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Energy Distribution of Shallow Water Swell under the Maximum Probability Condition

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Book cover Nonlinear Water Waves

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Summary

A statistical approach is suggested to determine theoretically the energy distribution of the shallow water swell having a pronounced nonlinearity and finite spectral band-width. The approach is based on two assumptions; they are: i) the swell is approximately representable as a train of random solitons which are governed by the Korteweg-de Vries equation and ii) its initial state satisfies the maximum occurrence probability condition, that is, under this condition the wave energy is assigned to each possible soliton in obedience to the way that is extremely liable to take place. It is revealed that the energy distribution calculated by this approach agrees well with the observed results.

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References

  1. Tsuchiya, Y.; Yasuda, T.: A dynamical expression of waves in shallow water, Proc. 19th Int. Conf. on Coastal Eng., 1984, 435–451.

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  2. Yasuda, T.; Shinoda, S.: Soliton mode representation for kinematics of shallow water swell, in Coastal Hydrodynamics (ed. R. A. Dalrymple, ASCE ), 1987, 751–764.

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  3. Gardner, C. S.: Korteweg-de Vries equation and generalizations. IV., J. Math. Phys. 12 (8), 1971, 1548–1551.

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  4. Goda, Y.: Analysis of wave grouping and spectra of long-travelled swell, Rep. Port Harb. Res. Inst., 22 (1), 1983, 3–41.

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Author information

Authors and Affiliations

  1. Department of Civil Engineering, Gifu University, Gifu, Japan

    T. Yasuda & T. Mishima

  2. Disaster Prevention Research Institute, Kyoto University, Kyoto, Japan

    Y. Tsuchiya

Authors
  1. T. Yasuda
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  2. T. Mishima
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  3. Y. Tsuchiya
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Editor information

Editors and Affiliations

  1. Dept. of Civil Engineering, University of Tokyo, 7-3-1 Hongo, Bunkyo-ku, Tokyo 113, Japan

    Kiyoshi Horikawa

  2. Dept. of Naval Architecture and Ocean Engineering, Yokohama National University, 156 Tokiwadai, Hodogaya-ku, Yokohama 240, Japan

    Hajime Maruo

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© 1988 Springer-Verlag Berlin Heidelberg

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Yasuda, T., Mishima, T., Tsuchiya, Y. (1988). Energy Distribution of Shallow Water Swell under the Maximum Probability Condition. In: Horikawa, K., Maruo, H. (eds) Nonlinear Water Waves. International Union of Theoretical and Applied Mechanics. Springer, Berlin, Heidelberg. https://doi.org/10.1007/978-3-642-83331-1_10

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  • DOI: https://doi.org/10.1007/978-3-642-83331-1_10

  • Publisher Name: Springer, Berlin, Heidelberg

  • Print ISBN: 978-3-642-83333-5

  • Online ISBN: 978-3-642-83331-1

  • eBook Packages: Springer Book Archive

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