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Women, Fashion Design and Ancestrality: Reflections on the Past and Future Possibilities

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Advances in Fashion and Design Research II (CIMODE 2023)

Abstract

The design profession is not immune to the systematic oppression of patriarchy, although it has its own gender-specific histories. From the history of design, it is possible to understand the relationship and participation of women in its development and understand the need for other approaches, especially those associated with fashion design and the relationship with female textile ancestry. Currently, there is a considerable number of studies that address female relationships, the role of gender and female textile ancestral knowledge both in relation to the area and design processes. These add data and values to the question of how gender is constructed through design processes, which can directly contribute to more sustainable results, as well as to the configuration of meaningful and culturally relevant products. This article aims to address the marginalized relationships in the history of design: women - fashion design - female textile ancestry.

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Notes

  1. 1.

    The Business Of Fashion - https://www.businessoffashion.com/

  2. 2.

    Search conducted in 23, April 2023.

  3. 3.

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  4. 4.

    Zambas, J. (2022). The World’s Best Fashion Designers. Career Adict. [online] Available at: https://www.careeraddict.com/top-10-fashion-designers-in-the-world [Accessed 23 Apr. 2023].

  5. 5.

    Pahaldesign.com. (2012). 10 Best Fashion Designers of World | Pahal Design. [online] Available at: https://pahaldesign.com/10-best-fashion-designer-of-world/ [Accessed 23 Apr. 2023].

  6. 6.

    TOP 10 Fashion Designers in the World. (2022). WFX. Available at: https://www.worldfashionexchange.com/blog/top-10-fashion-designers-in-the-world/ [Accessed 23 Apr. 2023].

  7. 7.

    Berg, H. (2022). 28 Most Famous Designers of the Fashion World. [online] Available at: https://dress-magazine.com/rating/most-famous-fashion-designers/ [Accessed 23 Apr. 2023].

  8. 8.

    Search conducted in 23, April 2023.

  9. 9.

    Silva, M. (2021). Os 7 designers portugueses que estão a moldar o futuro da Moda nacional. [online] Vogue.pt. Available at: https://www.vogue.pt/designers-portugueses-emergentes [Accessed 23 Apr. 2023].

  10. 10.

    www.lisbonlux.com. (n.d.). Moda em Lisboa - Os Melhores Estilistas. [online] Available at: https://www.lisbonlux.com/lisboa/compras/estilistas-de-moda.html [Accessed 23 Apr. 2023].

  11. 11.

    Associação Moda Lisboa (2022). Designers - ModaLisboa. [online] Modalisboa.pt. Available at: https://modalisboa.pt/designers/ [Accessed 23 Apr. 2023].

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  13. 13.

    Burel is an ancestral wool fabric once used by Portuguese mountain shepherds still produced in an artisanal way in some localities in the interior of the country.

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Acknowledgements

This work is financed by Project UID/CTM/00264/2021 of 2C2T – Centro de Ciência e Tecnologia Têxtil, funded by National Funds through FCT/MCTES.

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Correspondence to Fernanda Enéia Schulz .

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Schulz, F.E., Cunha, J. (2024). Women, Fashion Design and Ancestrality: Reflections on the Past and Future Possibilities. In: Cunha, J., Broega, A.C., Carvalho, H., Providência, B. (eds) Advances in Fashion and Design Research II. CIMODE 2023. Springer, Cham. https://doi.org/10.1007/978-3-031-43937-7_27

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