Advertisement

A Review of Secondhand Luxury and Vintage Clothing

  • Daniella RydingEmail author
  • Menglu Wang
  • Carly Fox
  • Yanan Xu
Chapter

Abstract

This chapter provides insights into current environmental trends impacting on the global fashion industry. The rise of secondhand luxury fashion and in particular vintage is examined; this sector having witnessed the largest growth in recent times. Aside from the natural resource issue, there has been an alarming rise in the negative impacts of increased cyclical effects of garment production on the environment. With an increase in pollution and scarcity of resources, it can be argued that fashion firms will need to better understand how to trigger behavioural shifts towards slower consumption and develop new sustainable business models. With secondhand retailing thriving as a business format, this chapter provides a conceptual review of the attitudinal and behavioural motivators towards sustainable consumption for an evolving and significant sector, set within the context of the circular economy.

Keywords

Secondhand Luxury Vintage Fashion Consumption Sustainability 

References

  1. Ahlert, D., Blut, M., & Evanschitzky, H. (2010). Retailing in the 21st Century – Current Status and Future Evolution of Retail Formats, 2nd ed., Springer Publishing: US.Google Scholar
  2. Annalena (n.d.). “Annalena Couture: Italian style into the heart of London”, Annalena Couture (online), retrieved from: http://www.annalenacouture.london/about-us/, [accessed on: 17/11/2016].
  3. Arnold, C. (2009). Ethical Marketing and the New Consumer. Wiley: Chichester.Google Scholar
  4. Auty, S., & Elliott, R. (1998). Fashion involvement, self-monitoring and the meaning of brands. Journal of Product & Brand Management, 7(2): 110–112.CrossRefGoogle Scholar
  5. Baden, S., & Barber, C. (2005). The Impact of the second-hand clothing trade on developing countries. UK: Oxfam.Google Scholar
  6. Banim, M., & Guy, A. (2001). Discontinued Selves: Why Do Women Keep Clothes They No Longer Wear?, in A. Guy, E. Green, & M. Banim (eds) Through The Wardrobe: Women’s Relationships with Their Clothes (pp. 203–223). Berg: Oxford.Google Scholar
  7. Bianchi, C., & Birtwistle, G. (2010). Sell, give away or donate: An exploratory study of fashion clothing disposal behaviour in two countries. The International Review of Retail, Distribution and Consumer Research, 20(3): 353–368.CrossRefGoogle Scholar
  8. British Fashion Council (2016), The British Fashion Industry & London Fashion Week Facts & Figures, BFC (online), retrieved from: http://britishfashioncouncil.co.uk/pressreleases/The-British-Fashion-Industry--London-Fashion-Week-Facts--Figures [Accessed 25/01/2017].
  9. British Red Cross (2016), “Vintage clothing and designer charity shops”, British Red Cross, retrieved from: http://www.redcross.org.uk/Get-involved/Our-shops/Our-specialist-shops/Vintage-clothing-and-designer-charity-shop [accessed on: 17/11/2016].
  10. Burns, D. J., & Warren, H. B. (1995) . Need for uniqueness: shopping mall preference and choice activity. International Journal of Retail & Distribution Management, 23(12): 4–12 .CrossRefGoogle Scholar
  11. Butler, S. M., & Francis, S. (1997). The effects of environmental attitudes on apparel purchasing behavior. Clothing and Textiles Research Journal, 15(2): 76–85.CrossRefGoogle Scholar
  12. Cassidy, T. D., & Bennett, H. R. (2012). The Rise of Vintage Fashion and the Vintage Consumer. Fashion Practice, 4: 2, 239–261.Google Scholar
  13. Cervellon, M.-C., Hjerth, H., Ricard, S., & Carey, L. (2010). Green in fashion? An exploratory study of national differences in consumers concern for eco-fashion, Proceedings of the 9th International Marketing Trends Conference, Marketing Trends Association: Venice.Google Scholar
  14. Cervellon, M. C., & Carey, L. (2011). Consumers’ perceptions of ‘green’: why and how consumers use ecofashion and green beauty products. Critical Issues in Fashion and Beauty, 2(1–2): 77–95.Google Scholar
  15. Cervellon, M.-C., Carey, L., & Harms, T. (2012). Something old, something used. International Journal of Retail & Distribution Management, 40(12): 956–974.CrossRefGoogle Scholar
  16. Choi, T. M., & Cheng, T. E. (2015). Sustainable Fashion Supply Chain Management. Springer: New York. Retrieved fro:m http://conlumino.com/?p=1583 [accessed on: 05/11/15].CrossRefGoogle Scholar
  17. Conlumino. (2014). UK set to become largest luxury goods market in Europe by 2018. Conlumino. [Online], retrieved at: http://conlumino.com/?p=1583 [accessed on: 20/03/2016].
  18. Cornett, J. E. (2010), “What is considered vintage clothing?”, retrieved from: www.ehow.com/about_6593593_considered-vintage-clothing_.html.
  19. D’Arpizio, C., Levato, F., Zito, D., & De Montolfier, J. (2014). Luxury goods worldwide market study fall-winter 2014. Bain & Company [online], retrieved from: http://www.bain.com/publications/articles/luxury-goods-worldwide-market-study-december-2014.aspx [accessed on: 05/11/15].
  20. DEFRA (Department of Environment Food and Rural Affairs). (2011). Sustainable Clothing Roadmap: Progress Report 2011, DEFRA [online], retrieved from: https://www.gov.uk/government/uploads/system/uploads/attachment_data/file/69299/pb13461-clothing-actionplan-110518.pdf [accessed on: 05/07/2013].
  21. DeLong, M., Heinemann, B., & Reiley, K. (2005). Hooked on vintage. Fashion Theory, 9(1): 23–42.CrossRefGoogle Scholar
  22. Eastman, J. K., Goldsmith, R. E., & Flynn, L. R. (1999). Status Consumption in Consumer Behavior: Scale development and validation. Journal of Marketing Theory and Practice, 7(3), 41–52.CrossRefGoogle Scholar
  23. Ethical Consumer (2015). UK Ethical Market – Annual Report, Ethical Consumer (online). retrieved from: http://www.ethicalconsumer.org/researchhub/ukethicalmarket.aspx [accessed on: 24/01/2017].
  24. Ethical Fashion Forum (2011). The Market for Ethical and Sustainable Fashion Products. [Online], retrieved from: http://source.ethicalfashionforum.com/assets-uploaded/documents/Market_for_sustainable_fashion_Briefing.pdf [accessed on: 19/03/2016].
  25. Exchange, D. (2016), “Designer Exchange – About us”, Designer Exchange (online), retrieved from: https://uk.designerexchange.com/site/aboutus [accessed on: 17/11/2016].
  26. Fletcher, K. (2013). Sustainable fashion and textiles: design journeys. Routledge: London, UK.Google Scholar
  27. Frick, C. C. (2005). The Florentine Rigattieri: Second hand clothing dealers and the circulation of goods in the Renaissance, in A. Palmer & H. Clark (Eds) Old clothes, new looks: second hand fashion, 13–28, Berg: New York.Google Scholar
  28. Gabrielli, V., Baghi, I., & Codeluppi, V. (2013). Consumption practices of fast fashion products: a consumer-based approach. Journal of Fashion Marketing and Management, 17(2): 206–224.CrossRefGoogle Scholar
  29. Gerval, O. (2008). Fashion: Concept to Catwalk. London: Bloomsbury.Google Scholar
  30. Ghosh, A., & Varshney, S. (2013). Luxury goods consumption: a conceptual framework based on literature review, South Asian Journal of Management, 20(2): 146–159.Google Scholar
  31. Gladigau, K. (2008), “Op till you drop: youth, distinction and identity in vintage clothing”, retrieved from: www.tasa.org.au.
  32. Goworek, H., Fisher, T., Cooper, T., Woodward, S., & Hiller, A. (2012). The sustainable clothing market: an evaluation of potential strategies for UK retailers. International Journal of Retail & Distribution Management, 40(12): 935–955.CrossRefGoogle Scholar
  33. Gregson, N., & Crewe, L. (2003). Second-hand Cultures. Berg: New York.CrossRefGoogle Scholar
  34. Groves, E. (2008). Vintage, green movements spur denim recycling. WWD: Women’s Wear Daily, 196(17): 10.Google Scholar
  35. Guiot, D., & Roux, D. (2010). A second-hand shoppers’ motivation scale: Antecedents, consequences, and implications for retailers. Journal of Retailing, 86(4): 383–399.CrossRefGoogle Scholar
  36. Han, Y. J., Nunes, J. C., & Dre`Ze, X. (2010). Signaling status with luxury goods: The role of brand prominence. Journal of Marketing, 74(4): 15–17.CrossRefGoogle Scholar
  37. Hansen, K. T. (2000). Salaula: The world of second-hand clothing and Zambia. University of Chicago Press: Chicago, IL.Google Scholar
  38. Hethorn, J., & Ulasewicz, C. (2008). Sustainable fashion: Why now? Fairchild Books: New York.Google Scholar
  39. Hwang, C. L., & Masud, A. S. M. (2012). Multiple objective decision making – methods and applications, Springer Verlag: Berlin.Google Scholar
  40. Jordan, Y., & Simpson, M. N. (2006). Consumer innovativeness among females in specific fashion stores in the Menlyn shopping centre. Tydskrif vir Gesinsekologie en Verbruikerswetenskappe, 34, 32–38.Google Scholar
  41. Kim, H., Choo, H. J., & Yoon, N. (2013). The motivational drivers of fast fashion avoidance. Journal of Fashion Marketing and Management, 17(2): 243–260.CrossRefGoogle Scholar
  42. Kim, H. S., & Sherman, D. K. (2007). ‘Express yourself’: culture and the effect of self-expression on choice. Journal of personality and social psychology, 92(1): 1–11.CrossRefGoogle Scholar
  43. Koszweska, M. (2013). A typology of Polish consumers and their behaviours in the market for sustainable textiles and clothing. International Journal of Consumer Studies, 37: 507–521.CrossRefGoogle Scholar
  44. Levi Strauss & Co. (2015). Fashion Futures 2025. [Online], retrieved from: https://www.forumforthefuture.org/sites/default/files/project/downloads/fashionfuturespresentationpdf.pdf [accessed on: 16/03/2016].
  45. Mhango, M. W., & Niehm, L. S. (2005). The second hand clothing distribution channel: Opportunities for retail entrepreneurs in Malawi. Journal of Fashion Marketing and Management, 9(3): 342–356.CrossRefGoogle Scholar
  46. Miller, K. W. (2013). Hedonic customer responses to fast fashion and replicas. Journal of Fashion Marketing and Management, 17(2): 2.CrossRefGoogle Scholar
  47. Minney, S. (2011). Safia Minney: fashion’s impact on the earth, Ecologist (online), retrieved from: http://www.theecologist.org/green_green_living/clothing/1055961/safia_minney_fashions_impact_on_the_earth.html [Accessed: 24/01/2017].
  48. Mintel. (2015). Consumer Trends 2015. [Online], retrieved from: http://www.mintel.com/en/uk-consumer-trends-2015/ [accessed on: 19/03/2016].
  49. Mittelstaedt, J. D., Schultz II, C. J., Kilbourne, W. E., & Peterson, M. (2014). Sustainability as a megatrend: Two schools of macromarketing thought. Journal of Macromarketing, 34(3): 165–170.CrossRefGoogle Scholar
  50. Mortara, A., & Ironico, S. (2011), “Ethical fashion shoppers: Beyond the hedonic/utilitarian motivations dichotomy? An exploratory research”, Proceedings of the Congresso de moda ethica.Google Scholar
  51. O’Cass, A. (2000). An assessment of consumers product, purchase decision, advertising and consumption involvement in fashion clothing. Journal of Economic Psychology, 21(5): 545–576.CrossRefGoogle Scholar
  52. O’Cass, A. (2001). Consumer self-monitoring, materialism and involvement in fashion clothing. Australasian Marketing Journal, 9(1): 46–60.CrossRefGoogle Scholar
  53. O’Cass, A. (2004). Fashion clothing consumption: Antecedents and consequences of fashion clothing involvement. European Journal of Marketing, 38(7): 869–880.CrossRefGoogle Scholar
  54. Ohmae, K. (1988) Getting back into strategy. Harvard Business Review, 66(6): 149.Google Scholar
  55. Palmer, A., & Clark, H. (2005). Old clothes, new looks: Second hand fashion. Berg: New York.Google Scholar
  56. Palmer, A. (2005). Vintage Whores & Vintage Virgins, Second Hand Fashion in the Twenty-first Century, in A. Palmer & H. Clark (eds) Old Clothes New Looks, Second Hand Fashion, 197–213, Berg: Oxford.Google Scholar
  57. PWC (2015), Retailing 2015: New Frontiers, PWC (online), retrieved: https://www.pwc.com/cl/es/publicaciones/assets/retailing2015.pdf. [accessed: 25/01/2017].
  58. Roux, D., & Guiot, D. (2008). Measuring second-hand shopping motives, antecedents and consequences. Recherche et Applications en Marketing, 23(4): 64–84.CrossRefGoogle Scholar
  59. Roux, D., & Korchia, M. (2006). Am I what I wear? An exploratory study of symbolic meanings associated with secondhand clothing. Advances in Consumer Research, 33: 29–35.Google Scholar
  60. Runfola, A., & Guercini, S. (2013). Fast fashion companies coping with internationalization: Driving the change or changing the model? Journal of Fashion Marketing and Management, 17(2): 190–205.CrossRefGoogle Scholar
  61. Sladen, C. (1995). The Conscription of Fashion: Utility Cloth, Clothing and Footwear, 1941–52. Scholar Press: Aldershot.Google Scholar
  62. Snyder, C. R. (1992). Product scarcity by need for uniqueness interaction: A consumer catch-22 carousel? Basic and Applied Social Psychology, 13(1): 9–24.CrossRefGoogle Scholar
  63. The Dresser. (2013). “About us”, The Dresser (online), retrieved from: http://www.dresseronline.co.uk [accessed on: 17/11/2016].
  64. thredUP (2016). Resale Report 2016, thredUP (online), retrieved: https://www.thredup.com/resale, [accessed on: 24/01/2017].
  65. Tian, K. T., Bearden, W. O., & Hunter, G. L. (2001). Consumers’ need for uniqueness: scale development and validation. Journal of Consumer Research, 28: 50–66.CrossRefGoogle Scholar
  66. TimeOut. (2011). “British Red Cross”, TimeOut April 28, 2011, retrieved from: http://www.timeout.com/london/shopping/british-red-cross-1 [accessed on: 17/11/2016]
  67. United Nations (2015). Sustainable Development Goal 8, UN (online) retrieved from: https://sustainabledevelopment.un.org/sdg8. [accessed: 24/01/2017].
  68. Walley, K., Custance, P., Copley, P., & Perry, S. (2013). The key dimensions of luxury from a UK consumers’ perspective. Marketing Intelligence & Planning, 31(7): 823–837.Google Scholar
  69. Walsh, J. (2010). “A Retro Revolution: Why Do We Love All Things Vintage?” The Independent, August 28, retrieved from: http://www.independent.co.uk/life-style/fashion/features/a-retro-revolution-why-do-we-love-all-things-vintage-2061798.html.
  70. Watson, M. Z., & Yan, R. N. (2013). An exploratory study of the decision processes of fast versus slow fashion consumers. Journal of Fashion Marketing and Management, 17(2): 141–159.CrossRefGoogle Scholar

Copyright information

© The Author(s) 2017

Authors and Affiliations

  • Daniella Ryding
    • 1
    Email author
  • Menglu Wang
    • 1
  • Carly Fox
    • 1
  • Yanan Xu
    • 1
  1. 1.Manchester UniversityManchesterUK

Personalised recommendations