Skip to main content

Sustainable Innovation in the Brazilian Textile Industry

  • Chapter
  • First Online:
Corporate Social Responsibility in Brazil

Abstract

This article deals with the identification of factors which influence the development of sustainable innovations and how these factors can be identified in the Brazilian textile industry. For this, a case study of three companies in the textile sector (Yin, Case study research: Design and methods, Sage, Thousand Oaks, CA, 2013), which included the conducting semi-structured interviews with three executives of companies operating in the market studied were carried out. The initial goal of the interviews was, first, to identify whether companies conduct or not, sustainable innovation and, if so, to analyze the factors that lead to this kind of innovation (Hall and Vredenburg, MIT Sloan Management Review, 45(1), 61–68, 2003; Bansal, Strategic Management Journal, 26(3), 197–218, 2005; Ottman et al., Environment, 48(5), 22–36, 2006; Hansen et al., International Journal of Innovation Management, 13(4), 683–713, 2009). For the treatment of data, content analysis was used (Ghiglione and Matalon, O inquérito: Teoria e Prática, Celta Editora, Oeiras, 1997; Bardin, Análise de Conteúdo, Editora Edições 70, Lisboa, 2008), and the result revealed that: factors, such as, fines, penalties and media attention put pressure on organizations to achieve sustainable innovation in search of a better image among its stakeholders. However, some of the Brazilian market factors, such as, organizational slack and capital resources are not as important, nevertheless, can be limitations for companies being able to achieve higher level of service and differentiation in their product range in the pursuit of sustainable innovation. Thus, the textile companies seek to take advantage of the opportunities inherent in these factors to aggregate value to its final product and production process, making it acknowledged in society and, as possible, economically more profitable.

This is a preview of subscription content, log in via an institution to check access.

Access this chapter

eBook
USD 16.99
Price excludes VAT (USA)
  • Available as EPUB and PDF
  • Read on any device
  • Instant download
  • Own it forever
Softcover Book
USD 109.99
Price excludes VAT (USA)
  • Compact, lightweight edition
  • Dispatched in 3 to 5 business days
  • Free shipping worldwide - see info
Hardcover Book
USD 109.99
Price excludes VAT (USA)
  • Durable hardcover edition
  • Dispatched in 3 to 5 business days
  • Free shipping worldwide - see info

Tax calculation will be finalised at checkout

Purchases are for personal use only

Institutional subscriptions

Notes

  1. 1.

    Clothing + socks and accessories + bed, table and bath.

  2. 2.

    There are, in Brazil, thousands of clandestine textile sweatshops, in which under-paid employees work long and exhausting hours in dreadful conditions to mass produce garments for the country’s clothing industry. In São Paulo, the biggest Brazilian city, there is a bustling textile sector known as Bras that begun with the arrival of Jewish immigrants in the early 1900s. Today, this region is predominantly run by Koreans, though there is a notable presence of Bolivians, both legal and clandestine, some of whom are living in conditions similar to modern-day slavery. The clothes that are produced are sold to wholesalers all over the country, feeding the fifth biggest market in the world, at highly competitive prices. But to keep the prices low they outsource and the working conditions are degrading. This phenomenon goes back to the 1990s in which the Bolivians perpetuated a system of symbolic violence on to their fellow countrymen and women. The wages of Bolivian workers are standardised in a quarter of Brazilian’s minimum salary. Thousands of Bolivians prefer to settle for long arduous days, sitting at a machine in the same position, sleeping in the premises where they work. Work begins even before they eat breakfast. Besides this, they face the uncertainty of unemployment back in their home country. There are 300,000 Bolivians in São Paulo, 90% of them, according to the Labour Ministry, work in the textile industry. It is imprecise to know how many of them are modern-day slaves (Houghton 2016).

  3. 3.

    “Some firms have tended to overemphasize short-term gains by concentrating more on quarterly results than the foundation for long-term success. Such an obsession with short-term profits is contrary to the spirit of sustainability, which requires the firm to meet the needs of its stakeholders in the future as well as today” (Dyllick and Hockerts 2002, p.132).

  4. 4.

    “In order to achieve long-term sustainability, businesses will have to manage not only economic capital, but also their natural capital and their social capital” (Dyllick and Hockerts 2002, p.132).

  5. 5.

    In his article, Lozano (2009) draws attention to the fact that Corporate Sustainability (CS) should not be confused with the term Sustainable Corporation (SC). SC “refers to sustaining practices and corporations that are simply long-lived (Hill and Jones 2001; Afuah 2003), or with the term ‘viable’, but not necessarily the integration of sustainable development principles.”

References

  • ABIT Associação Brasileira de Indústrias Têxtil e Confecção (2017). Perfil do Setor. Available in: http://www.abit.org.br/cont/perfil-do-setor

  • Afuah, A. (2003). Innovation management: Strategies, implementation, and profits (2nd ed.). New York: Oxford University Press.

    Google Scholar 

  • Allwood, J. M., Laursen, S. E., Russell, S. N., Malvido de Rodriguez, C., & Bocken, N. M. P. (2008). An approach to scenario analysis of the sustainability of an industrial sector applied to clothing and textile in the UK. Journal of Cleaner Production, 16, 1234–1246.

    Article  Google Scholar 

  • Amini, M., & Bienstock, C. C. (2014). Corporate sustainability: An integrative definition and framework to evaluate corporate practice and guide academic research. Journal of Cleaner Production, 76, 12–19. https://doi.org/10.1016/j.jclepro.2014.02.016

    Article  Google Scholar 

  • Arundel, A., & Kemp, R. (2009). Measuring eco-innovation. Working Paper Series. United Nations University. Available in: http://collections.unu.edu/eserv/UNU:324/wp2009-017.pdf

  • Babiak, K., & Trendafilova, S. (2011). CSR and environmental responsibility: Motives and pressures to adopt green management practices. Corporate Social Responsibility and Environmental Management, 18, 11–24. https://doi.org/10.1002/csr.229

    Article  Google Scholar 

  • Bansal, P. (2005). Evolving sustainably: A longitudinal study of corporate sustainable development. Strategic Management Journal, 26(3), 197–218.

    Article  Google Scholar 

  • Bansal, P., & Hoffman, A. J. (Eds.). (2012). The Oxford handbook of business and the natural environment. Oxford: Oxford University Press.

    Google Scholar 

  • Barbieri, J. C., & Simantob, M. A. (orgs.). (2007). Organizações Inovadoras Sustentáveis. São Paulo: Atlas.

    Google Scholar 

  • Barbieri, J. C. (1997). A Contribuição da Área Produtiva no Processo de Inovações Tecnológicas. Revista de Administração de Empresas, 37(1), 66–77.

    Article  Google Scholar 

  • Barbieri, J. C., Vasconcelos, I. F. G., Andreasse, T., & Vasconcelos, F. C. (2011). Inovação e Sustentabilidade: Novos Modelos e Proposições. Revista de Administração de Empresas, 50(2), 146–154.

    Article  Google Scholar 

  • Bardin, L. (2008). Análise de Conteúdo (4a ed.). Lisboa: Editora Edições 70.

    Google Scholar 

  • Bellen, H. M. V. (2005). Indicadores de sustentabilidade: uma análise comparativa (1a ed.). Rio de Janeiro: Editora FGV.

    Google Scholar 

  • Benn, S., Dunphy, D., & Griffiths, A. (2006). Enabling change for corporate sustainability: An integrated perspective. Australasian Journal of Environmental Management, 13(3), 156–165. https://doi.org/10.1080/14486563.2006.9725129

    Article  Google Scholar 

  • Bourgeois, L. J., III. (1981). On the measurement of organizational slack. Academy of Management Review, 6(1), 29–39.

    Article  Google Scholar 

  • Bowman, C., & Ambrosini, V. (2000). Value creation versus value capture: Towards a coherent definition of value in strategy. British Journal Strategy, 11(1), 1–15.

    Google Scholar 

  • Buechler, S. (2004). Sweating it in the Brazilian garment industry: Korean and Bolivian immigrants and global economic forces in Sao Paulo. Latin American Perspectives, 31(3), 99–119.

    Article  Google Scholar 

  • Carroll, A. (1979). Corporate social responsibility: Evolution of a definitional construct. Business Society, 38(3), 268–295.

    Article  Google Scholar 

  • Chang, S. J. (2016). Sustainable evolution for global business: A synthetic review of the literature. Journal of Management and Sustainability, 6(1), 1–23. https://doi.org/10.5539/jms.v6n1p1

    Article  Google Scholar 

  • Cheng, J., & Kesner, I. F. (1997). Organizational slack and response to environmental shifts: The impact of resource allocation patterns. Journal of Management, 23(1), 1–18. https://doi.org/10.1016/S0149-2063(97)90003-9

    Article  Google Scholar 

  • Curi, D. (Org.). (2011). Gestão Ambiental. São Paulo: Editora Pearson.

    Google Scholar 

  • Curi, D. P. (2007). Orientação para o mercado: a relação entre a orientação para a tecnologia e o marketing relacional. Doctoral dissertation, Universidade de São Paulo. Available in: http://www.teses.usp.br/teses/disponiveis/3/3136/tde-09012008-151828/en.php

  • Dimaggio, P. J., & Powell, W. W. (1983). A gaiola de ferro revisitada: isomorfismo institucional e racionalidade coletiva nos campos organizacionais. Revista Administração de Empresa, 45(2), 74–89.

    Google Scholar 

  • Dyllick, T., & Hockerts, K. (2002). Beyond the business case for corporate sustainability. Business Strategy & The Environment, 11(2), 130–141. https://doi.org/10.1002/bse.323

    Article  Google Scholar 

  • Elkington, J. (2002). Cannibals with forks. Oxford: Capstone.

    Google Scholar 

  • Fletcher, K., & Grase, L. (2011). Moda & Sustentabilidade: design para mudança. São Paulo: Editora Senac São Paulo.

    Google Scholar 

  • Freeman, C. (1995). The ‘National system of innovation’ in historical perspective. Cambridge Journal of Economics, 9(1), 5–24.

    Google Scholar 

  • Freeman, R. E. (1994). The politics of stakeholder theory: Some future directions. Business Ethics Quarterly, 4(4), 409–421.

    Article  Google Scholar 

  • Gardiner, J. P., & Rothwell, R. (1985). Tough customers: Good designs. Design Studies, 6(1), 7–17.

    Article  Google Scholar 

  • Gereffi, G. (2002, April 4–7). Outsourcing and changing patterns of international competition in the apparel commodity chain. Paper presented at the conference on “Responding to globalization: societies, groups, and individuals,” Hotel Boulderado, Boulder, CO. Available in: http://www.colorado.edu/ibs/intdev/gadconf/papers/gereffi.html

  • Ghiglione, R., & Matalon, B. (1997). O inquérito: Teoria e Prática. Oeiras: Celta Editora.

    Google Scholar 

  • Gimenez, C., Sierra, V., & Rodon, J. (2012). Sustainable operations: Their impact on the triple bottom line. International Journal of Production Economics, 140(1), 149–159. https://doi.org/10.1016/j.ijpe.2012.01.035

    Article  Google Scholar 

  • Haffar, M., & Searcy, C. (2017). Classification of trade-offs encountered in the practice of corporate sustainability. Journal of Business Ethics, 140(3), 495–522. https://doi.org/10.1007/s10551-015-2678-1

    Article  Google Scholar 

  • Hall, J., & Vredenburg, H. (2003). The challenges of innovating for sustainable development. MIT Sloan Management Review, 45(1), 61–68.

    Google Scholar 

  • Hansen, E., Grosse-Dinker, F., & Reichwald, R. (2009). Sustainability innovation cube: A framework to evaluate sustainability oriented innovations. International Journal of Innovation Management, 13(4), 683–713.

    Article  Google Scholar 

  • Henry, P., & Moscovici, S. (1968). Problèmes de l’analyse de contenu. Langages, 11, 36–60.

    Article  Google Scholar 

  • Hill, C. W., & Jones, G. R. (2001). Strategic management: An integrated approach (5th ed.). Boston, MA: Houghton Mifflin.

    Google Scholar 

  • Hiratuka, C., Viana, C., Araújo, R. D., Mello, C. H., & Ulharuzo, C.G. (2008). Relatório de Acompanhamento Setorial: Têxtil e Confecção,1. Unicamp.

    Google Scholar 

  • Houghton, L. (2016, December 29). Brazil: Slaves To Fashion Investigating allegations of slave labour and exploitation in the garment industry. Aljazeera. Available in: http://www.aljazeera.com/programmes/latin-america-investigates/2016/12/brazil-slaves-fashion-161229063654192.html

  • Keeble, J. J., Topiol, S., & Berkeley, S. (2003). Using indicators to measure sustainability performance at a corporate and project level. Journal of Business Ethics, 44(2), 149–158.

    Article  Google Scholar 

  • Khan, M., Serafeim, G., & Yoon, A. (2016). Corporate sustainability: First evidence on materiality. Accounting Review, 91(6), 1697–1724. https://doi.org/10.2308/accr-51383

    Article  Google Scholar 

  • Klassen, R. D., & Whybark, D. C. (1999). Environmental management in operations: The selection of environmental technologies. Decision Sciences, 30(3), 601–631. https://doi.org/10.1111/j.1540-5915.1999.tb00900.x

    Article  Google Scholar 

  • Kramer, M. R., & Porter, M. (2011). Creating shared value. Harvard Business Review, 89(1/2), 62–77.

    Google Scholar 

  • Lozano R. (2009). Orchestrating organisational change for corporate sustainability. Strategies to overcome resistance to change and to facilitate institutionalization. Doctoral thesis, Cardiff University, Cardiff, 351 p.

    Google Scholar 

  • Lozano, R. (2011). Addressing stakeholders and better contributing to sustainability through game theory. Journal of Corporate Citizenship, 43, 45–62.

    Article  Google Scholar 

  • Lozano, R. (2013). Are companies planning their organizational changes for corporate sustainability? An analysis of three case studies on resistance to change and their strategies to overcome it. Corporate Social Responsibility and Environmental Management, 20(5), 275–295.

    Article  Google Scholar 

  • Lozano, R. (2015). A holistic perspective on corporate sustainability drivers. Corporate Social Responsibility & Environmental Management, 22(1), 32–44. https://doi.org/10.1002/csr.1325

    Article  Google Scholar 

  • Muthu, S. S. (Ed.). (2015). Roadmap to sustainable textiles and clothing: Regulatory aspects and sustainability standards of textile and the clothing and supply chain. Singapore: Springer.

    Google Scholar 

  • Niinimäki, K., & Hassi, L. (2011). Emerging design strategies in sustainable production and consumption of textiles and clothing. Journal of Cleaner Production, 19, 1876–1883.

    Google Scholar 

  • Nonaka, I., & Takeuchi, H. (1995). The knowledge-creating company: How Japanese companies create the dynamics of innovation. Oxford: Oxford University Press.

    Google Scholar 

  • Ottman, J. A., Stafford, E. R., & Man, C. L. (2006). Avoiding green marketing myopia (Cover story). Environment, 48(5), 22–36.

    Google Scholar 

  • Pavitt, K. (1984). Sectoral patterns of technical change: Towards a taxonomy and a theory. Research Policy, 13(6), 343–373.

    Article  Google Scholar 

  • Pavitt, K. (2000). Technology, management and systems of innovation. Cheltenham: Edward Elgar.

    Google Scholar 

  • Pavitt, K., Robson, M., & Townsend, J. (1989). Technological accumulation, diversification and organisation in UK companies, 1945–83. Management Science, 35, 81–99.

    Article  Google Scholar 

  • Porter, M. E. (1985). Competitive advantage. New York: The Free Press.

    Google Scholar 

  • Possolli, G. E. (2011). Gestão da Inovação e do Conhecimento. Curitiba: Ibpex.

    Google Scholar 

  • Prochnik, V. (2003). A cadeia têxtil/confecções perante os desafios da Alca e do acordo comercial com a União Europeia. Revista de Economia, 4(1), 53–83.

    Google Scholar 

  • Rech, S., & Oliveira, T. (2013). Sustentabilidade e inovações tecnológicas na indústria da moda. Documento de Estudo. Available at: http://www.ceart.udesc.br/wp-content/uploads/Tayara-Oliveira-Profa.-Sandra-Rech.pdf

  • Refosco, E., Mazzotti, K., Sotoriva, M., & Broega, A. (2011, 12 a 14 de setembro). O novo consumidor de moda e a Sustentabilidade. VII Colóquio de Moda.

    Google Scholar 

  • Rocha, M., Searcy, C., & Karapetrovic, S. (2007). Integrating sustainable development into existing management systems. Total Quality Management & Business Excellence, 18(1/2), 83–92. https://doi.org/10.1080/14783360601051594

    Article  Google Scholar 

  • Savitz, A. (2013). The triple bottom line: How today’s best-run companies are achieving economic, social and environmental success-and how you can too. Hoboken: Wiley.

    Google Scholar 

  • Savitz, A. W., & Weber, K. (2006). The triple bottom line: How today’s best-run companies are achieving. San Francisco: Wiley.

    Google Scholar 

  • Schiuma, G. (2013). Knowledge, learning, and innovation: Research and perspectives. Journal of Knowledge Management, 17(4), 495–510. https://doi.org/10.1108/jkm-04-2013-0141

    Article  Google Scholar 

  • Shambu, G. (2015). Using the fast fashion supply chain to teach sustainability. Business Education Innovation Journal, 7(1), 62–67.

    Google Scholar 

  • Shen, L., Worrell, E., & Patel, M. K. (2010). Environmental impact assessment of man-made cellulose fibres. Resources, Conservation and Recycling, 55(2), 260–274.

    Article  Google Scholar 

  • Simões, C., & Sebastiani, R. (2017). The nature of the relationship between corporate identity and corporate sustainability: Evidence from the retail industry. Business Ethics Quarterly, 27(3), 423–453. https://doi.org/10.1017/beq.2017.15

    Article  Google Scholar 

  • Tidd, J., Bessant, J. R., & Pavitt, K. (2005). Managing innovation – integrating technological, market and organizational change (3rd ed.). Chichester: Wiley.

    Google Scholar 

  • Vallaster, C., Lindgreen, A., & Maon, F. (2012). Strategically leveraging corporate social responsibility: A corporate branding perspective. California Management Review, 54(3), 34–60.

    Article  Google Scholar 

  • WCED. (1987). Our common future, world commission for the environment and development. Oxford: Oxford University Press.

    Google Scholar 

  • Welford, R. (2013). Hijacking environmentalism: Corporate responses to sustainable development. Abington: Routledge.

    Book  Google Scholar 

  • Yin, R. K. (2013). Case study research: Design and methods (5th ed.). Thousand Oaks, CA: Sage.

    Google Scholar 

Download references

Author information

Authors and Affiliations

Authors

Editor information

Editors and Affiliations

Rights and permissions

Reprints and permissions

Copyright information

© 2019 Springer International Publishing AG, part of Springer Nature

About this chapter

Check for updates. Verify currency and authenticity via CrossMark

Cite this chapter

Frigelg, E.L.C., Pereira, D.C., Curi, R.P. (2019). Sustainable Innovation in the Brazilian Textile Industry. In: Stehr, C., Dziatzko, N., Struve, F. (eds) Corporate Social Responsibility in Brazil. CSR, Sustainability, Ethics & Governance. Springer, Cham. https://doi.org/10.1007/978-3-319-90605-8_18

Download citation

Publish with us

Policies and ethics