Abstract
Effective dermato-cosmetic products are required to improve the skin properties not only for aesthetic purposes but also to maintain the normal conditions of skin and to prevent dry skin alterations. Various moisturizers are available consisting of synthetic adhesives, emulsifiers, perfuming agents, pigments, surfactants and thickeners to form the base. There is extensive need to replace toxic synthetic agent from base using natural agents. Designing of safe and effective moisturizers with suitable raw materials is very challenging aspect. Various natural components which could constitute moisturising formulations are discussed with their formulation preparation techniques, quality control parameters and regulatory requirements.
Access this chapter
Tax calculation will be finalised at checkout
Purchases are for personal use only
References
Andrade FF, Santos ODH, Oliveira WP, Rocha-Filho PA (2007) Influence of PEG-12 dimethicone addition on stability and formation of emulsions containing liquid crystal. Int J Cosmet Sci 29:211–218
Ashawat MS, Banchhor M, Saraf S et al (2009) Herbal cosmetics: trends in skin care formulation. Phcog Rev 3(5):72–79
Ashawat MS, Saraf S, Saraf S (2008) Preparation and characterisation of herbal creams for improvement of skin viscoelastic properties. Int J Cosmet Sci 30:183–193
Ashawat MS, Saraf S, Saraf S (2007) Biochemical and histopathological studies of herbal cream against UV radiation induced damage. Trends Med Res 2(3):135–141
Belo SED, Gaspar LR, Campos RMBGM (2006) Moisturizing effect of cosmetic formulations containing Aloe vera extract in different concentrations assessed by skin bioengineering techniques. Skin Res Technol 12:241–246
Barel AO (1995) Clary’s measurement of epidermal capacitance. In: Bioengineering of the skin: water and the stratum corneum. CRC Press, Boca Raton, pp 165–170
Bendova H, Akram J, Krejci A, Kubac L, Jirova D, Kejlova K, Kolarova H, Brabec M, Maly M (2007) In vitro approaches to evaluation of sun protection factor. Toxicol In Vitro 21:1268–1275
Benson HA (2006) Transferosomes for transdermal drug delivery. Expert Opin Drug Deliv 3(6):727–737
Betz G, Aeppli A, Menshutina N et al (2005) In vivo comparison of various liposome formulations for cosmetic application. Int J Pharm 296:44–54
BIS (Bureau of Indian standard) (2006) General guidelines for herbal cosmetics. PCD-19:6/T-1 C 1–6
Carlotti ME, Gallarate M, Rossatto V (2003) O/W microemulsion as a vehicle for sunscreens. J Cosmet Sci 54(5):451–462
Cevc G (2004) Lipid vesicles and other colloids as drug carriers on the skin. Adv Drug Deliv Rev 56(5):675–711
COLIPA (2001) Evaluation of the efficacy of cosmetic products. COLIPA Guidelines 1–16
Deep C, Saraf S (2009) Herbal photoprotective formulations and their evaluation. Open Nat Prod J 2:57–62
Deep C, Saraf S (2008) Novel approaches in herbal cosmetics. J Cosmet Dermatol 7:89–95
Escoffer C, Rigal JD, Rochefort R et al (1989) Age related mechanical properties of human skin: an in vivo study. J Invest Dermatol 93:353–357
European Chemicals Bureau, ECB (2003) Technical guidance document on risk assessment in support of Commission Directive 93/67/EEC on risk assessment for new notified substances, Commission Regulation (EC) No 1488/94 on risk assessment for existing substances and Directive 98/8/EC of the European Parliament and of the Council concerning the placing of biocidal products on the market. Doc. EUR 20418 EN/1, European Communities
Forster T, Tesmann H (1991) Phase inversion emulsification. Cosmet Toil 11:106
Gregoriadis G (1994) Liposomes and anti-ageing creams: the facts beneath the face. Biochemist Feb/Mar
Gupta A, Ashawat MS, Saraf S, Swarnlata S (2007) Phytosome: a novel approach towards functional cosmetics. J Plant Sci 2(6):644–649
Heinrich U, Koop U, Leneveu Duchemin MC et al (2003) Multicentre comparison of skin hydration in terms of physical, physiological and product dependent parameters by the capacitive method (Corneometer CM 825). Int J Cosmet Sci 25:45–53
Jacobi O, Heinrich (1954) The acid mantle of the skin. Proceedings Science Sector of Toilet Goods Association, 21, 6
Kapoor S, Saraf S (2009) Age dependent studies as various skin parameters using cutometer. Indian J Pharm Educ Res 43(4):338–345
Kapoor S, Swarnlata S (2008) A note on dire need of harmonisation of cosmetic legislation. Int J Trade Glob Mark 1(4):419–431
Kapoor S, Saraf S (2008) Risk analysis tools for toxicological profile of cosmetics. Internet J Toxicol 5(2):1–13
Kapoor S, Saraf S (2010) Assessment of viscoelasticity and hydration effect of herbal moisturizers using bioengineering techniques. Phcog Mag 6(24):298–304
Kapoor S, Saraf S (2010) Formulation and evaluation of moisturizer containing herbal extracts for the management of dry skin. Phcog J 2(11):409–418
Kaur CD, Saraf S (2010) In vitro SPF determination of herbal oils used in cosmetics. Pharmacog Res 2(1):22–25
Kaur CD, Saraf S (2011) Photochemoprotective activity of alcoholic extract of Camellia sinensis. Int J Pharmacol 7(3):400–404
Lachapelle JM (1996) Efficacy of protective creams and/or gels. Prevention of contact dermatitis. Curr Probl Dermatol 25:182–192
Lachman L, Herbert AL, Joseph LK (1999) The theory and practice of industrial pharmacy, IIIth edn. Varghese Publ. House, Bombay, p 569
Latuen AR (1958) Fundamental and comparative actions of cleansing cream. Am Perfumes 72:29
Leydenn JJ (1995) New understanding of the pathogenesis of acne. J Am Acad Dermatol 32:S15–S25
Loggia RD, Sosa S, Tubaro A, Morazzoni P, Bombardelli E, Griffin A (1996) Anti-inflammatory activity of some Gingko biloba constituents and of their phospholipids- complexes. Fitoterapia 3:257–273
Mansur JS, Breder MNR, Mansur MCA et al (1986) Determinação Do Fator De Proteção Solar Por Espectrofotometria. An Bras Dermatol 61:121–124
Marty JP (2002) NMF and cosmetology of cutaneous hydration. Ann Dermatol Venereol 129:131–136
Niemiec SM, Ramachandran C, Weiner N (1995) Influence of nonionic liposomal composition on topical delivery of peptide drugs into pilosebaceous units: an in vivo study using the hamster ear model. Pharm Res 12(8):1184–1188
Oyedeji FO, Okeke IE (2010) Comparative analysis of moisturising creams from vegetable oils and paraffin oil. Res J Appl Sci 5(3):157–160
Rawlings AV, Harding CR (2004) Moisturization and skin barrier function. Dermatol Ther 17:43–48
Saraf S, Kapoor S (2008) Cosmetic legislation, Istth edn. Nirali Prakashan, Pune. ISBN 978–81–96396–13–8
Saraf S, Kaur CD (2010) Phytoconstituents as photoprotective novel cosmetic formulations. Pharmacog Rev 4(7):1–11
Saraf S (2010) Application of nanosystem in cosmetics. In: Chaughule RS, Ramanujan RV (eds) Nanoparticles synthesis, characterization and applications. American Scientific Publication, Stevenson Ranch, pp 379–399. ISBN 1–58883–180–9
Saraf S, Paliwal S, Kaur CD, Saraf S (2011) Sphingosomes a novel approach to vesicular drug delivery. Res J Pharm Tech 4(5):661–666
Saraf S, Sahu S, Kaur CD, Saraf S (2010) Comparative measurement of hydration effects of herbal moisturizers. Pharmacog Res 2(3):146–151
Scientific Committee of Cosmetics and Non-Food Products (SCCNFP) (2003) Notes of guidance for testing of cosmetic ingredients and their safety evaluation by the SCCNFP. SCCNFP/0690/03 Final 1–102
Thomssen EG (2006) Modern cosmetics. Universal Publishing Corporation, Bombay, 101
Yamaguchi M, Tahara Y, Teruhiko M et al (2009) Comparison of cathepsin l activity in cheek and forearm stratum corneum in young female adults. Skin Res Technol 15:370–375
Sayre RM, Agin PP, Levee GJ et al (1979) Comparison of in vivo and in vitro testing of sunscreening formulas. Photochem Photobiol 29:559–566
Yoon HS, Baik SH, Oh CH (2002) Quantitative measurement of desquamation and skin elasticity in diabetic patients. Skin Res Technol 8:250–254
Khan Y, Talegaonkar A, Zeenat SI et al (2006) Multiple emulsions: an overview. Curr Drug Deliv 3(4):429–443
World Health Organization (WHO) (1998) Quality control methods for medicinal plant materials. WHO, Geneva, pp 1–122
Murray BC, Wickett RR (1996) Sensitivity of Cutometer data to stratum corneum hydration level. A preliminary study. Skin Res Technol 2:167–172
Cevc G, Blume G (1992) Lipid vesicles penetrate into intact skin owing to the transdermal osmotic gradients and hydration force. Biochim Biophys Acta 1104: 226–232
Touitou E, Dayan N, Bergelson L (2000) Ethosomes-novel vesicular carriers for enhanced delivery: characterization and skin penetration properties. J Control Rel (65)3: 403-418
Acknowledgements
Author is thankful to the student Chanchal Deep Kaur for his assistance during formatting the work.
Author information
Authors and Affiliations
Corresponding author
Editor information
Editors and Affiliations
Rights and permissions
Copyright information
© 2012 Springer-Verlag Berlin Heidelberg
About this chapter
Cite this chapter
Saraf, S. (2012). Formulating Moisturizers Using Natural Raw Materials. In: Lodén, M., Maibach, H. (eds) Treatment of Dry Skin Syndrome. Springer, Berlin, Heidelberg. https://doi.org/10.1007/978-3-642-27606-4_25
Download citation
DOI: https://doi.org/10.1007/978-3-642-27606-4_25
Published:
Publisher Name: Springer, Berlin, Heidelberg
Print ISBN: 978-3-642-27605-7
Online ISBN: 978-3-642-27606-4
eBook Packages: MedicineMedicine (R0)