By Gerbrand Komen after some discussions with Luigi Cavaleri.
The challenge
There are two main challenges involved in ocean wave research:
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1.
One would like to better understand the basic physics, which is really quite complicated: even today many aspects are not fully understood.
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2.
There is a great need for practical applications: reliable forecasts and climatologies.
What was known in the 1950s?
Ocean wave research was booming in the 1950s,Footnote 1 with exciting progress being made along several lines. The semi-empirical forecasting methods of Sverdrup and Munk, based on wave height observations, came into wider use. Visual observations were complemented by instrumental observations, both in the laboratory and in the field. Bill Pierson introduced ocean wave spectra, applying results from studies on random noise, and he developed practical methods for ocean wave forecasting using wave spectra and statistics. Owen Philips and John Miles made significant contributions to the understanding of basic processes.
Basic equations
Then, in 1960, Klaus Hasselmann published Grundgleichungen der Seegangsvorhersage (Basic equations for sea state predictions) in German in the journal Schiffstechnik (Maritime Engineering) ([3], see facsimile f1 below). The paper opens by noting that knowledge of the forces acting upon developing ocean waves (“wind sea”) is insufficient, but also—more optimistically—that recent advances are encouraging in terms of attempts to develop a reliable, general method of sea state prediction and that this should be based on an equation that represents the energy balance that shapes the ocean wave spectrum. This is then followed by what is now known as the energy balance equation, aka the radiative transfer equation, which expresses the rate of change in energy of a spectral component as a result of advection, wind input, dissipation, and the exchange of energy between different wave components due to nonlinear resonant interactions.
In the paper, Hasselmann expresses his surprise that this equation had not been included in previous approaches. However, this is not quite correct, because, in fact, Gelci and his colleagues had formulated and used a similar equation in 1957 in a paper entitled Prévision de la houle. La méthode des densités spectroangulaires, which was published in the Bulletin d'information du Comité central d'océanographie et d'études des cotes. Obviously, this was not known to Klaus at that time. Anyway, his treatment contained an important new element, namely the inclusion of the wave-wave interaction term.
Some readers of Grundgleichungen (for example, Richard Dorrestein, director of Oceanography and Maritime Meteorology at the Royal Netherlands Meteorological Institute) were surprised that the paper did neither derive nor justify the correctness of the energy balance equation. In fact, a decent derivation was not provided until 1975, when Jürgen Willebrand published his ‘Energy transport in a nonlinear and inhomogeneous random gravity wave field’.
Grundgleichungen not only includes the basic equations, but also discusses several applications in special situations, namely for fully developed wind sea and for the “development phase, in which the non-linear effects are still negligible”. Later it would become clear that this second application was rather academic as nonlinear interactions were found to be strong for young wind sea. Finally, the paper includes a section on finite depth effects, with an application of generation in the Neusiedler See, a lake in Austria, south of Vienna.
Grundgleichungen has a modest citation record. Nevertheless, its impact has been enormous, as it not only provided a basis for further work, but also set out an agenda for ocean wave research by stating that:
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(...) more precise observations would be required (a theoretical calculation might fail for the time being due to the turbulence problem) to determine those terms used in the energy equation that are still uncertain with greater precision.
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the method could be expanded with the aid of a suitable computer programme for an electronic digital system, to calculate fast and accurate sea state and swell forecasts for any wind fields identified on the weather chart.
Klaus himself would actively pursue these objectives over the next few decades, with help of the global wave research community which he successfully mobilized. This is now history, with several well-written and well-documented accounts.Footnote 2 Here a short overview will be given.
Nonlinear interactions
Grundgleichungen contained an explicit expression for the exchange of energy between different wave components due to nonlinear resonant interaction, the so-called Boltzmann integral, a five-dimensional integral containing the products of wave spectra and a number of exchange functions. The exchange functions were not included in the 1960, but appeared in follow-up papers [6, 8, 9] in 1962 and 1963, and in a comprehensive and more general account which appeared in 1968 as “Weak-interaction theory of ocean waves” (21).
The Boltzmann integral is actually a 6-dimensional integral in wavenumber space, constrained by the resonance condition, namely that the frequency of the ‘forced’ component is equal to the sum of the frequencies of the ‘forcing’ components. Its numerical integration is challenging because wave spectra are typically sharply peaked. To obtain reliable results these peaks have to be represented with a high degree of accuracy in high resolution. Initial results were already available in 1961, indicating that energy from waves near the peak of the spectrum was transferred to still longer waves, but integrating the Boltzmann integral with sufficient accuracy and affordable computing costs remained a challenge for the next 25 years or so [198, 77, 78, 114]. An initial successful application emerged in 1972 when it was found that nonlinear resonant interactions were essential for understanding the spectral evolution observed during JONSWAP. Later applications from 1980 onwards were used in numerical wave prediction models.
JONSWAP
Klaus Hasselmann was involved in several large-scale field experiments. The first was the Pacific swell propagation programme [18] with Walter Munk and others. Another major campaign was MARSEN in 1979 in the North Sea. Perhaps best known is JONSWAP, which Hasselmann coordinated, which took place in the German Bight in 1969 following a pilot experiment in 1968. There were several objectives, such as measuring wave growth, wind stress, atmospheric turbulence, and swell attenuation. The development of sea states was studied by continuously measuring wave spectra along a line extending 160 kms into the North Sea westward from Sylt under (fairly) stationary offshore wind conditions.
One important result was the parametrisation of the observed spectra. The starting point was an earlier parametrisation by Pierson and Moskowitz for fully developed seas. The most remarkable difference was the strong enhancement of the energy level at the spectral peak during growth. Mitsuyasu, who had performed similar measurements at about the same time in Hakata Bay, proposed a somewhat different parametrisation, however the JONSWAP spectrum would be used more widely in later studies and applications.
A second important result of JONSWAP was the determination of the fetch dependence of the spectral parameters, where fetch is defined as the distance to shore. Ideally, one would like to perform these studies for a constant wind blowing perpendicular from a straight coastline. In reality this never occurs, which results in a lot of scatter in plots of measured wave parameters against fetch. This is usually somewhat hidden in log–log plots. Another problem relates to the choice of scaling variable. Quantities such as wave height and wavelength are usually presented in nondimensional form with the aid of either the wind speed at a given height or the frictional velocity. The choice is important when one extrapolates the JONSWAP results—which were obtained for fairly moderate wind speeds—to higher wind speeds, as the windspeed/friction velocity ratio is itself a function of wind speed.
Perhaps the most rewarding outcome was a better understanding of the mechanism of wave evolution. Using computations of the Boltzmann integral and simple parametrisations for wind input and dissipation it could be shown that wind input mainly occurs at medium and high frequencies and that the generation of low frequency waves—and the associated mean wavelength increase with fetch (and wave age)—is due to nonlinear interactions.
Models
The JONSWAP-results formed essential ingredients for the realisation of the second objective set out in Grundgleichungen: “to calculate fast and accurate wind sea and swell forecasts”.
Numerical wave models represent the wave spectrum on grid points and simulate their evolution in small time steps. As numerical integration of the full Boltzmann integral was prohibitively expensive, several ocean wave models were developed in Hamburg and elsewhere in which the effect of the nonlinear transfer was modelled by prescribing the spectral shape and imposing the observed dependence of the spectral parameters on the wave age. These models had skill and were used for many applications, but then an international model intercomparison (SWAMP) found that different models produced very different results in particular situations. An important step forward was made by the development of EXACT-NL [76], a model that used an approximation developed by Klaus and Susanne Hasselmann. Results were presented in Miami in 1981 but were not published until 1985.
Hasselmann launched a new initiative in 1984 known as the WAM (Wave Modelling) group in which an international team of researchers would collaborate on the further development of a model based on the Grundgleichungen. This involved the further improvement of the source terms, a new more rapid approximation to the Boltzmann integral, and implementation in many different centres. At ECMWF much work was done by Susanne Hasselmann and others at ECMWF, in particular by Liana Zambresky, Peter Janssen and Heinz Günther, each of whom spent several years in Reading installing the model on the CRAY-1, coupling it to wind fields, performing test and validation runs, introducing the model into the operational forecast cycle, and setting up routine validation against observations. Visitors from the WAM group (such as Anne Guillaume, Vince Cardone and Luigi Cavaleri and their colleagues) also made significant contributions. The model became known as the WAM model. Results were published in 1988, and later, in 1994, in the monograph “Dynamics and Modelling of Ocean Waves” [244]. This was all done under the continuous guidance of and was inspired by Klaus Hasselmann.
There was a certain amount of consensus that models constructed on the basis of fundamental physics, such as that described in Grundgleichungen, and the WAM-model in particular, would be superior to more empirical models. However, reality is complex: the WAM-model had some shortcomings, in particular in the numerics, whilst some models that did not integrate the Boltzmann equation were very well tuned and performed quite well. In practice, the quality of wind forcing was often a limiting factor. In fact, WAM was so reliable that it could detect errors in the atmospheric model used to generate surface winds.
Towards an integrated wind and wave data assimilation system
In 1985, when work on the WAM model was under way, and remote sensing from earth observing satellites became feasible, Hasselmann came up with a new and ambitious vision [74, 79, 95], namely, to run a coupled atmosphere/surface wave/ocean model, which could provide first-guess information for the retrieval of useful information from satellites, and which would assimilate all available observations in real time. This would then provide the best possible forecasts as well as an archive for climate and other research. This seemed like a pipedream in 1985, and some people were critical because of its inductive structure, as it would use model results to interpret measurements which were then used to validate the model. Nevertheless, it became a reality in the nineties, and was highly successful, helping to improve forecasting expertise and providing huge and useful datasets (ERA) for earth system research.
Heritage
After 1994, Hasselmann put his energy in other endeavours, while ocean wave research continued, building upon what he had already started. “Dynamics and Modelling of Ocean Waves” [244] became a standard reference book and remained so throughout the years, when many groups attempted to improve the representation of the various source terms. The WAM-model is still in use for both forecasting and wave climate studies.
Klaus’ dream of an integrated wind and wave data assimilation system became reality in 1998 when ECMWF started running a coupled forecasting system, where the atmospheric component of the Integrated Forecasting System (IFS) communicated with the wave model through the exchange of the Charnock parameter, which determines the roughness of the sea surface.
New ocean wave models, such as SWAN and WAVEWATCH, were developed. They are still essentially based on the Grundgleichungen as described by Hasselmann in his 1960 paper.