Abstract
In studying the development and role of home appliances, either from a historical or anthropological or a sociological perspective, there emerges a kind of symmetry: what they do is, in effect, what humans can do. Appliances just do it better, they do it faster, they are more thorough, they do it more safely. Electric stoves, gas ovens, vacuum cleaners, washing machines even electric irons have their ‘counterparts’ in human activities and, at times, in human skilfulness. They can, in effect, be regarded as concentrated labour. There is, however, an intriguing exception to this rule: home refrigerators and to a certain extent, air conditioning. In other words, appliances producing artificial cold do not appear to be instantiations of concentrated labour. And if one is to search any kind of symmetry analogous to the appliances mentioned above, one will have to search it not with respect to human labour and skills, but with respect to natural conditions. Refrigerators ‘(re)produce’ what happens in cold winter days or what exists in mountain tops; refrigerators are regarded as appliances which harness and control ‘something’ found in nature. And, thus, refrigerators and air conditioners, as opposed to all other home appliances, produce something for consumption. They produce cold and, hence, they regulate its consumption. Furthermore, refrigerators not only produce material forms of cold, that is ice cubes (there is no analogue for heat), but they also produce a quality that creates an added value to a vast number of products. The very possibility that foodstuff can be preserved in cold, gives to these products an extra value. To have consumer goods, whose rate of perishing can be diminished with the aid of a specific appliance, makes these goods more valuable.
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Notes
- 1.
The secondary literature on food and foodways is vast and is associated mostly with the fields of anthropology, geography, sociology, history, cultural studies, medicine, public health and business. For a comprehensive bibliographical essay up to 1982 see Camp (1982). For a recent collection of readings on a social and cultural analysis of food see (Watson and Caldwell 2005). For a history of commercial farming and processed food in the US see Vileisis (2007). Similarly on a comparative analysis of attitudes towards food in four European countries and the US see Fischler and Masson (2008). Note also the existence of the specialised international and interdisciplinary journal Food and Foodways that publishes a wide variety of articles on the history and culture of nourishment.
- 2.
For the use of the term ‘fresh’ for non-processed products that may have been harvested, stored and travelled months before they reach the hands of the consumer see also Golfrank (2005).
- 3.
An interesting study on the emergence of ‘cultural diversity’ through food in Greece during the 1990s is cultural anthropologist’s Yiakoumaki, V. 2006. ‘Local’, ‘Ethnic’, and ‘Rural’ Food: On the Emergence of ‘Cultural Diversity’ in Post-EU-Accession Greece. Journal of Modern Greek Studies, 24: 415–45.
- 4.
Greece became an associate member of the EEC in 1962. We are still in demand of a more detailed story of the development of the Cold Chain in Greece, the contribution of technical laboratories and experimental stations working on the preservation of perishable produce in the low temperatures, the role of foreign expertise and so on.
- 5.
The distribution of frozen fish in the countryside was very limited due to the difficulties of transportation and storage in freezers, and due to the fact that the network of electricity did not cover the entire country.
- 6.
Of course, the quantity of fish harvested by other European countries far superseded that of Greece. Denmark had reached an annual production of 450,000 t, Spain 770,000 t, the USSR around 2,500,000 t etc. (Kyriazis 1957: 6).
- 7.
Individual experience seems to be a very powerful factor that undermines statistical data. For an analysis of risk perception concerning food see Fischler, Claude, ‘Food Selection and Risk Perception’: http://www.researchgate.net/publication/228793839_Food_selection_and_risk_perception. Accessed 20 May 2013.
- 8.
See for example Anon. 1956. The economy of Piraeus and issues of the port. Oikonomikos Tachidromos (1956, December 20/1957, April 11/1958, October 23/1959, June 25/1960, February 11/1960): 10.
- 9.
See for example Chevalier, C. 1961, The creation of the Cold Chain in Greece. Oikonomikos Tachidromos, June 22: 8; Vayanos, J. 1963. Greece in the Common Market: The role of the developing Cold Chain in the promotion of exports in the EEC. Oikonomikos Tachidromos, February 7: 8; Maniatis, G., 1964. On the smooth diffusion of perishable produce in the Greek and International Market. The Cold Chain. Oikonomikos Tachidromos, November 26: 8; G.L. 1967. New perspectives on fruits and vegetables. Frozen. Strawberries and Vegetables. Oikonomikos Tachidromos, March 9: 12; Zoumpoulis, A. 1969. For the good preservation of agricultural products during transport. The Cold Chain is completed with the automatic containers. The latest international destinations, and the Greek transport policy. Oikonomikos Tachidromos, July 31: 23 etc.
- 10.
Most exports were directed to the Fruit and Vegetable market in Munich. See Anon. (1969).
- 11.
Interfrigo was a Belgium-based company created in 1949, which was later transformed into a consortium of various European and neighbouring countries. See also Sklias (1957).
- 12.
It was only in the 1980s that the same brand offered the first frozen pre-made meals in Greece. See http://www.arathra.eu/~superbrn/cms/images/stories/pdf_files/barba_stathis.pdf. Accessed 20 May 2013.
- 13.
Almost the same amount of ice was produced in the pre-war period from the 20 ice factories of Athens (K., A. 1935).
- 14.
Cartoons in general periodicals of the early 1950s associate, in a satirical way, electrical refrigerators with the ‘new rich’. See for example Christodoulou, V. 1951. New rich. Thesauros, November 19: 15.
- 15.
We should of course take into consideration that these 600 refrigerators were probably installed in the urban centres since the network of electricity did not extend to the countryside.
- 16.
The diffusion of electrical refrigeration in the Greek (urban) household is made evident from the rapid decrease in ice production during the 1960s. Within a period of 6 years, from 1960 to 1966, the total ice production of the country for domestic needs decreased by half. See Vamvakas (1975: 44).
- 17.
Some of the first advertisements of Izola kitchens underlined the fact that the company’s products were produced by Greek workmen, and therefore consumers contributed to the well being of Greek workforce. See Izola Advertisement. 1953. Embros, November 4: 3; November 12: 5 etc.
- 18.
The only reference to an Izola refrigerator I came across was a 1952 piece of news that announced Izola’s offering an electric refrigerator to the King, who had visited the factory in order to see ‘the progress of the Greek industry of electrical appliances’ see Anon. (1952: 5).
- 19.
Advertisement: Electric kitchen and electric refrigerator. Izola. 1953. Romantzo, issue 518, February 3: 39, or Why be sad for not being able to buy an electric refrigerator in cash?. 1953 Romantzo, issue 520, February 17: 39.
- 20.
Advertisement: Worth more than what you pay. 1960. Eikones, issue 263, November 4: 2.
- 21.
Advertisement: During the holidays add happiness in your house with an electric fridge Kelvinator. 1960. Eikones, issue 269, December 16: 6.
- 22.
Advertisement: Winter? It is now that your fridge is indispensable!. 1961. Embros, December 17: 7.
- 23.
The ‘seasonality’ of the machine in the mind of Greek consumers of the early 1950s is also shown in cartoons depicting costumers rushing to buy a refrigerator over the hot summer days. See Heat. 1951. Romantzo, issue 440, August 7: 14.
- 24.
Advertisement: Every time you drink a glass of water, think of Izola. 1958. Eikones, issue 153, September 29: 7.
- 25.
Advertisement: During winter the electric refrigerator is necessary for you. 1959. Eikones, issue 203, September 14: 37; Advertisement: Winter! Now you need an Izola fridge. 1960. Eikones, issue 268, December 9: 15.
- 26.
Advertisement: So that I can enjoy in the mid of the summer the wonderful coolness of an Izola fridge. 1960. Eikones, issue 253, August 26: 65.
- 27.
Advertisement: August, my good month, I wished you came twice a year. 1960. Eikones, issue 253, August 26: 65.
- 28.
Advertisements: The brand that symbolises many years of superiority!. 1960. Eikones, issue 233, April 8: 6; 80 years of experience. 1961. Eikones, issue 285, April 7: 12; Defrosting? Which one do you prefer? 1967. Eikones, issue 597, March 31: 11.
- 29.
Advertisement: A magnificent fridge with the quality of American materials. 1964. Eikones, issue 451, June 12: 8.
- 30.
Advertisement: 15.000.000 families have Kelvinator fridges. 1960. Eikones, issue 249, July 29: 13.
- 31.
Advertisements: Leonard. The most suitable fridge for every Greek house. 1959. Embros, July 13: 46; Exactly as you want them. The new Kelvinator fridges. 1960. Eikones, issue 240, May 27: iii; Welcome!…metallic compartment, cooling motor for tropical climates, automatic defrosting. 1965. Eikones, issue 498, May 7: 57 etc.
- 32.
Kerassotis. The story of a fake legend and a big fraud. Izola. The profit-making industrial carcinoma and Drakos. What is hidden behind the glamour and advertisements (n.p./n.d) [probably published in Athens in 1959]: 26, and oral interview with Greek manufacturer Apostolos Pitsos (4.10.2008).
- 33.
Pitsos manufactured its first fridge in 1959. However, the company dated back in 1865 with the production of small household equipment. Advertisement: New Line. 1963. Eikones, issue 404, July 19: 9.
- 34.
Advertisement: Once for ever. 1960. Eikones, issue 270, December 23: 73.
- 35.
Advertisement: Electric fridges Izola. 1958. Eikones, issue 159. November 10: 57
- 36.
Advertisement: Buy a Frigidaire. The best in the world. A product of General Motors Corp. 1960. Eikones, issue 248, July 22: 7; Advertisement: Being smart…is to buy an electric fridge Frigidaire. The best in the world. 1960. Eikones, issue 250, August 5: 6.
- 37.
Advertisement: Every doctor will tell you that…an electric fridge is necessary for your health. 1961. Eikones, issue 281, March 10: 4.
- 38.
Advertisement: Fridges in a new panoramic line. 1961. Eikones, issue 299, July 14: 56.
- 39.
Tellier was presented as the archetype of an inventive genius, who died in poverty after his inability to secure the commercial exploitation of his inventions. Anon. 1932, Daily encyclopedia: The “father” of cold. Athinaika Nea, October 19: 3; Anon. 1939. Daily encyclopedia: The refrigerator. Athinaika Nea, November 10: 3; Anon. 1939. Daily encyclopedia: Artificial cold. Athinaika Nea, November 11: 3; Anon. 1954. The miracles of refrigeration. Romantzo, issue 592, July 5: 35; Anon. 1954. The inventor of the refrigerator. Thesauros, issue 821, August 22: 57; Anon. 1955. The inventor of frozen food. Thesauros, issue 849, March 6: 62; Anon. 1955. Frozen meat. Thesauros, issue 889, December 11: 30; Anon. 1962. How was the electric refrigerator invented. Romantzo, issue 1011, July 17: 33; Anon. 1963. How was ice discovered. The history of the invention of refrigerators. Romantzo, issue 1051, April 23: 24.
- 40.
Anon. 1952. Science for all: Vitamins of frozen [meat]. Thesauros, issue 705, June 1: 32; Zervos, K., 1955. Frozen meat. Thesauros, issue 889, December 11: 30; Anon. 1958. Fresh vegetables and fruits. How to preserve their vitamins. Thesauros, issue 1015, May 8: 37; Scientific news: Anon. 1960. Food in the refrigerator. Thesauros, issue 1143, October 20: 32; Anon. 1960. Preventions about foodstuff. Thesauros, issue 1144, October 27: 59.
- 41.
Anon. 1952. The electric fridge: how to store foodstuff and how to take care of them. Romantzo, issue 482, May 30: 55; Anon. 1953. Small secrets for women: Frozen meat. Thesauros, issue 753, May 3: 58; Anon. 1956. How to use your electric refrigerator. Thesauros, issue 917, June 24: 30; Anon. 1959. What do you have to know about your electric refrigerator. Romantzo, issue 848, June 2: 14; Anon. 1962. Frozen fish. Thesauros, issue 1223, May 3: 57; Anon. 1963. Do you know how to use your refrigerator? Everything housewives should know about. Thesauros, issue 1290, August 15: 68–9; Anon. 1964. Guide for a young housewife: When she works outside the house. Thesauros, issue 1348, September 24: 60–1 etc.
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Acknowledgements
This research is part of a larger project on the emergence of refrigeration technologies in Greece funded by a Marie Curie European Reintegration Grant. Earlier versions of this chapter were presented in workshops in Trondheim, Norway (‘Food, Technology and Trust’, March 2010) and Lisbon, Portugal (5th HoST annual workshop, September 2010). I would like to thank the participants of both workshops, as well as Kostas Gavroglu for their comments and suggestions.
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Papanelopoulou, F. (2014). ‘Fresher than Fresh’. Consumer Attitudes Towards the Development of the Cold Chain in Post-2WW Greece. In: Gavroglu, K. (eds) History of Artificial Cold, Scientific, Technological and Cultural Issues. Boston Studies in the Philosophy and History of Science, vol 299. Springer, Dordrecht. https://doi.org/10.1007/978-94-007-7199-4_14
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