Abstract
The British high street of the 1930s was of cultural importance as it represented a distinctive form of modernity and commerce progress. Retailing establishments included multiple shops and chain stores, department stores and madam shops. The selling philosophies of each and their relationships with young working-class women will be explored in this chapter, along with the practice of home dressmaking. The variety and multiplicity of shopping venues that lay in the streets of the cities and large towns in Britain provided access to shopping cultures, in which consumer identities were constructed. These new centres of shopping culture were an indicator of the wider modernity of interwar society and defined new developments in a city or town. The growing high street retailers of cheap ready-made garments would have attracted young, modern, working-class women and enticed them to both dream and purchase their desired fashionable lightweight dresses. This chapter considers how shopping practices of these young women were not reflections of their passive consumption, but how they were, in fact, discerning customers who were well informed in their consumption practice and the profitable target of retailers of cheap ready-made, mass manufactured lightweight day dresses.
Access this chapter
Tax calculation will be finalised at checkout
Purchases are for personal use only
Works Cited
Government Records
Board of Trade. 1932. An Industrial Survey of the Lancashire Area, excluding Merseyside. Made for the Board of Trade by the University of Manchester. Manchester: Victoria University.
H.M.S.O. 1937. Handbook of Suggestions for the Consideration of Teachers and Others Concerned in the Work of Elementary Schools. London: H.M.S.O.
H.M.S.O. 1947. The Working Party Report on the Light Clothing Industry. The Board of Trade. London: H.M.S.O.
Oral Histories
L.T. April 23 1939. Shopkeepers on Dresses and Fashions along Commercial Road, E1. TC Clothing and Personal Appearance, 18/1/B. Mass Observation Archive.
L.T. Dress Interviews. April 23 1939. East End Observations. TC Clothing and Personal Appearance, 18/1/B. Mass Observation Archive.
L.T. Dress Colours: Dress Interviews. April 23 1939. East End Observations. TC Clothing and Personal Appearance, 18/1/B. Mass Observation Archive.
J.P. Dress Interviews at Bolton Bible Class. April 24 1939. Bolton Clothes.TC Clothing and Personal Appearance, 18/1/C. Mass Observation Archive.
Periodicals
British Vogue. October 1936.
British Vogue. August 1936.
Co-Operative Wholesale Society (CWS) catalogues. CWS Autumn Fashions. 1938.
Drapers Record. July 12 1930.
Good Housekeeping. January 1932.
Islington and Holloway Press. November 21 1936.
Littlewoods catalogue. Spring 1935.
Mabs Fashions. April 1930.
Mabs Fashions. August 1932.
Marks and Spencer Magazine. Summer 1932.
Roma Pictorial Fashions. April 1934.
Weldons Home Dressmaker. 1938.
Weldons Ladies Journal. 1938.
Archival Sources
British Homes Stores, Building Our Past Archive, accessed September 12 2018. https://buildingourpast.com.
London College of Fashion Archive, University of Arts (UAL), London.
London College of Fashion Pattern Archive, University of Arts (UAL), London.
Marks and Spencer Company Archive, University of Leeds, Leeds.
St. Peter’s House Library. University of Brighton, Brighton.
The Hodson Shop Collection. Walsall Museum Services, Walsall.
The House of Fraser Archive, Glasgow University Archive Services, Glasgow.
Woolworths Museum. Woolworths Museum Online, accessed September 19 2021, https://www.woolworthsmuseum.co.uk.
Secondary sources
Alexander, Andrew, Gareth Shaw and Deborah Hodson. Regional variations in the development of multiple retailing in England, 1890–1939. In A Nation of shopkeepers: Five centuries of British retailing, edited by John Benson and Laura Ugolini. I.B. Tauris & Co, Ltd, 2003, pp. 127–154.
Alexander, Sally. Becoming a woman in London in the 1920s and 1930s. In Becoming a woman and other essays in 19th and 20th century feminist history, edited by Sally Alexander. London: Virago, 1994, pp. 203–234.
Beddoe, Dierdre. Back to home and duty: Women between the Wars, 1918-1939. London: Pandora, 1989.
Benedetta, Mary. The street markets of London. London: John Miles, 1936.
Benjamin, Thelma H. A shopping guide to London. New York: Robert M. McBride & Company, 1930.
Benjamin, Walter. Illuminations: Essays and reflections. Trans. Harry Zohn. New York: Schocken Books, 1969.
Benson, John. The rise of consumer society in Britain, 1880–1980. New York: Longman, 1984.
Bevan, Judi. The rise and fall of Marks and Spencer: …and how it rose again. London: Profile Books, 2007.
Bourke, Joanna. Working-class cultures in Britain, 1890–1960. London and New York: Routledge, 1994.
Bowlby, Rachel. Carried away: The invention of modern shopping. London: Faber & Faber, 2013.
Breward, Christopher. The hidden consumer: Masculinities, fashion and city life, 1860–1914. Manchester: Manchester University Press, 1999.
Briggs, Asa. Marks & Spencer, 1884- 1984: A centenary history. London: Octopus Books, 1984.
Brown, Callum G., and Hamish Fraser, W. Britain since 1707. London: Routledge, 2013.
Bryan, Emma. ‘From Haute Couture to Ready-to-Wear? An examination of the process of style diffusion within the British ready-to-wear industry, 1925–1930, with specific reference to the Hodson Shop Collection Walsall Museum.’ B.A (Hons) diss., 1998. University of Brighton, Brighton, UK.
Buckley, Cheryl. On the margins: Theorizing the history and significance of making and designing clothes at home. Journal of Design History, vol. 11, no. 2, 1998, pp. 157–171.
Buckley, Cheryl, and Hilary Fawcett. Fashioning the feminine: Representation and women’s fashion from the fin de siecle to the present. London; New York: I.B.Tauris, 2002.
Burman, Barbara. The culture of sewing: Gender, consumption and home dressmaking. Oxford: Berg, 1999.
Chislett, Helen. Marks in time: 125 years of Marks and Spencer. London: W&N., 2009.
Cesare, Carla. ‘Sewing the self: Needlework, femininity and domesticity in interwar Britain.’ PhD diss., 2012. Northumbria University, Newcastle, UK.
Coopey, Richard, Sean O’Connell and Dilwyn Porter. Mail order in the United Kingdom c.1880–1960: How mail order competed with other forms of retailing. The International Review of Retail, Distribution and Consumer Research, vol. 9, no. 3, 1999, pp. 261–273.
Crossick, Geoffrey, and Serge Jauman. Cathedrals of consumption: European department stores, 1850-1939. Farnham: Ashgate, 1999.
Cundiff, Edward W., and Richard Ralph Still. Fundamentals of modern marketing. New Jersey: Prentice Hall College Div., 1980.
de Certeau, Michel et al. The practice of everyday life. Trans. S. Rendell. Berkley: California University Press, 1984.
de la Haye, Amy. The dissemination of design from haute couture to fashionable ready-to-wear during the 1920s with specific reference to the Hodson dress shop in Willenhall. Textile History, vol. 24, no. 1, 1993, pp. 39–48.
Edwards, Bronwen. We are fatally influenced by goods bought in Bond Street: London, shopping and the fashionable geographies of 1930s Vogue. Fashion Theory, vol. 10, no. 1, 2006, pp. 73–96.
Edelkoort, Lidewij. Anti fashion: A manifesto for the next decade. Paris: Trend Union, 2015.
Fletcher, Kate. Fashion, fast and slow. In Time in fashion, edited by Caroline Evans and Alessandra Vaccari. London: Bloomsbury, 2020, pp. 69-71.
Fowkes Tobin, Beth, and Maureen Daly Goggin. Women and the material culture of needlework and textiles, 1750–1950. Farnham: Ashgate, 2009.
Fraser, W. Hamish. The coming of the mass market, 1850–1914. London: Macmillan, 1981.
Gilbert-Evans, Jenny E. ‘Everyday and unworn dress as museum pieces: A study of the Hodson shop collection, Walsall Museum, 1983–2016.’ PhD diss., 2016. University of Wolverhampton, Wolverhampton, UK.
Giles, Judy. Class, gender and domestic consumption in Britain 1920-1950. In Gender and consumption: Domestic cultures and commercialisation of everyday life, edited by Emma Casey and Lydia Martens. Farnham: Ashgate, 2007, pp. 15–31.
Gordon, Sarah A. Make it yourself: Home sewing, gender and culture, 1890–1930. Chichester: Columbia Press, 2008.
Griffiths, Lynn. ‘Dressmaking in the interwar period.’ M.A. diss., 2008. Royal College of Art, London, UK.
Hackney, Fiona. Making modern woman, stitch by stitch: Dressmaking and women’s magazines in Britain 1919–39. In The culture of sewing: Gender, consumption and home dressmaking, ed. Barbara Burman. Oxford: Berg, 1999, pp. 73–96.
Highmore, Ben. The everyday life reader. London: Routledge, 2002.
Horwood, Catherine. Keeping up appearances. Stroud: Sutton Publishing, 2004.
Howell, Geraldine. Wartime fashion: From haute couture to homemade, 1939-1945. London: Berg, 2012.
Jackson, Tim, and David Shaw. Mastering fashion marketing. London: Palgrave Macmillan, 2008.
Jefferys, James B. The distribution of consumer goods: A factual study of methods and costs in 1938. London: Cambridge University Press, 1950.
Jeffreys, James B. Retail trading in Britain, 1850–1950: A study of trends in retailing with special reference to the development of co-operative, multiple shop, and department store methods of trading. Cambridge University Press, 1954.
Lancaster, Bill. The department store: A social history. Leicester: Leicester University Press, 1995.
Lewis, Jane. Women in England, 1870–1950: Sexual diversions and social change.London: Harvester Wheatsheaf, 1984.
Mida, Ingrid, and Alexandra Kim. The dress detective: A practical guide to object-based research in fashion. London: Bloomsbury, 2015.
Nava, Mica. Modernity’s disavowal: Women, the city and the department store. In Modern times: Reflections on a century of modernity, edited by Mica Nava and Alan O’Shea. London: Routledge, 1996, pp. 38-76.
Neal, Lawrence E. Retailing and the public. Aberdeen University Press Ltd., 1932.
Parker, Rozsika. The subversive stitch. London: The Women’s Press Ltd., 1984.
Phillips, Simon, and Andrew Alexander. An efficient pursuit? Independent shop keeping in 1930s Britain, Enterprise and Society, vol. 6, no. 2 (2005), pp. 278–304.
Rags and Shoddy. Journal of the Textile Institute Proceedings, vol. 4, no. 2, 1954, pp. 62–64.
Rappaport, Erika Diane. Shopping for pleasure: Women and the making of London’s west end. Princeton: Princeton University Press, 2000.
Rees, Goronwy. St. Michael: History of Marks and Spencer. London: Macmillan, 1973 [1969].
Roberts, Elizabeth. A woman’s place: An oral history of working-class women, 1890–1940. Oxford: Blackwell, 1984.
Scott, Peter. Geography and retailing. London: Transaction Publishers, 1970.
Shreeve, Sheila. The Hodson shop. Costume, vol. 48, no. 1, 2014, pp. 82–97.
Shreeve, Sheila. Text for the Hodson shop exhibition. The Hodson shop collection, Walsall Museum and Art Gallery. Unpublished archival information, 1983.
Sieff, Israel. Memoirs of Israel Sieff. London: Weidenfeld & Nicolson, 1970.
Spoerer, Mark. C&A: A family business in Germany, the Netherlands and the United Kingdom. Trans. Jefferson Chase. Munich: C.H. Beck, 2016.
Stephenson, James. Economics of the wholesale and retail trade. London: Pitman, 1929.
Stevenson, John. British society, 1914-1945. London: Penguin Books, 1984.
Stone, Richard, and D.A. Rowe. The measurement of consumers’ expenditure and behaviour in the United Kingdom 1920–1938, volume II. Cambridge: Cambridge University Press, 1966.
Svendsen, Lars. Fashion: A philosophy. London: Reaction Books Ltd, 2006.
Taylor, Lou, and Elizabeth Wilson. Through the looking glass. London: BBC Books, 1989.
Thomson, Jennifer. The Hodson shop. Art and heritage. Winter 2011-Spring 2012.
Whitaker, Jan. The World of Department Stores. New York: Vendome Press, 2011.
Whiteman, Von. Looking back in fashion, 1901–1939. Wakefield: E.P. Publishing, 1978.
Wildman, Charlotte. Urban redevelopment and modernity in Liverpool and Manchester, 1918–1939. London: Bloomsbury, 2018.
Wilson, Elizabeth. Adorned in dreams: Fashion and modernity. London: I.B. Tauris, 2005.
Winship, Janice. Culture and restraint: The British chain store, 1920–1939. In Commercial cultures: economies, practices, spaces, edited by Peter Jackson, Michelle Lowe, Daniel Miller and Frank Mort. Oxford: Berg, 2000, pp. 15–34.
Women’s Institute of Domestic Arts and Sciences. Cutting. Cutting and fitting. London: White Friars Press Ltd, 1935a.
Women’s Institute of Domestic Arts and Sciences. Harmony in dress. London: White Friars Press Ltd, 1935b.
Worth, Rachel. Fashioning the clothing product: Technology and design at Marks and Spencer. Textile History, vol. 30, no. 2, 1999, pp. 234–250.
Worth, Rachel. Fashion for the people. London: Bloomsbury, 2007.
Wray, Margaret. The women’s outerwear industry. London: Gerald Duckworth, 1957.
Author information
Authors and Affiliations
Corresponding author
Rights and permissions
Copyright information
© 2022 The Author(s), under exclusive license to Springer Nature Switzerland AG
About this chapter
Cite this chapter
Roberts, C. (2022). Localities of Fashion Modernity in the 1930s: Practices of Retailing on the High Street. In: Consuming Mass Fashion in 1930s England. Palgrave Studies in Fashion and the Body. Palgrave Macmillan, Cham. https://doi.org/10.1007/978-3-030-94613-5_7
Download citation
DOI: https://doi.org/10.1007/978-3-030-94613-5_7
Published:
Publisher Name: Palgrave Macmillan, Cham
Print ISBN: 978-3-030-94612-8
Online ISBN: 978-3-030-94613-5
eBook Packages: Literature, Cultural and Media StudiesLiterature, Cultural and Media Studies (R0)