Advertisement

Feeding Japan pp 287-312 | Cite as

Domesticating the Japanese Culinary Field in Shanghai

  • James FarrerEmail author
Chapter

Abstract

After the March 11, 2011 earthquake which triggered a nuclear meltdown in Fukushima, Chinese consumers began avoiding Japanese food products, and the PRC banned all agricultural imports from 10 prefectures near the disaster area. However, rather than a meltdown of the market for Japanese cuisine in China, we see a subsequent boom. The focus of this chapter is on this culinary boom, but the story of the burgeoning Japanese culinary field must also include a consideration of how food safety – along with culinary politics and questions of culinary authenticity – has been framed by domestic narratives and narrators within China. A culinary field comprises a social field of tasters, things tasted, producers of tastes, and other actors with a stake in determining these tastes. While a Japanese culinary field has indeed developed in China, it is one now dominated by Chinese actors, who increasingly determine the direction of its development. In other words, the argument in this chapter will focus on the indigenization of this culinary field, which partly insulates it from geopolitical frictions, serving to frame issues such as food safety within Chinese narratives. These narratives will be discussed more generally in the concluding discussion. The main body of this chapter traces the development of this transnational Japanese culinary field. It is based on ethnographic fieldwork conducted in Shanghai over the past five years, part of a larger project on international cuisine in that city.

Bibliography

  1. Aoki, Tamotsu. ‘The Domestication of Chinese Foodways in Contemporary Japan: Ramen and Peking Duck’. In Changing Chinese Foodways in Asia, eds. David YH Wu and Chee Beng Tan, 219–233. Hong Kong: Chinese University Press, 2001.Google Scholar
  2. Asahi Research Center. ‘Shanghai ryōriten chōsa hōkoku’ [A Research Report on Shanghai Japanese Restaurants], 2005. http://www.hokutou.jp/report/image/china_report20051102.pd.
  3. BI Intelligence. ‘WeChat Breaks 700 Million Monthly Active Users’. Business Insider, April 20, 2016, http://www.businessinsider.com/wechat-breaks-700-million-monthly-active-users-2016-4.
  4. Farrer, James. ‘Imported Culinary Heritage: The Case of Localized Western Cuisine in Shanghai’. In Rethinking Asian Food Heritage, ed. Sidney Cheung, 75–104. Taipei: The Foundation of Chinese Dietary Culture, 2014.Google Scholar
  5. Farrer, James. ‘Introduction: Traveling Cuisines In and Out of Asia: Toward a Framework for Studying Culinary Globalization’. In Globalization and Asian Cuisines: Transnational Networks and Contact Zones, ed. James Farrer, 1–19. New York: Palgrave Macmillan, 2015.CrossRefGoogle Scholar
  6. Farrer, James. ‘The Multiple Contexts of Protest: Reflections on the Reception of the MIT Visualizing Cultures Project and the Anti-Right Japanese Demonstration in Shanghai’. Positions 23, 1 (2015): 59–90.CrossRefGoogle Scholar
  7. Farrer, James. ‘Shanghai’s Western Restaurants as Culinary Contact Zones in a Transnational Culinary Field’. In Globalization and Asian Cuisines: Transnational Networks and Contact Zones, ed. James Farrer, 103–124. New York: Palgrave Macmillan, 2015.CrossRefGoogle Scholar
  8. Fogel, Joshua A. ‘Shanghai-Japan: The Japanese Residents’ Association of Shanghai’. Journal of Asian Studies 59, 4 (November 2000): 927–950.CrossRefGoogle Scholar
  9. Guardian. ‘Chinese Panic-Buy Salt Over Japan Nuclear Threat’. The Guardian, March 17, 2011. https://wwwtheguardian.com/world/2011/mar/17/chinese-panic-buy-salt-japan.
  10. Gurunabi. ‘Nihon no inshokuten no chūgoku shinshutsu ni muketa shien mo shiya ni Gurunabi ga chūgoku de no nihon ryōri no fukkyū o sappōto’ [With an Eye to the Entry of Japanese Restaurants into China, Gurunabi Is Supporting the Popularization of Japanese Cuisine]. Gurunabi Pro, June 22, 2016. http://pro.gnavi.co.jp/magazine/article/event/ev1962/.
  11. Iwama, Kazuhiro. ‘Shanghai no nihonshoku bunka – menyū no genchika ni kansuru hiaringu chōsa hōkoku’ [Shanghai’s Japanese Food Culture: A ‘Hearing Survey’ of the Localization of the Menu]. Chiba University Bulletin 51, 1 (2013): 1–54.Google Scholar
  12. JETRO. ‘Gaishoku sangyō no dōkō: Ninki ga takamaru nihonshoku – tashutayō na nihonshoku resutoran ga zōka’ [The Direction of the Food and Beverage Industry: Increasingly Popular Japanese Cuisine – All Types of Japanese Restaurants Are Increasing in Number]. October 2010. https://www.jetro.go.jp/world/asia/cn/foods/trends/1010002.html?print=1.html.
  13. Legco (Legislative Council) ‘Food Control Measures After the Fukushima Accident’. Research Brief No. 3. Hong Kong: Research Office Legislative Council Secretariat, 2013.Google Scholar
  14. Liu-Farrer, Gracia. Labor Migration from China to Japan: International Students, Transnational Migrants. Abingdon: Routledge, 2011.Google Scholar
  15. Miyake, Koken. Shanghai inshōki [Shanghai Retrospective]. Tokyo: Ryōri Shimbunsha, 1923.Google Scholar
  16. Nakano, Yoshiko. ‘Eating One’s Way to Sophistication: Japanese Food, Transnational Flows, and Social Mobility in Hong Kong’. In Transnational Trajectories in East Asia: Nation, Citizenship, and Region, ed. Yasemin Nuhoḡlu Soysal, 106–129. Abingdon: Routledge, 2014.Google Scholar
  17. Sand, Jordan. ‘A Short History of MSG: Good Science, Bad Science, and Taste Cultures’. Gastronomica 5, 4 (2005): 38–49.CrossRefGoogle Scholar
  18. Wank, David L. and James Farrer. ‘Chinese Immigrants and Japanese Cuisine in the United States: A Case of Culinary Glocalization’. In Globalization and Asian Cuisines: Transnational Networks and Contact Zones, ed. James Farrer, 79–100. New York: Palgrave Macmillan, 2015.CrossRefGoogle Scholar
  19. Yan, Yunxiang. ‘Food Safety and Social Risk in Contemporary China’. The Journal of Asian Studies 71, 3 (2012): 705–729.CrossRefGoogle Scholar
  20. Yang, Mayfair Mei-hui. Gifts, Favors, and Banquets: The Art of Social Relationships in China. Ithaca: Cornell University Press, 1994.Google Scholar

Copyright information

© The Author(s) 2017

Authors and Affiliations

  1. 1.Sophia UniversityTokyoJapan

Personalised recommendations