Technical progress and fashion in perfumery

Abstract

An attempt to discover the psychological and physiological factors underlying the modern concept of esthetics in perfumery is not only of theoretical interest but offers insights of great practical use to the perfumer in his work. All cultures at all times have used the narcotic effect of burning, usually fragrant fumigants to induce or reinforce a mood conducive to mystical thoughts. Archeological finds of incense burners document the exercise of this practice in Egypt, Babylonia, Asia Minor and in southern Europe. A granite plate inserted into the breast of a sphinx shows King Thothmes (c. 1600 bc) bringing a burnt offering. The religious ceremonies of the Jews also used burnt offerings as testified by the prophet Isaiah (Isaiah 1, 13; 6, 6) who lived in the eighth century bc. The oracles of the Delphic god were delivered by the priestess Phytia in a trance of narcotic vapors. Incense, one of the most widely known resins for burnt offerings, was used by Egyptians, Babylonians, Greeks and Romans, the latter starting only in the second century bc (Ashley, 1909). The introduction of incense into Catholic liturgy occurred in the fourth century. The practice of ceremonial burnt offerings has been preserved up to the present also in the Chinese and Indian religions. As these examples show, fragrant resins were initially used solely for ceremonial, i.e. mystical, purposes. In most ancient cultures the priest was also the healer. He used fragrant plant materials and smoking also for sanitary purposes.