Skip to main content

Large-Wave Simulation of Breaking Waves Over a Beach

  • Conference paper
  • First Online:
Direct and Large-Eddy Simulation X

Part of the book series: ERCOFTAC Series ((ERCO,volume 24))

  • 2020 Accesses

Abstract

Wave transformation and breaking on a beach are associated with important coastal processes like wave-generated currents, sediment transport and coastal erosion.

This is a preview of subscription content, log in via an institution to check access.

Access this chapter

Chapter
USD 29.95
Price excludes VAT (USA)
  • Available as PDF
  • Read on any device
  • Instant download
  • Own it forever
eBook
USD 169.00
Price excludes VAT (USA)
  • Available as EPUB and PDF
  • Read on any device
  • Instant download
  • Own it forever
Softcover Book
USD 219.99
Price excludes VAT (USA)
  • Compact, lightweight edition
  • Dispatched in 3 to 5 business days
  • Free shipping worldwide - see info
Hardcover Book
USD 219.99
Price excludes VAT (USA)
  • Durable hardcover edition
  • Dispatched in 3 to 5 business days
  • Free shipping worldwide - see info

Tax calculation will be finalised at checkout

Purchases are for personal use only

Institutional subscriptions

References

  1. Bradford, S.F.: Numerical simulation of surf zone dynamics. J. Waterw Port Coast. Ocean Eng. 126(1), 1–13 (2000)

    Article  Google Scholar 

  2. Brocchini, M., Peregrine, D.H.: The dynamics of strong turbulence at free surfaces. Part 1. Description. J. Fluid Mech. 449, 225–254 (2001)

    Article  MathSciNet  MATH  Google Scholar 

  3. Brocchini, M., Peregrine, D.H.: The dynamics of strong turbulence at free surfaces. Part 2. Free-surface boundary conditions. J. Fluid Mech. 449, 255–290 (2001)

    Article  MathSciNet  MATH  Google Scholar 

  4. Christensen, E.D.: Large eddy simulation of spilling and plunging breakers. Coast. Eng. 53(5–6), 463–485 (2006)

    Article  Google Scholar 

  5. Christensen, E.D., Deigaard, R.: Large eddy simulation of breaking waves. Coast. Eng. 42(1), 53–86 (2001)

    Article  Google Scholar 

  6. Dimakopoulos, A.S., Dimas, A.A.: Large-wave simulation of three-dimensional, cross-shore and oblique, spilling breaking on constant slope beach. Coast. Eng. 58(8), 790–801 (2011)

    Article  Google Scholar 

  7. Dimas, A.A., Fialkowski, L.T.: Large-wave simulation (LWS) of free-surface flows developing weak spilling breaking waves. J. Comput. Phys. 159(2), 172–196 (2000)

    Article  MATH  Google Scholar 

  8. Kolokythas, G.A., Dimas, A.A.: Numerical simulation of oblique wave breaking and wave-induced currents in the surf zone. In: Proceedings 33rd International Conference Offshore Mechanics and Arctic Engineering, OMAE2014-24125, pp. 1–9, San Francisco, USA (2014)

    Google Scholar 

  9. Lin, P., Liu, P.L.-F.: A numerical study of breaking waves in the surf zone. J. Fluid Mech. 359, 239–264 (1998)

    Article  MATH  Google Scholar 

  10. Madsen, P.A., Sorensen, O.R., Schäffer, H.A.: Surf zone dynamics simulated by a Boussinesq type model. Part I. Model description and cross-shore motion of regular waves. Coast. Eng. 32(4), 255–287 (1997)

    Article  Google Scholar 

  11. Musumeci, R.E., Svendsen, I.A., Veeramony, J.: The flow in the surf zone: a fully nonlinear Boussinesq-type of approach. Coast. Eng. 52(7), 565–598 (2005)

    Article  Google Scholar 

  12. Ting, F.C.K., Kirby, J.T.: Observation of undertow and turbulence in a laboratory surf zone. Coast. Eng. 24(1–2), 51–80 (1994)

    Article  Google Scholar 

  13. Ting, F.C.K., Kirby, J.T.: Dynamics of surf-zone turbulence in a spilling breaker. Coast. Eng. 27(3–4), 131–160 (1996)

    Article  Google Scholar 

  14. Torres-Freyermuth, A., Losada, I.J., Lara, J.L.: Modeling of surf zone processes on a natural beach using Reynolds-averaged Navier-Stokes equations. J. Geophys. Res. 112, C09014 (2007)

    Article  Google Scholar 

  15. Watanabe, Y., Saeki, H., Hosking, R.J.: Three-dimensional vortex structures under breaking waves. J. Fluid Mech. 545, 291–328 (2005)

    Article  MathSciNet  MATH  Google Scholar 

Download references

Acknowledgements

This paper is part of the research project ARISTEIA I - 1718, implemented within the framework of the program Education and Lifelong Learning, and co-financed by the European Union (European Social Fund) and Hellenic Republic funds.

Author information

Authors and Affiliations

Authors

Corresponding author

Correspondence to A. A. Dimas .

Editor information

Editors and Affiliations

Rights and permissions

Reprints and permissions

Copyright information

© 2018 Springer International Publishing AG

About this paper

Cite this paper

Dimas, A.A., Dimakopoulos, A.S., Kolokythas, G.A. (2018). Large-Wave Simulation of Breaking Waves Over a Beach. In: Grigoriadis, D., Geurts, B., Kuerten, H., Fröhlich, J., Armenio, V. (eds) Direct and Large-Eddy Simulation X. ERCOFTAC Series, vol 24. Springer, Cham. https://doi.org/10.1007/978-3-319-63212-4_63

Download citation

  • DOI: https://doi.org/10.1007/978-3-319-63212-4_63

  • Published:

  • Publisher Name: Springer, Cham

  • Print ISBN: 978-3-319-63211-7

  • Online ISBN: 978-3-319-63212-4

  • eBook Packages: EngineeringEngineering (R0)

Publish with us

Policies and ethics