Skip to main content

Faces of Masculinity: Shaving Practices and Popular Exhibitions of ‘Hairy Wonders’ in Early Twentieth-Century Prague

  • Chapter
  • First Online:
Beauty and the Norm

Part of the book series: Palgrave Studies in Globalization and Embodiment ((PSGE))

  • 1377 Accesses

Abstract

This chapter examines the historical dynamics of normative hegemonic masculinity in relation to the management of a clean respectable appearance, namely the male beard. The author suggests that the heightened anxiety about beards and shaving in turn-of-the-century Bohemia is to be understood in the three interrelated contexts of the political and national struggles of the time, the gradual medicalization of personal appearance and the emerging market for beauty products. The figure of ‘Lionel’, a popular ‘hairy freak’ in early twentieth-century curiosity exhibitions in Prague, embodied the uncertainties about the normative masculinity of the time and pointed to a general insecurity surrounding male gender performance.

The research on which this chapter is based was supported by an SVV grant, no. 260 468, ‘Imagining “the Other”: collective representations and politics of exclusion in Czech lands after 1750’ at the Faculty of Humanities, Charles University in 2017.

This is a preview of subscription content, log in via an institution to check access.

Access this chapter

eBook
USD 19.99
Price excludes VAT (USA)
  • Available as EPUB and PDF
  • Read on any device
  • Instant download
  • Own it forever
Softcover Book
USD 27.99
Price excludes VAT (USA)
  • Compact, lightweight edition
  • Dispatched in 3 to 5 business days
  • Free shipping worldwide - see info
Hardcover Book
USD 129.99
Price excludes VAT (USA)
  • Durable hardcover edition
  • Dispatched in 3 to 5 business days
  • Free shipping worldwide - see info

Tax calculation will be finalised at checkout

Purchases are for personal use only

Institutional subscriptions

References

  • Butler, Judith. 1993. Bodies That Matter: On the Discursive Limits of Sex. New York and London: Routledge.

    Google Scholar 

  • Chen, Mel Y. 2012. Animacies: Biopolitics, Racial Mattering, and Queer Affect. Durham, NC: Duke University Press.

    Book  Google Scholar 

  • Coleman, Rebecca, and Mónica Moreno Figueroa. 2010. “Past and Future Perfect? Beauty, Affect and Hope.” Journal for Cultural Research 14 (4): 357–73.

    Google Scholar 

  • Connell, Raewyn. 1995. Masculinities. Berkeley: University of California Press.

    Google Scholar 

  • Connell, R. W., and James W. Messerschmidt. 2005. “Hegemonic Masculinity: Rethinking the Concept.” Gender 19 (6): 829–59.

    Google Scholar 

  • Craig, M. L. 2006. “Race, Beauty, and the Tangled Knot of a Guilty Pleasure.” Feminist Theory 7 (2): 159–77.

    Google Scholar 

  • Davis, Lennard J. 1995. Enforcing Normalcy: Disability, Deafness, and the Body. London and New York: Verso.

    Google Scholar 

  • Durbach, Nadja. 2010. Spectacle of Deformity: Freak Shows and Modern British Culture. Berkeley: University of California Press.

    Google Scholar 

  • Filipowicz, Marcin Łukasz, and Alena Zachová. 2009. Rod v memoárech: Případ Hradec Králové. Červený Kostelec: Pavel Mervart.

    Google Scholar 

  • Garland-Thomson, Rosemarie. 1997. Extraordinary Bodies: Figuring Physical Disability in American Culture and Literature. New York: Columbia University Press.

    Google Scholar 

  • Hamlin, Kimberly A. 2011. “The ‘Case of a Bearded Woman’: Hypertrichosis and the Construction of Gender in the Age of Darwin.” American Quarterly 63 (4): 955–81.

    Google Scholar 

  • Herzig, Rebecca M. 2015. Plucked: A History of Hair Removal. New York: New York University Press.

    Google Scholar 

  • Jahn, Jiljí Vratislav. 1861. František Ladislav Rieger: obraz životopisný. Prague: Tiskem a nakl. Antonina Augusty.

    Google Scholar 

  • Jarkovský, Jiří Guth. 1915. Společenský katechismus. Prague: Hejda a Tuček.

    Google Scholar 

  • Judson, Pieter M. 1996. Exclusive Revolutionaries: Liberal Politics, Social Experience, and National Identity in the Austrian Empire, 1848–1914. Ann Arbor: University of Michigan Press.

    Google Scholar 

  • Kimmel, Michael S. 1987. Changing Men: New Directions in Research on Men and Masculinity. Newbury Park, CA: Sage.

    Google Scholar 

  • Kimmel, Michael S., ed. 1995. The Politics of Manhood: Profeminist Men Respond To the Mythopoetic Men’s Movement (And the Mythopoetic Leaders Answer). Philadelphia: Temple University Press; Newbury Park, CA.: Sage.

    Google Scholar 

  • Kimmel, Michael S. 1996. Manhood in America: A Cultural History. New York: Free Press.

    Google Scholar 

  • Kodym, František. 1896. Kniha o slušném chování: Průvodce společností i životem. Prague: František Vlastimil Kodym.

    Google Scholar 

  • Lafferton, Emese. 2007. “The Magyar Moustache: The Faces of Hungarian State Formation, 1867–1918.” Studies in History and Philosophy of Science Part C: Studies in History and Philosophy of Biological and Biomedical Sciences 38 (4): 706–32.

    Google Scholar 

  • Lenderová, Milena. 2012. “Genderové Stereotypy a konstrukt maskulinity ve společenských katechismech.” In Konstrukce maskulinní identity v minulosti a současnosti: Koncepty, metody, perspektivy, edited by Slabáková Radmila et al., 224–40. Prague: Nakladatelství Lidové noviny.

    Google Scholar 

  • Lenderová, Milena, Daniela Tinková, and Vladan Hanulík. 2014. Tělo mezi medicínou a disciplínou. Prague: Nakladatelství Lidové noviny.

    Google Scholar 

  • Machar, Josef Svatopluk. 2013. Z Dějin Vousu. 2. vyd., 1. samost. Prague: Akropolis.

    Google Scholar 

  • Mareš, Jan. 2012. “Český skauting jako důsledek krize maskulinity?” In Konstrukce maskulinní identity v minulosti a současnosti: Koncepty, metody, perspektivy, edited by Radmila Slabáková et al., 194–207. Prague: Nakladatelství Lidové noviny.

    Google Scholar 

  • Maxwell, Alexander. 2015. “The Handsome Man with Hungarian Moustache and Beard: National Moustaches in Habsburg Hungary.” Cultural and Social History 12 (1): 51–76.

    Google Scholar 

  • McKibben, Gordon. 1998. Cutting Edge: Gillette’s Journey to Global Leadership. Boston, MA: Harvard Business School Press.

    Google Scholar 

  • Mosse, George L. 1998. The Image of Man/The Creation of Modern Masculinity. Oxford: Oxford University Press.

    Google Scholar 

  • Oldstone-Moore, Christopher. 2005. “The Beard Movement in Victorian Britain.” Victorian Studies 48 (1): 7–34.

    Google Scholar 

  • Oldstone-Moore, Christopher. 2016. Of Beards and Men: The Revealing History of Facial Hair. Chicago: The University of Chicago Press.

    Google Scholar 

  • Porter, Roy. 1997. The Greatest Benefit to Mankind: A Medical History of Humanity. New York: W. W. Norton.

    Google Scholar 

  • Strobach, Vít. 2015. Židé: Národ, rasa, třída: Sociální hnutí a ‘židovská Otázka’ v českých zemích 1861–1921. Knižnice Dějin a Současnosti. Prague: Nakladatelství Lidové noviny, s.r.o.

    Google Scholar 

  • Tapley, Heather. 2014. “The Making of Hobo Masculinities.” Canadian Review of American Studies 44 (1): 25–43.

    Google Scholar 

  • Tosh, Peter. 1994. “What Should Historians Do with Masculinity? Reflections on Nineteenth-Century Britain.” History Workshop Journal 38 (1): 179–202.

    Google Scholar 

  • Tosh, John. 2005. Manliness and Masculinities in Nineteenth-Century Britain: Essays on Gender, Family, and Empire. New York: Pearson Longman.

    Google Scholar 

  • Tromp, Marlene. 2008. Victorian Freaks: The Social Context of Freakery in Britain. Columbus: Ohio State University Press.

    Google Scholar 

  • Urban, Otto. 1978. Kapitalismus a česká společnost: K otázkám formování české společnosti v 19. Století. Prague: Svoboda.

    Google Scholar 

  • Viták, Antonín Konstantin. 1885. O obcování s lidmi. Nový průvodce dobrou společností. Díl I. Kniha pravidel pro cvik dobrých a jemných mravů, společenských vtipův a domácích povinností. Na základě díla šlechtičny F. Hohenhausenové vzdělal a pořekadly, příslovými a výroky čelnějších básníkův a spisovatelů českých valně rozšířil Ant. Konstantin Viták, gram. učitel a redaktor. Prague: Fr. A. Urbánek.

    Google Scholar 

  • Walton, Susan. 2008. “From Squalid Impropriety to Manly Respectability: The Revival of Beards, Moustaches and Martial Values in the 1850s in England.” Nineteenth-Century Contexts 30 (3): 229–45.

    Google Scholar 

Download references

Author information

Authors and Affiliations

Authors

Editor information

Editors and Affiliations

Rights and permissions

Reprints and permissions

Copyright information

© 2019 The Author(s)

About this chapter

Check for updates. Verify currency and authenticity via CrossMark

Cite this chapter

Herza, F. (2019). Faces of Masculinity: Shaving Practices and Popular Exhibitions of ‘Hairy Wonders’ in Early Twentieth-Century Prague. In: Liebelt, C., Böllinger, S., Vierke, U. (eds) Beauty and the Norm. Palgrave Studies in Globalization and Embodiment. Palgrave Macmillan, Cham. https://doi.org/10.1007/978-3-319-91174-8_2

Download citation

  • DOI: https://doi.org/10.1007/978-3-319-91174-8_2

  • Published:

  • Publisher Name: Palgrave Macmillan, Cham

  • Print ISBN: 978-3-319-91173-1

  • Online ISBN: 978-3-319-91174-8

  • eBook Packages: Social SciencesSocial Sciences (R0)

Publish with us

Policies and ethics