Summary
A statistical approach is suggested to determine theoretically the energy distribution of the shallow water swell having a pronounced nonlinearity and finite spectral band-width. The approach is based on two assumptions; they are: i) the swell is approximately representable as a train of random solitons which are governed by the Korteweg-de Vries equation and ii) its initial state satisfies the maximum occurrence probability condition, that is, under this condition the wave energy is assigned to each possible soliton in obedience to the way that is extremely liable to take place. It is revealed that the energy distribution calculated by this approach agrees well with the observed results.
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References
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© 1988 Springer-Verlag Berlin Heidelberg
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Yasuda, T., Mishima, T., Tsuchiya, Y. (1988). Energy Distribution of Shallow Water Swell under the Maximum Probability Condition. In: Horikawa, K., Maruo, H. (eds) Nonlinear Water Waves. International Union of Theoretical and Applied Mechanics. Springer, Berlin, Heidelberg. https://doi.org/10.1007/978-3-642-83331-1_10
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DOI: https://doi.org/10.1007/978-3-642-83331-1_10
Publisher Name: Springer, Berlin, Heidelberg
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