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Km-Scale Shoreline Sand Waves

  • Albert FalquésEmail author
  • Francesca Ribas
Chapter

Abstract

Km-scale shoreline undulations that are linked to similar undulations in the bathymetry up to certain depth are here described. The hypothesis that they may emerge from feedback mechanisms between the wave field and the morphology through the sediment transport is discussed. Basically, waves undergo refraction and shoaling when they approach the shore. On an undulating coastline, differences in refraction and shoaling arise between the updrift and the downdrift sides of an undulation. This causes gradients in alongshore wave-driven sediment transport from which accretional/erosional coastal stretches arise feeding back into the wave field.

Keywords

Shoreline undulations Wave refraction Wave shoaling Alongshore sediment transport 

Notes

Acknowledgments

This research has been funded by the Spanish government through the research projects CTM2012-35398 and CTM2015-66225-C2-1-P (co-funded by FEDER, U.E.).

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Copyright information

© Springer International Publishing Switzerland 2017

Authors and Affiliations

  1. 1.Physics DepartmentUniversitat Politècnica de CatalunyaBarcelonaSpain

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