Skip to main content

Sunscreen Formulation: Optimising Aesthetic Elements for Twenty-First-Century Consumers

  • Chapter
  • First Online:

Abstract

This chapter discusses the optimum aesthetic properties for modern sun care products, how different types of UV filters influence these aesthetic properties and what formulators can do to optimise the cosmetic appeal of their sun care formulations. The focus is on formulation of emulsion-based products, as this remains the predominant format for sun protection products globally.

Many UV filters present formulation challenges in terms of skin feel and also, in the case of inorganic sunscreens, the visual appearance of the product on skin. However, judicious choice of both actives and excipients, together with some novel ingredients and technologies now available, enable formulators to develop products that are both effective and elegant.

This is a preview of subscription content, log in via an institution.

Buying options

Chapter
USD   29.95
Price excludes VAT (USA)
  • Available as PDF
  • Read on any device
  • Instant download
  • Own it forever
eBook
USD   109.00
Price excludes VAT (USA)
  • Available as EPUB and PDF
  • Read on any device
  • Instant download
  • Own it forever
Softcover Book
USD   199.99
Price excludes VAT (USA)
  • Compact, lightweight edition
  • Dispatched in 3 to 5 business days
  • Free shipping worldwide - see info
Hardcover Book
USD   199.99
Price excludes VAT (USA)
  • Durable hardcover edition
  • Dispatched in 3 to 5 business days
  • Free shipping worldwide - see info

Tax calculation will be finalised at checkout

Purchases are for personal use only

Learn about institutional subscriptions

References

  1. Petersen B, Datta P, Philipsen PA, Wulf HC (2013) Sunscreen use and failures – on site observations on a sun-holiday. Photochem Photobiol Sci 12(1):190–196

    Article  CAS  PubMed  Google Scholar 

  2. Saecker C, Janssen A, Vollhardt J (2013) Are we done by preventing sunburn? In: Proceedings of the Florida Sunscreen symposium, Orlando, 18–21 Sept 2013

    Google Scholar 

  3. Ou-Yang H, Stanfield J, Cole C, Appa Y, Rigel D (2012) High-SPF sunscreens (SPF ≥ 70) may provide ultraviolet protection above minimal recommended levels by adequately compensating for lower sunscreen user application amounts. J Am Acad Dermatol 67(6):1220–1227

    Article  CAS  PubMed  Google Scholar 

  4. Bimczok R, Gers-Barlag H, Mundt C, Klette E, Bielfeldt S, Rudolph T, Pflucker F, Heinrich U, Tronnier H, Johncock W, Klebon B, Westenfelder H, Flosser-Muller H, Jenni K, Kockott D, Lademann J, Herzog B, Rohr M (2007) Influence of applied quantity of sunscreen products on the sun protection factor – a multicenter study organized by the DGK Task Force Sun Protection. Skin Pharmacol Physiol 20(1):57–64

    Article  CAS  PubMed  Google Scholar 

  5. European Commission (2006) Recommendation of 22 Sep 2006, on the efficacy of sunscreen products and the claims made relating thereto. Official Journal of the European Union L 265/39–L 265/43

    Google Scholar 

  6. Vollhardt J, Schoop R, Roos F, Janssen A, Saecker C (2013) The sensory experience of sunscreens – which properties matter? A descriptive sensory analysis of more than 50 sunscreens. In: Proceedings of the sun protection conference 2013: sun protection for the 21st century, London, 4–5 June 2013 (Summit Events Ltd.)

    Google Scholar 

  7. Dahms GH (1988) Cosmetic water-in-oil emulsions: application, physical properties and formulations. In: Proceedings of the symposium on “The formulation of cosmetic and topical pharmaceutical products”, Bristol, April 1988

    Google Scholar 

  8. Tadros ThF et al (1996) Use of a polymeric surfactant (ABA block copolymer) for preparation of stable water-in-oil (W/O) emulsions and water-in-oil-in-water multiple emulsions. In: Proceedings of the 19th IFSCC congress, Sydney, October 1996

    Google Scholar 

  9. Bruening S, Leonard M, Kawa R, Issberner U, Tomlinson A (2005) Role of emollients and emulsifiers in sunscreen formulations. In: Shaath NA (ed) Sunscreens: regulations and commercial development, vol 28, 3rd edn, Cosmetic science and technology series. Taylor & Francis, Boca Raton, pp 449–460

    Google Scholar 

  10. Schwarzenbach R, Huber U (2003) Optimization of sunscreen efficacy. In: Verlag für chemische Industrie, H. Ziolkowsky GmbH, Augsburg, pp 131–137

    Google Scholar 

  11. Wright C (2002) Effects of emollients on efficacy of UV filters. MChem report, York University

    Google Scholar 

  12. Hewitt JP (2013) Formulating sun protection products for the 21st century: efficacy, elegance and globality. In: Proceedings of the Florida Sunscreen Symposium, Orlando, 18–21 Sept 2013

    Google Scholar 

  13. Nohynek GJ et al (2007) Grey goo on the skin? Nanotechnology, cosmetic and sunscreen safety. Crit Rev Toxicol 37(3):251–277

    Article  CAS  PubMed  Google Scholar 

  14. Chen LL, Tooley I, Wang SQ (2013) Nanotechnology in photoprotection. In: Nasir A, Friedman A, Wang SQ (eds) Nanotechnology in dermatology. Springer, New York, pp 9–18

    Chapter  Google Scholar 

  15. Dransfield GP, Hewitt JP, Lyth PL (1998) Advances in titanium dioxide technology. In: Proceedings of the SCS spring conference, London, April 1998

    Google Scholar 

  16. Robb JL, Simpson LA, Tunstall DF (1994) Scattering and absorption of UV radiation by sunscreens containing fine particle and pigmentary titanium dioxide. Drug Cosmet Ind 154(3):32–39

    CAS  Google Scholar 

  17. Woodruff J (1994) Formulating sun care products with micronized oxides. Cosmetics & Toiletries Manufacture Worldwide, London, Aston Publishing Group, pp 179–185

    Google Scholar 

  18. McCormick P, Fletcher R, Jones C (2010) Micron-sized zinc oxide dispersion for transparent, high SPF formulas. Cosmet Toil 125(2):50–57

    CAS  Google Scholar 

  19. Hewitt JP, Dahms GH (1995) The influence of rheology on efficacy of physical sunscreens. In: Proceedings of the IFSCC conference, Montreux, pp 313–323

    Google Scholar 

  20. Hewitt JP (1999) Effective use of physical sunscreens: incorporation of physical sunscreens into water-in-oil emulsions. In: Proceedings of the European UV sunfilters conference, Paris, November 1999

    Google Scholar 

  21. Hewitt JP, Hine H, Kessell LM (2004) Optimising the sensory properties of physical sunscreen formulations. In: Proceedings of the 23rd IFSCC congress, Orlando, 24–27 Oct 2004

    Google Scholar 

  22. Kessell LM, Hewitt JP (2008) Water-in-silicone-oil emulsion for use as a sunscreen product. US patent 2008226727, 18 Sept 2008

    Google Scholar 

  23. McNeil K, Sayer R, Miles A (2014) Assessing the sensory performance of novel coating technology. SOFW J 140(7):2–7

    Google Scholar 

  24. Hewitt JP, Teague J, Sutcliffe P (2014) Efficacy and elegance in 21st century sun care. Cosmet Toil 129(3):58–65

    Google Scholar 

  25. Dahms GH (1994) Compositions containing sunscreens. UK patent 2278055, 23 Nov 1994

    Google Scholar 

  26. Dahms GH (1994) Compositions containing sunscreens. UK patent 2279007, 21 Dec 1994

    Google Scholar 

  27. Nicoll GA, Scott IR (1991) Cosmetic composition. European patent 0456458, 13 Nov 1991

    Google Scholar 

  28. Nearn MR, Redshaw SJ, Burgess G (1995) Sunscreen compositions. US patent 5417961, 23 May 1995

    Google Scholar 

  29. Deckner GE (1994) Photostable sunscreen compositions. International patent WO9404131, 3 Mar 1994

    Google Scholar 

  30. Wiechers JW, Taelman M-C, Wortel VAL, Verboom C, Dederen JC (2002) Emulsifiers and emollients exert their sensory impact in different phases of the sensory evaluation process but how does one demonstrate the absence of such an influence? IFSCC Magazine 5(2):99–105

    Google Scholar 

  31. Dahms GH (1986) Properties of oil-in-water emulsions with anisotropic lamellar phases. Cosmet Toil 101(11):113–115

    Google Scholar 

  32. Dahms GH (1990) Optimised formulations for skin care products. SOFW J 1990(10):388–392

    Google Scholar 

  33. Loll P (1994) Liquid crystals in cosmetic emulsions. Cosmetics & Toiletries Manufacture Worldwide, Aston Publishing Group, London, pp 108–120

    Google Scholar 

  34. Dahms GH (1992) Formulating with a physical sun block. Cosmet Toil 107(10):87–92

    CAS  Google Scholar 

  35. Gupta VK, Zatz JL (1999) In vitro method for modelling water resistance of sunscreen formulations. London, J Cosmet Sci 50:79–90

    Google Scholar 

  36. Markovic B, Laura D, Rerek M (2001) A laboratory method for measuring the water resistance of sunscreens. Cosmet Toil 116(9):61–68

    CAS  Google Scholar 

  37. Rigano L (2014) “Very” water-resistant sunscreens. Cosmet Toil 129(3):66–73

    CAS  Google Scholar 

Download references

Author information

Authors and Affiliations

Authors

Corresponding author

Correspondence to Julian P. Hewitt .

Editor information

Editors and Affiliations

Rights and permissions

Reprints and permissions

Copyright information

© 2016 Springer International Publishing Switzerland

About this chapter

Cite this chapter

Hewitt, J.P. (2016). Sunscreen Formulation: Optimising Aesthetic Elements for Twenty-First-Century Consumers. In: Wang, S., Lim, H. (eds) Principles and Practice of Photoprotection. Adis, Cham. https://doi.org/10.1007/978-3-319-29382-0_16

Download citation

  • DOI: https://doi.org/10.1007/978-3-319-29382-0_16

  • Published:

  • Publisher Name: Adis, Cham

  • Print ISBN: 978-3-319-29381-3

  • Online ISBN: 978-3-319-29382-0

  • eBook Packages: MedicineMedicine (R0)

Publish with us

Policies and ethics