.Volume des contributions des Journées d’Études de la SFIIC, Angers, pp. 157–167.

    Google Scholar 

  51. Tóth A. and Járó M. (1992) Untersuchung der Goldfaden einer ungarischen Prunksatteldecke aus dem 16. JahrhundertRestauratorenblätter13, 65–68. and unpublished data of the author

    Google Scholar 

  52. As cited in [51]

    Google Scholar 

  53. Unpublished data of the author

    Google Scholar 

  54. Unpublished data of the author

    Google Scholar 

  55. As cited in [20]

    Google Scholar 

  56. As cited in [50]

    Google Scholar 

  57. As cited in [5] and unpublished data of the author

    Google Scholar 

  58. As cited in [50]

    Google Scholar 

  59. Unpublished data of the author

    Google Scholar 

  60. Unpublished data of the author

    Google Scholar 

  61. As cited in [26]

    Google Scholar 

  62. As cited in [39]

    Google Scholar 

  63. As cited in [50]

    Google Scholar 

  64. As cited in [26]

    Google Scholar 

  65. As cited in [50]

    Google Scholar 

  66. As cited in [26]

    Google Scholar 

  67. As cited in [20]

    Google Scholar 

  68. Unpublished data of the author and as cited in [26]

    Google Scholar 

  69. Unpublished data of the author and as cited in [35]

    Google Scholar 

  70. Unpublished data of the author

    Google Scholar 

  71. Unpublished data of the author

    Google Scholar 

  72. Unpublished data of the author

    Google Scholar 

  73. Unpublished data of the author

    Google Scholar 

  74. Unpublished data of the author

    Google Scholar 

  75. Járó M. (1997) St. Valero ornate - a ‘treasury’ of mediaeval metal threads, research report, Barcelona

    Google Scholar 

  76. Unpublished data of the author

    Google Scholar 

  77. As cited in [75] and unpublished data of the author

    Google Scholar 

  78. Unpublished data of the author

    Google Scholar 

  79. Unpublished data of the author

    Google Scholar 

  80. Unpublished data of the author

    Google Scholar 

  81. Járó M. (1998) Manufacturing technique, usually neglected, with the description of mediaeval metal threads made of metal coated organic material. Some remarks on the basis of the results of scientific examinations, in: Varoli Piazza, R. (ed.)Interdisciplinary Approach about Studies and Conservation of Medieval textilesPreprints of the Interim Meeting of the ICOM CC Textile Working Group in Palermo, Roma, pp. 141–148.

    Google Scholar 

  82. Járó M. and Gondár E.(1988) Mediaeval membrane threads used for weaving and embroidery, in: Járó M. and Költö L.(eds.) trchaeometrical Research in HungaryBudapest, pp. 255–266.

    Google Scholar 

  83. As cited in [35]

    Google Scholar 

  84. As cited in [35]

    Google Scholar 

  85. Unpublished data of the author

    Google Scholar 

  86. Unpublished data of the author and the author’s investigation results in: Giorgi. M. and Palei, G. (1997) The restoration of five gauzes from the National Oriental Museum of Art in Palazzo Brancaccio of Rome. in:SET Jubilee Conference textbookStockholm

    Google Scholar 

  87. Unpublished data of the author

    Google Scholar 

  88. Unpublished data of the author

    Google Scholar 

  89. As cited in [35]

    Google Scholar 

  90. Unpublished data of the author

    Google Scholar 

  91. Unpublished data of the author

    Google Scholar 

  92. As cited in [3] and [86]

    Google Scholar 

  93. As cited in [26]

    Google Scholar 

  94. As cited in [26]

    Google Scholar 

  95. As cited in [26]

    Google Scholar 

  96. As cited in [26]

    Google Scholar 

  97. As cited in [26]

    Google Scholar 

  98. As cited in [26]

    Google Scholar 

  99. The publications of foreign researcher dealing with the same subject, referred by us to, are given in our listed articles

    Google Scholar 

  100. As cited for example in [15], [22], [23], [41] or [86]

    Google Scholar 

  101. Járó M. and Nagy Gy. T. (2001) Experiment on computerized colour reconstruction of the corroded metal surfaces of textile ornaments with leather, paper or membrane threads in: Török K. (ed.)Conservation around the milleniumHungarian National Museum, Budapest, pp. 125–131.

    Google Scholar 

  102. Járó M. (1990) Gold Embroidery and Fabrics in Europe: XI-XIV CenturiesGold BulletinVol. 23., No. 2., 40–57.; Járó M. and Tóth A. (1991) Scientific identification of European metal thread manufactunng techniques of the 17–19U1centuriesEndeavourNew Series, Vol.15., No. 4.. 175–184. and as cited in [11]

    Google Scholar 

  103. Járó M. (1995) Manufacturing technique of gold threads and their imitations on museum textiles - chronology of the preparation of metal threads. Results of the scientific investigations in: Endrei W. (ed.)Yearbook of the Textile Museum(Budapest), 8. (Special Issue).. Textil-es Textilruházati Ipartörténeti Múzeumi Alapítvány, Budapest, pp. 31–51.

    Google Scholar 

  104. Járó M. (1997) Fémfonalak készítéstechnikájának gyors meghatározasa a textília tisztítása elött (Quick determination of the manufacturing technique of metal threads before treatment)Múzeumi Mútárgvvédeleni24/1995, Magyar Nemzeti Múzeum, pp. 91–100.

    Google Scholar 

  105. For example: Sípos E. (1994) Restoration of a sixteenth-century bonnet from St. Martin’s Church in Szombathely, in: Tímár-Balázsy Á. and Eastop. D.(eds.) International Perspectives of Textile ConservationPapers from the ICOM CC Textiles Working Group Meetings. Amsterdam 13–14 October 1994 and Budapest 11–15 September 1995, Archetype Publications. London. pp. 121–126. or as cited in [26]

    Google Scholar 

Download references

Author information

Authors and Affiliations

Authors

Editor information

Editors and Affiliations

Rights and permissions

Reprints and permissions

Copyright information

© 2003 Springer Science+Business Media Dordrecht

About this paper

Cite this paper

JáRó, M. (2003). Metal Threads in Historical Textiles. In: Tsoucaris, G., Lipkowski, J. (eds) Molecular and Structural Archaeology: Cosmetic and Therapeutic Chemicals. NATO ASI Series, vol 117. Springer, Dordrecht. https://doi.org/10.1007/978-94-010-0193-9_15

Download citation

  • DOI: https://doi.org/10.1007/978-94-010-0193-9_15

  • Publisher Name: Springer, Dordrecht

  • Print ISBN: 978-1-4020-1499-4

  • Online ISBN: 978-94-010-0193-9

  • eBook Packages: Springer Book Archive

Publish with us

Policies and ethics