Abstract
This chapter provides insights into current environmental trends impacting on the global fashion industry. The rise of secondhand luxury fashion and in particular vintage is examined; this sector having witnessed the largest growth in recent times. Aside from the natural resource issue, there has been an alarming rise in the negative impacts of increased cyclical effects of garment production on the environment. With an increase in pollution and scarcity of resources, it can be argued that fashion firms will need to better understand how to trigger behavioural shifts towards slower consumption and develop new sustainable business models. With secondhand retailing thriving as a business format, this chapter provides a conceptual review of the attitudinal and behavioural motivators towards sustainable consumption for an evolving and significant sector, set within the context of the circular economy.
Access this chapter
Tax calculation will be finalised at checkout
Purchases are for personal use only
References
Ahlert, D., Blut, M., & Evanschitzky, H. (2010). Retailing in the 21st Century – Current Status and Future Evolution of Retail Formats, 2nd ed., Springer Publishing: US.
Annalena (n.d.). “Annalena Couture: Italian style into the heart of London”, Annalena Couture (online), retrieved from: http://www.annalenacouture.london/about-us/, [accessed on: 17/11/2016].
Arnold, C. (2009). Ethical Marketing and the New Consumer. Wiley: Chichester.
Auty, S., & Elliott, R. (1998). Fashion involvement, self-monitoring and the meaning of brands. Journal of Product & Brand Management, 7(2): 110–112.
Baden, S., & Barber, C. (2005). The Impact of the second-hand clothing trade on developing countries. UK: Oxfam.
Banim, M., & Guy, A. (2001). Discontinued Selves: Why Do Women Keep Clothes They No Longer Wear?, in A. Guy, E. Green, & M. Banim (eds) Through The Wardrobe: Women’s Relationships with Their Clothes (pp. 203–223). Berg: Oxford.
Bianchi, C., & Birtwistle, G. (2010). Sell, give away or donate: An exploratory study of fashion clothing disposal behaviour in two countries. The International Review of Retail, Distribution and Consumer Research, 20(3): 353–368.
British Fashion Council (2016), The British Fashion Industry & London Fashion Week Facts & Figures, BFC (online), retrieved from: http://britishfashioncouncil.co.uk/pressreleases/The-British-Fashion-Industry--London-Fashion-Week-Facts--Figures [Accessed 25/01/2017].
British Red Cross (2016), “Vintage clothing and designer charity shops”, British Red Cross, retrieved from: http://www.redcross.org.uk/Get-involved/Our-shops/Our-specialist-shops/Vintage-clothing-and-designer-charity-shop [accessed on: 17/11/2016].
Burns, D. J., & Warren, H. B. (1995) . Need for uniqueness: shopping mall preference and choice activity. International Journal of Retail & Distribution Management, 23(12): 4–12 .
Butler, S. M., & Francis, S. (1997). The effects of environmental attitudes on apparel purchasing behavior. Clothing and Textiles Research Journal, 15(2): 76–85.
Cassidy, T. D., & Bennett, H. R. (2012). The Rise of Vintage Fashion and the Vintage Consumer. Fashion Practice, 4: 2, 239–261.
Cervellon, M.-C., Hjerth, H., Ricard, S., & Carey, L. (2010). Green in fashion? An exploratory study of national differences in consumers concern for eco-fashion, Proceedings of the 9th International Marketing Trends Conference, Marketing Trends Association: Venice.
Cervellon, M. C., & Carey, L. (2011). Consumers’ perceptions of ‘green’: why and how consumers use ecofashion and green beauty products. Critical Issues in Fashion and Beauty, 2(1–2): 77–95.
Cervellon, M.-C., Carey, L., & Harms, T. (2012). Something old, something used. International Journal of Retail & Distribution Management, 40(12): 956–974.
Choi, T. M., & Cheng, T. E. (2015). Sustainable Fashion Supply Chain Management. Springer: New York. Retrieved fro:m http://conlumino.com/?p=1583 [accessed on: 05/11/15].
Conlumino. (2014). UK set to become largest luxury goods market in Europe by 2018. Conlumino. [Online], retrieved at: http://conlumino.com/?p=1583 [accessed on: 20/03/2016].
Cornett, J. E. (2010), “What is considered vintage clothing?”, retrieved from: www.ehow.com/about_6593593_considered-vintage-clothing_.html.
D’Arpizio, C., Levato, F., Zito, D., & De Montolfier, J. (2014). Luxury goods worldwide market study fall-winter 2014. Bain & Company [online], retrieved from: http://www.bain.com/publications/articles/luxury-goods-worldwide-market-study-december-2014.aspx [accessed on: 05/11/15].
DEFRA (Department of Environment Food and Rural Affairs). (2011). Sustainable Clothing Roadmap: Progress Report 2011, DEFRA [online], retrieved from: https://www.gov.uk/government/uploads/system/uploads/attachment_data/file/69299/pb13461-clothing-actionplan-110518.pdf [accessed on: 05/07/2013].
DeLong, M., Heinemann, B., & Reiley, K. (2005). Hooked on vintage. Fashion Theory, 9(1): 23–42.
Eastman, J. K., Goldsmith, R. E., & Flynn, L. R. (1999). Status Consumption in Consumer Behavior: Scale development and validation. Journal of Marketing Theory and Practice, 7(3), 41–52.
Ethical Consumer (2015). UK Ethical Market – Annual Report, Ethical Consumer (online). retrieved from: http://www.ethicalconsumer.org/researchhub/ukethicalmarket.aspx [accessed on: 24/01/2017].
Ethical Fashion Forum (2011). The Market for Ethical and Sustainable Fashion Products. [Online], retrieved from: http://source.ethicalfashionforum.com/assets-uploaded/documents/Market_for_sustainable_fashion_Briefing.pdf [accessed on: 19/03/2016].
Exchange, D. (2016), “Designer Exchange – About us”, Designer Exchange (online), retrieved from: https://uk.designerexchange.com/site/aboutus [accessed on: 17/11/2016].
Fletcher, K. (2013). Sustainable fashion and textiles: design journeys. Routledge: London, UK.
Frick, C. C. (2005). The Florentine Rigattieri: Second hand clothing dealers and the circulation of goods in the Renaissance, in A. Palmer & H. Clark (Eds) Old clothes, new looks: second hand fashion, 13–28, Berg: New York.
Gabrielli, V., Baghi, I., & Codeluppi, V. (2013). Consumption practices of fast fashion products: a consumer-based approach. Journal of Fashion Marketing and Management, 17(2): 206–224.
Gerval, O. (2008). Fashion: Concept to Catwalk. London: Bloomsbury.
Ghosh, A., & Varshney, S. (2013). Luxury goods consumption: a conceptual framework based on literature review, South Asian Journal of Management, 20(2): 146–159.
Gladigau, K. (2008), “Op till you drop: youth, distinction and identity in vintage clothing”, retrieved from: www.tasa.org.au.
Goworek, H., Fisher, T., Cooper, T., Woodward, S., & Hiller, A. (2012). The sustainable clothing market: an evaluation of potential strategies for UK retailers. International Journal of Retail & Distribution Management, 40(12): 935–955.
Gregson, N., & Crewe, L. (2003). Second-hand Cultures. Berg: New York.
Groves, E. (2008). Vintage, green movements spur denim recycling. WWD: Women’s Wear Daily, 196(17): 10.
Guiot, D., & Roux, D. (2010). A second-hand shoppers’ motivation scale: Antecedents, consequences, and implications for retailers. Journal of Retailing, 86(4): 383–399.
Han, Y. J., Nunes, J. C., & Dre`Ze, X. (2010). Signaling status with luxury goods: The role of brand prominence. Journal of Marketing, 74(4): 15–17.
Hansen, K. T. (2000). Salaula: The world of second-hand clothing and Zambia. University of Chicago Press: Chicago, IL.
Hethorn, J., & Ulasewicz, C. (2008). Sustainable fashion: Why now? Fairchild Books: New York.
Hwang, C. L., & Masud, A. S. M. (2012). Multiple objective decision making – methods and applications, Springer Verlag: Berlin.
Jordan, Y., & Simpson, M. N. (2006). Consumer innovativeness among females in specific fashion stores in the Menlyn shopping centre. Tydskrif vir Gesinsekologie en Verbruikerswetenskappe, 34, 32–38.
Kim, H., Choo, H. J., & Yoon, N. (2013). The motivational drivers of fast fashion avoidance. Journal of Fashion Marketing and Management, 17(2): 243–260.
Kim, H. S., & Sherman, D. K. (2007). ‘Express yourself’: culture and the effect of self-expression on choice. Journal of personality and social psychology, 92(1): 1–11.
Koszweska, M. (2013). A typology of Polish consumers and their behaviours in the market for sustainable textiles and clothing. International Journal of Consumer Studies, 37: 507–521.
Levi Strauss & Co. (2015). Fashion Futures 2025. [Online], retrieved from: https://www.forumforthefuture.org/sites/default/files/project/downloads/fashionfuturespresentationpdf.pdf [accessed on: 16/03/2016].
Mhango, M. W., & Niehm, L. S. (2005). The second hand clothing distribution channel: Opportunities for retail entrepreneurs in Malawi. Journal of Fashion Marketing and Management, 9(3): 342–356.
Miller, K. W. (2013). Hedonic customer responses to fast fashion and replicas. Journal of Fashion Marketing and Management, 17(2): 2.
Minney, S. (2011). Safia Minney: fashion’s impact on the earth, Ecologist (online), retrieved from: http://www.theecologist.org/green_green_living/clothing/1055961/safia_minney_fashions_impact_on_the_earth.html [Accessed: 24/01/2017].
Mintel. (2015). Consumer Trends 2015. [Online], retrieved from: http://www.mintel.com/en/uk-consumer-trends-2015/ [accessed on: 19/03/2016].
Mittelstaedt, J. D., Schultz II, C. J., Kilbourne, W. E., & Peterson, M. (2014). Sustainability as a megatrend: Two schools of macromarketing thought. Journal of Macromarketing, 34(3): 165–170.
Mortara, A., & Ironico, S. (2011), “Ethical fashion shoppers: Beyond the hedonic/utilitarian motivations dichotomy? An exploratory research”, Proceedings of the Congresso de moda ethica.
O’Cass, A. (2000). An assessment of consumers product, purchase decision, advertising and consumption involvement in fashion clothing. Journal of Economic Psychology, 21(5): 545–576.
O’Cass, A. (2001). Consumer self-monitoring, materialism and involvement in fashion clothing. Australasian Marketing Journal, 9(1): 46–60.
O’Cass, A. (2004). Fashion clothing consumption: Antecedents and consequences of fashion clothing involvement. European Journal of Marketing, 38(7): 869–880.
Ohmae, K. (1988) Getting back into strategy. Harvard Business Review, 66(6): 149.
Palmer, A., & Clark, H. (2005). Old clothes, new looks: Second hand fashion. Berg: New York.
Palmer, A. (2005). Vintage Whores & Vintage Virgins, Second Hand Fashion in the Twenty-first Century, in A. Palmer & H. Clark (eds) Old Clothes New Looks, Second Hand Fashion, 197–213, Berg: Oxford.
PWC (2015), Retailing 2015: New Frontiers, PWC (online), retrieved: https://www.pwc.com/cl/es/publicaciones/assets/retailing2015.pdf. [accessed: 25/01/2017].
Roux, D., & Guiot, D. (2008). Measuring second-hand shopping motives, antecedents and consequences. Recherche et Applications en Marketing, 23(4): 64–84.
Roux, D., & Korchia, M. (2006). Am I what I wear? An exploratory study of symbolic meanings associated with secondhand clothing. Advances in Consumer Research, 33: 29–35.
Runfola, A., & Guercini, S. (2013). Fast fashion companies coping with internationalization: Driving the change or changing the model? Journal of Fashion Marketing and Management, 17(2): 190–205.
Sladen, C. (1995). The Conscription of Fashion: Utility Cloth, Clothing and Footwear, 1941–52. Scholar Press: Aldershot.
Snyder, C. R. (1992). Product scarcity by need for uniqueness interaction: A consumer catch-22 carousel? Basic and Applied Social Psychology, 13(1): 9–24.
The Dresser. (2013). “About us”, The Dresser (online), retrieved from: http://www.dresseronline.co.uk [accessed on: 17/11/2016].
thredUP (2016). Resale Report 2016, thredUP (online), retrieved: https://www.thredup.com/resale, [accessed on: 24/01/2017].
Tian, K. T., Bearden, W. O., & Hunter, G. L. (2001). Consumers’ need for uniqueness: scale development and validation. Journal of Consumer Research, 28: 50–66.
TimeOut. (2011). “British Red Cross”, TimeOut April 28, 2011, retrieved from: http://www.timeout.com/london/shopping/british-red-cross-1 [accessed on: 17/11/2016]
United Nations (2015). Sustainable Development Goal 8, UN (online) retrieved from: https://sustainabledevelopment.un.org/sdg8. [accessed: 24/01/2017].
Walley, K., Custance, P., Copley, P., & Perry, S. (2013). The key dimensions of luxury from a UK consumers’ perspective. Marketing Intelligence & Planning, 31(7): 823–837.
Walsh, J. (2010). “A Retro Revolution: Why Do We Love All Things Vintage?” The Independent, August 28, retrieved from: http://www.independent.co.uk/life-style/fashion/features/a-retro-revolution-why-do-we-love-all-things-vintage-2061798.html.
Watson, M. Z., & Yan, R. N. (2013). An exploratory study of the decision processes of fast versus slow fashion consumers. Journal of Fashion Marketing and Management, 17(2): 141–159.
Author information
Authors and Affiliations
Corresponding author
Editor information
Editors and Affiliations
Rights and permissions
Copyright information
© 2017 The Author(s)
About this chapter
Cite this chapter
Ryding, D., Wang, M., Fox, C., Xu, Y. (2017). A Review of Secondhand Luxury and Vintage Clothing. In: Henninger, C., Alevizou, P., Goworek, H., Ryding, D. (eds) Sustainability in Fashion. Palgrave Macmillan, Cham. https://doi.org/10.1007/978-3-319-51253-2_12
Download citation
DOI: https://doi.org/10.1007/978-3-319-51253-2_12
Published:
Publisher Name: Palgrave Macmillan, Cham
Print ISBN: 978-3-319-51252-5
Online ISBN: 978-3-319-51253-2
eBook Packages: Business and ManagementBusiness and Management (R0)