Dedicated Follower of Fashion

Secondhand Vintage Fashion, Celebrity Culture and Fashion Svengalis: Strategies for Branding and Development
Chapter
Part of the Palgrave Advances in Luxury book series (PAAL)

Abstract

Vintage clothing has been popularised through contemporary culture as media and celebrated icons dress in attire that reflects their identity and sense of self. This is illustrated in the take-up of secondhand vintage clothing by popular media stars including television presenters, actors, singers and musicians, with the likes of Julia Roberts, Renee Zellweger, Rihanna and Kirstie Allsopp, all acting as devotees of the vintage fashion genre. Whilst many consumers attempt to replicate the appearance of their idols, this has subsequently resulted in developing demand for the secondhand clothing. Indeed, many outlets across the globe focussing specifically on the vintage and secondhand market have seen a growth in both patronage and sales. Cities/locations have become synonymous with this market where demand from consumer savvy individuals is high, with emphasis upon the consumption of vintage apparel that is somewhat different yet reassuringly endorsed by the great and the good of stage and screen. We must also not forget how the chronology of time and its relationship with place and fashion has impacted greatly on society, with seminal time zones of the twentieth century acting as timely reminders of opulence, grace and innovation in design. The chapter reviews how popular culture has positioned secondhand and luxury vintage fashion as a reputable marketplace. The chapter presents two case studies: Affleck’s Palace, Manchester, and Camden Market, London. Both cases illustrate how urban modernity associated with place and the specific locations where secondhand and vintage emporiums are based has reinvigorated those cities. The chapter identifies those strategies that have been successful in establishing these places as key providers of secondhand vintage fashion and use this as a platform to rejuvenate and enhance other locations.

Keywords

Manchester London Vintage Popular culture Case study Popular music 

References

  1. Botticello, J. (2014). Fashioning authentic selves: Second-hand clothing and the materialization of enduring values. Critical Studies in Fashion & Beauty, 5(1), 111–124.CrossRefGoogle Scholar
  2. Camdenmarket.com. (2017). Camden Market. Retrieved May 31, 2017, from https://www.camdenmarket.com.
  3. Cervellon, M.-C., Carey, L., & Harms, T. (2012). Something old, something used: Determinants of women’s purchase of vintage fashion vs second-hand fashion. International Journal of Retail and Distribution Management, 40(12), 956–974.CrossRefGoogle Scholar
  4. Choy, K. L., et al. (2009). A RFID-case-based sample management system for fashion product development. Engineering Applications of Artificial Intelligence, 22(6), 882–896.Google Scholar
  5. Clark, H. (2008). Slow+fashion—An oxymoron or a promise for the future…? Fashion Theory, 12(4), 427–446.CrossRefGoogle Scholar
  6. Davies, C. (2013). Camden Lock and the market. London: Frances Lincoln.Google Scholar
  7. DeLong, M., Helnemann, B., & Relley, K. (2005). Hooked on vintage. Fashion Theory, 9(1), 23–42.CrossRefGoogle Scholar
  8. Durkheim, E. (2001). The elementary forms of religious life. Oxford: Oxford University press. (original work published in 1912).Google Scholar
  9. Ferraro, C., Sands, S., & Brace-Govan, J. (2016). The role of fashionability in second-hand shopping motivations. Journal of Retailing and Consumer Services, 32(September), 262–268.Google Scholar
  10. Fischer, N. L. (2015). Vintage, the first 40 years: The emergence and persistence of vintage style in the United States. Culture Unbound, 7, 45–56.Google Scholar
  11. Fletcher, K., & Tham, M. (Eds.). (2015). Routledge handbook of sustainability and fashion. London: Routledge.Google Scholar
  12. Gregson, N., Brooks, K., & Crewe, L. (2001), cited from Veenstra, A., & Kuipers, G. (2013). It is not old-fashioned, it is vintage, vintage fashion and the complexities of 21st century consumption practices. Sociology Compass, 7(5), 355–365.Google Scholar
  13. Londontopia. (2017). Camden Lock: 10 interesting facts and figures about Camden Market you might not know. Retrieved May 31, 2017, from http://londontopia.net/site-news/featured/camden-lock-10-interesting-facts-figures-camden-market-might-know/.
  14. Malem, W. (2008). Fashion designers as business: London. Journal of Fashion Marketing and Management, 12(3), 398–414.Google Scholar
  15. McNeill, L., & Moore, R. (2015). Sustainable fashion consumption and the fast fashion conundrum: Fashionable consumers and attitudes to sustainability in clothing choice. International Journal of Consumer Studies, 39, 212–222.CrossRefGoogle Scholar
  16. McRobbie, A. (1989). Zoot suits and second-hand dresses. London: HarperCollins.Google Scholar
  17. Mhango, M., & Niehm, L. (2005). The second-hand clothing distribution channel: Opportunities for retail entrepreneurs in Malawi. Journal of Fashion Marketing and Management, 9(3), 342–356.CrossRefGoogle Scholar
  18. Peters, L. (2014). Performing vintage: The cultivation and dissemination of vintage sensibilities at the Brooklyn Flea. Canadian Review of American Studies, 44(2), 214–239.CrossRefGoogle Scholar
  19. Shilling, C., & Mellor, P. (1998). Durkheim, morality and modernity: Collective effervescence, homo duplex and the sources of moral action. The British Journal of Sociology, 49(2), 193–209.CrossRefGoogle Scholar
  20. The Guardian. (2016). Uncool Camden: Will redevelopment ruin London’s legendary market? Retrieved May 31, 2017, from https://www.theguardian.com/cities/2016/nov/15/uncool-camden-market-london-redevelopment-market-tech.
  21. The Independent. (2013). Camden Market stall holders in ‘state of fear’ over development plans. Retrieved May 31, 2017, from http://www.independent.co.uk/news/business/news/camden-market-stall-holders-in-state-of-fear-over-development-plans-9936681.html.
  22. Veenstra, A., & Kuipers, G. (2013). It is not old-fashioned, it is vintage, vintage fashion and the complexities of 21st century consumption practices. Sociology Compass, 7(5), 355–365.CrossRefGoogle Scholar
  23. Woods, V. (2002). It’s enough to make you blow your budget. Retrieved May 02, 2017, from http://www.telegraph.co.uk/news/uknews/1413323/Its-enough-to-make-you-blow-your-budget.html.

Copyright information

© The Author(s) 2018

Authors and Affiliations

  1. 1.University of SalfordSalfordUK
  2. 2.University of WolverhamptonWolverhamptonUK

Personalised recommendations