Abstract
During a panel on “The State of Fashion Magazines”, seven months into the coronavirus pandemic, Kenya Hunt, Grazia UK’s then-Deputy Editor, reflected on how the crisis had reshaped the magazine’s content. She described how they changed the name of the shopping pages at the front of the book from “What’s New Now” to “What’s Getting Us Through”, choosing to focus on “those moments that will make a reader feel understood; it’s less about consuming the new thing although we still have that in there as well. But it’s really about acknowledging this shared experience that we’re having” (BOF Team #BoFLive: The State of Fashion Magazines. http://www.businessoffashion.com/articles/media/boflive-fashionmagazine-instyle-allure-harpers-bazaar-grazia-change-media. Accessed 20 April 2021, 2020). Lauren Berlant (The Female Complaint: The Unfinished Business of Sentimentality in American Culture. Durham and London: Duke University Press, 2008) has mapped the ways in which women’s culture provides spaces for affective recognition and connection, promising proximity to the longed-for ‘better good life’ even as it avoids mobilising political engagement to prompt structural change. Yet during the pandemic (and its multiple crises), the intimate public of Grazia UK shifted in register, directly acknowledging the uncertainty, trauma and loss ‘we’ were collectively experiencing. The magazine offered solace through fashion’s pleasures whilst imagining how a better future might be realised through the political potential afforded by the pandemic’s destruction of ‘normalcy’. This chapter closely examines five issues produced by Grazia UK during the UK’s first lockdown to evaluate the extent to which the magazine functioned as a site of both respite and political agency. It also asks how Grazia’s fashion coverage provided comfort and fantasy, as per its editorial remit, despite being imbricated in the pandemic’s “ugly feelings” (Ngai, Ugly Feelings. Harvard University Press, 2005).
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Notes
- 1.
The name of the section was changed to “What’s keeping us going now”, but the phrase ‘getting us through’ was frequently used in the magazine during the lockdown issues.
- 2.
Grazia moved to a fortnightly production cycle in May 2020, presumably in response to the challenges of producing an issue each week during the pandemic. While this change was initially framed as short-term, at the time of writing the magazine was still being published fortnightly.
- 3.
The issues I discuss in this chapter are Issue 770 (23 March 2020), Issue 771 (30 March 2020), Issue 772 (6 April 2020), Issue 776 (5 May 2020) and Issue 777 (18 May 2020). The UK’s emergence from lockdown was conducted in stages: people who couldn’t work from home returned to the workplace from 10 May, schools had a phased re-opening on 1 June and non-essential shops re-opened on 15 June.
- 4.
Grazia’s Media Pack identifies their target reader as having an ‘AB’ profile. The UK Office for National Statistics categorises UK consumers into six categories according to their socio-economic status. ‘AB’ is the profile that classifies “higher and intermediate managerial, administrative, professional occupations” (UK Geographics n.d.).
- 5.
The four covers can be viewed on Bauer Media Group’s website: www.bauermedia.co.uk/news/grazia-magazine-publishes-four-split-covers-featuring-four-frontline-nhs-workers-for-nhs-dedicated-issue.
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Findlay, R. (2023). “What’s Getting Us Through”: Grazia UK as Affective Intimate Public During the Coronavirus Pandemic. In: Filippello, R., Parkins, I. (eds) Fashion and Feeling. Palgrave Studies in Fashion and the Body. Palgrave Macmillan, Cham. https://doi.org/10.1007/978-3-031-19100-8_17
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