Abstract
As a research field, the impact of the purchasing power of young, employed, modern working-class women on the development of mass ready-to-wear manufacture, has yet never been thoroughly explored. The intention of this research is to “fill the gaps” left in many published dress histories of the period where the focus has been, in the majority, on the fashion practices of those in a financially stable position who would have purchased clothing from established retailers, dressmakers, home dressmaking, and couture houses. The Introduction, therefore, outlines how this book builds on previous social, business and economic histories, and explores how there remains a lack of recognition for the importance in investigating the actuality of the garments produced. It is close analysis of the materiality (both the tangible and intangible) of these mass manufactured garments, their design, production, retailing and their intended consumer that is the focus of this book, an analysis that is, as yet an area little explored in either business or fashion history frameworks. The Introduction also outlines the structure and a definition of terms that will be applied throughout.
Access this chapter
Tax calculation will be finalised at checkout
Purchases are for personal use only
Works Cited
Government Reports
H.M.S.O. 1947. The working party report on the Light Clothing Industry. The Board of Trade London: H.M.S.O.
Oral Histories
L.T. Clothes Interviews. April 17 1939. East End Observations. TC Clothing and Personal Appearance, 18/1/B. Mass Observation Archive. University of Sussex. UK.
Periodicals
Fairchilds International. 1930.
Secondary sources
Abrams, Mark. The condition of the British People, 1911–1945. London: Victor Gollancz, 1946.
Aldrich, Winifred. The impact of fashion on the cutting practices for the woman’s tailored jacket, 1800–1927. Textile History, vol. 34, no. 2, 2003, 134–170.
Appadurai, Arjun. The social life of things: Commodities in a cultural perspective. Cambridge: Cambridge University Press, 1996.
Attfield, Judy. Wild things: The material culture of everyday life. Oxford: Berg, 2000.
Baudrillard, Jean. For a critique of the political economy of the sign. St. Louis: Telos, 1981.
Beddoe, Deirdre. Back to home and duty: Women between the wars 1918–1939. London: Pandora, 1989.
Benjamin, Thelma. A shopping guide to London. London: R.M. McBride, 1930.
Blaszczyk, Regina Lee. Producing fashion: Commerce, culture and consumers. Philadelphia: University of Pennsylvania Press, 2008.
Blumer, Herbert. Fashion: From class differentiation to collective selection. The Sociological Quarterly, vol. 10, no. 3, 1969, 275–291.
Bourke, Joanna. Working-class cultures in Britain, 1890–1960: Gender, class and ethnicity. London: Routledge, 1994.
Breward, Christopher. The hidden consumer: Masculinities, fashion and city life, 1860–1914. Manchester: Manchester University Press, 1999.
Chapman, Stanley. The innovating entrepreneurs in the British ready-made clothing industry. Textile History, vol. 24, no. 1, 1993, 5–25.
Chapman, Stanley. Hosiery and knitwear. Four centuries of small-scale industry in Britain, c. 1589–2000. New York: Oxford University Press, 2002.
Collins. Collins English Dictionary. London: Harper Collins, 2016.
Crane, Diana, and Laura Bovone. Approaches to material culture: The sociology of fashion and clothing. Poetics: Journal of Empirical Research on Culture, the Media and the Arts, vol. 34, 2006, 319–333.
de la Haye, Amy and Elizabeth Wilson. Defining dress: Dress as object, meaning and identity. Manchester: Manchester University Press, 1999.
de la Haye, Amy, Lou Taylor and Eleanor Thompson. A family of fashion: The Messels six generations of dress. London: Philip Wilson Publishers, 2005.
de la Haye, Amy. Land girls: Cinderellas of the soil. Brighton: Royal Pavilion and Museums, 2009.
Douglas, Mary, and Baron Isherwood. The world of goods. New York: W.W. Norton, 1978.
Entwistle, Joanne. The fashioned body: Fashion, dress, and modern social theory. Cambridge: Polity Press, 2000.
Fields, Jill. Three sides to every story: The material culture of intimate apparel. Dress. The Journal of the Costume Society of America, vol. 23, no, 1, 1996, 75–86.
Fields, Jill. An intimate affair: Women, lingerie and sexuality. Berkley: University of California Press, 2007.
Fine, Ben, and Ellen Leopold. The world of consumption. London: Routledge, 1993.
Fowler, David. The first teenagers: Lifestyle of young wage-earners in interwar Britain. London: Routledge, 1996.
Gallagher, Emily. The artistic depiction and preservation of Victorian and Edwardian working-class dress. British Association for Victorian Studies (BAVS) Research Blog, 26 July 2022. https://victorianist.wordpress.com/2021/07/26/the-artistic-depiction-and-preservation-of-victorian-and-edwardian-working-class-dress/.
Glynn, Sean, and John Oxborrow. Interwar Britain: A social and economic history. London: George Allen Unwin, 1976.
Godley, Andrew. Jewish immigrant entrepreneurship in London and New York: Enterprise and culture. London: Palgrave Macmillan, 2001.
Green, Nancy. Ready-to-wear and ready-to-work: A century of industry and immigrants in Paris and New York. London: Duke University Press, 1997.
Hall, Peter. G. The industries of London since 1861. London: Hutchinson University Library, 1962.
Hicks, Dan, and Mary C. Beaudry. The Oxford handbook of material culture studies. Oxford: Oxford University Press, 2010.
Honeyman, Katrina. Well suited: A history of the Leeds clothing industry, 1850–1990. Oxford: Oxford University Press, 2000.
Honeyman, Katrina, and Andrew Godley. Introduction: Doing business with fashion. Textile History, vol. 34, no. 2, 2003, 101–106.
Howes, David. Sensual relations: Engaging the senses in culture and social theory. Michigan: University of Michigan, 2006.
Jefferys, James B. The distribution of consumer goods: A factual study of methods and costs in the United Kingdom in 1938. London: Cambridge University Press, 1950.
Kelley, Victoria, and Glenn Adamson. Surface tensions: Surface, finish and the meaning of objects. Manchester University Press, 2013.
Kelley, Victoria. Keeping it on the surface. In The Routledge companion to design, ed. Penny Sparke and Fiona Fisher, 123–134. London: Routledge, 2016.
Kirchhoff, Michael D. Material agency: A theoretical framework for ascribing agency to material culture. Techné, 2009, 205–219.
Kopytoff, Igor. The cultural biography of things. In The social life of things: Commodities in a cultural perspective, ed. Arjun Appadurai, 64–92. Cambridge: Cambridge University Press, 1988.
Langhamer, Claire. Women’s leisure in England, 1920–1960. Manchester: Manchester University Press, 2000.
Lemire, Beverly. Dress, culture and commerce: The English clothing trade before the factory, 1660–1800. London: Palgrave Macmillan, 1997.
Lemire, Beverly, Ruth Pearson, and Gail Campbell. Women and credit: Researching the past, refiguring the future. Oxford: Berg, 2001.
Leopold, Ellen. The manufacture of the fashion system. In Chic thrills: A fashion reader, ed. Juliet Ash and Elizabeth Wilson, 101–117. Berkley: University of California Press, 1993.
Levitt, Sarah. Cheap mass-produced men’s clothing in the nineteenth and early twentieth centuries. Textile History, vol. 22, 1991, 179–192.
Marx, Karl. Capital: Critique of political economy. Volume 1. London: Penguin Classics New Edition, 1990 [1867].
McClung-Fleming, Edward. Artifact study: A proposed model. Winterthur Portfolio vol. 9, 1974, 153–173.
McKee, Eliza. Irish national school needlework sample books: Material evidence of poor girls’ sewing and clothing. At the Objects of poverty online conference. Anglia Ruskin University, August 2021.
McRobbie, Angela. British fashion design: Rag trade or image industry? London: Routledge, 1998.
Mida, Ingrid, and Alexandra Kim. The dress detective: A practical guide to object-based research in fashion. London: Bloomsbury, 2015.
Miller, Daniel. Material cultures: Why some things matter. Oxford: Berg, 1998.
Miller, Daniel. Stuff. Cambridge: Polity Press, 2010.
Miller, Daniel. Consumption and its consequences. Cambridge: Polity Press, 2012.
Miller, Daniel, and Susanne Küchler. Clothing as material culture. Oxford: Berg, 2005.
Negrin, Llewellyn. Maurice Merleau-Pony: The corporeal experience of fashion. In Thinking through fashion: A guide to key theorists, edited by Agnès Rocomora and Anneke Smelik, 115–131. London: Bloomsbury, 2016.
Oliver, Paul, Ian Bentley, and Ian Davis. Dunroamin: The suburban semi and its enemies. London: Barrie Jenkins, 1981.
Pouillard, Veronique. Design piracy in the fashion industries of Paris and New York in the interwar years. Business History Review, vol. 5, no. 2, 2011, 319–344.
Pouillard, Veronique, and Regina Lee Blaszczyk. European fashion: The creation of a global industry. Manchester: Manchester University Press, 2018.
Priestley, John Boynton. English journey. London: Gollancz, 1934.
Prown, Jules. D. Mind in matter: An introduction to material culture theory and method. Winterthur Portfolio, vol. 17, no. 1, 1982, 1–19.
Quinlan, Christina, William Zikmund, Barry Babin, Jon Carr and Mitch Griffin. Business research methods. Hampshire: Cengage Learning EMEA, 2015.
Riello, Giorgio. La chaussure à la mode: Production innovation and marketing strategies in Parisian and London boot and shoemaking in the early nineteenth century. Textile History, vol. 34, no. 2, 2003, 107–133.
Roberts, Elizabeth. A woman’s place: An oral history of working-class women, 1890–1940. London: Basil Blackwell, 1984.
Roche, Daniel. The culture of clothing: Dress, fashion and the Ancien Régime. Cambridge: Cambridge University Press, 1996.
Sahlins, Marshall. Culture and practical reason. Chicago: University of Chicago Press, 1976
Skov, Lise, and Marie Riegels Melchior. Research approaches to the study of dress and fashion. Creative Encounters, 2008, 1–18.
Spoerer, Mark. C&A: A family business in Germany, the Netherlands and the United Kingdom, 1911–1961. Munich: C.H. Beck, 2016.
Steele, Valerie. A museum of fashion is more than a clothes-bag. Fashion Theory, vol. 2, no. 4,1998, pp. 327–336.
Stewart, Mary Lynn. Dressing modern Frenchwomen: Marketing haute couture, 1919–1939. Baltimore: John Hopkins University Press, 2008.
Strom, Sharon H. Beyond the typewriter. Chicago: University of Illinois Press, 1992.
Styles, John. Dress of the people: Everyday fashion in eighteenth-century England. New York: Yale University Press, 2008.
Taylor, Lou. The study of dress history. Manchester: Manchester University Press, 2002.
Taylor, Lou. Establishing dress history. Manchester: Manchester University Press, 2004.
Tilley, Christopher, Webb Keane, Susanne Küchler, Mike Rowlands, and Patricia Spyer. Handbook of material culture. London: Sage, 2006.
Todd, Selina. 2005. Young women, work and family in England, 1918–1950. Oxford: Oxford University Press, 2005.
Todd, Selina. The people: The rise and fall of the working class 1910–2010. London: John Murray, 2015.
Walker, John A. Design history and the history of design. London: Pluto Press, 1989.
Weber, Max. Class, status and party. In Class, status, and power, edited by Reinhard Bendix and Seymour Martin Lipset, 63–74. Glencoe, IL: Free Pres, 1953.
Wessel Smith, Maya. Creativity in poverty: British sailors in the long nineteenth century. At the Objects of poverty online conference. Anglia Ruskin University, August 2022.
White, Nicola, and Ian Griffiths. The fashion business: Theory, practice, image. London: Berg, 2000.
Winship, Janice. Culture of restraint: The British chain store, 1920–39. In Commercial cultures: Economies, practices, spaces, edited by Michelle Lowe, Peter Jackson, Daniel Miller, and Frank Mort, 15–34. Oxford: Berg, 2000.
Worth, Rachel. Fashioning the clothing product: Technology and design at Marks and Spencer. Textile History 30 (2): 234–250, 1999.
Worth, Rachel. Fashion for the people: A history of the clothing at Marks and Spencer. London: Berg, 2007.
Worth, Rachel. Clothing and landscape in Victorian England: Working-class dress and rural life. London: I.B. Tauris, 2019.
Wray, Margaret. The women’s outerwear industry. London: Gerald Duckwort, 1957.
Author information
Authors and Affiliations
Corresponding author
Rights and permissions
Copyright information
© 2022 The Author(s), under exclusive license to Springer Nature Switzerland AG
About this chapter
Cite this chapter
Roberts, C. (2022). Introduction: Premise. In: Consuming Mass Fashion in 1930s England. Palgrave Studies in Fashion and the Body. Palgrave Macmillan, Cham. https://doi.org/10.1007/978-3-030-94613-5_1
Download citation
DOI: https://doi.org/10.1007/978-3-030-94613-5_1
Published:
Publisher Name: Palgrave Macmillan, Cham
Print ISBN: 978-3-030-94612-8
Online ISBN: 978-3-030-94613-5
eBook Packages: Literature, Cultural and Media StudiesLiterature, Cultural and Media Studies (R0)