Skip to main content

Understanding the Internal and External Drivers and Barriers for Digital Servitization in the European Textile Manufacturing Industry

  • Conference paper
  • First Online:
Fashion Communication (FACTUM 2021)

Abstract

Organizations are increasingly transforming their business models from the provision of products toward the provision of services to gain a competitive advantage. This phenomenon is known as servitization, a form of transformation which is particularly accelerated by the impact of digital technologies. Digital servitization is a contemporary topic in academic literature, with few contributions investigating the main forces acting as drivers and barriers. Despite textile manufacturers are progressively developing advanced solutions to stay ahead in the competition, little is known about sectoral-specific drivers and barriers of digital servitization. By addressing this gap, this study aims to shed light on the phenomenon through semi-structured interviews with textile manufacturers and their business partners. This paper provides a first attempt of mapping drivers and barriers, and, by leveraging the contingency theory lens, these have been grouped into six main factors: “technology,” “organization,” “customer,” “competition,” “collaboration,” and “governments and other associations.”

This is a preview of subscription content, log in via an institution to check access.

Access this chapter

Chapter
USD 29.95
Price excludes VAT (USA)
  • Available as PDF
  • Read on any device
  • Instant download
  • Own it forever
eBook
USD 149.00
Price excludes VAT (USA)
  • Available as EPUB and PDF
  • Read on any device
  • Instant download
  • Own it forever
Softcover Book
USD 199.99
Price excludes VAT (USA)
  • Compact, lightweight edition
  • Dispatched in 3 to 5 business days
  • Free shipping worldwide - see info
Hardcover Book
USD 199.99
Price excludes VAT (USA)
  • Durable hardcover edition
  • Dispatched in 3 to 5 business days
  • Free shipping worldwide - see info

Tax calculation will be finalised at checkout

Purchases are for personal use only

Institutional subscriptions

Similar content being viewed by others

References

  1. Deloitte. (2018). Digital transformation- the ultimate challenge for the fashion industry. Retrieved April 2020, from https://www2.deloitte.com/ch/en/pages/consumer-industrial-products/articles/ultimate-challenge-fashion-industry-digital-age.html.

  2. Rocamora, A. (2017). Mediatization and digital media in the field of fashion. Fashion Theory, 21(5), 505–522.

    Google Scholar 

  3. European Technology Platform. (2016). Towards a 4th industrial revolution of textiles and clothing. A strategic innovation and research agenda for the European textile and clothing industry. Lutz Walter Textile ETP ed.

    Google Scholar 

  4. Kalbaska, N., Sadaba, T., & Cantoni, L. (2019). Fashion communication: Between tradition and digital transformation. SComS – Studies in Communication Sciences Journal, 2, 269–285.

    Google Scholar 

  5. Noris, A., Nobile, T. H., Kalbaska, N., & Cantoni, L. (2021). Digital fashion: A systematic literature review. A perspective on marketing and communication. Journal of Global Fashion Marketing, 12(1), 32–46. https://doi.org/10.1080/20932685.2020.1835522.

    Article  Google Scholar 

  6. Baines, T., & Lightfoot, H. W. (2013). Servitization of the manufacturing. Exploring the operations practices and technologies that deliver advanced services. International Journal of Operations and Production Management, 34, 2–35.

    Google Scholar 

  7. Kindström, D., & Kowalkowski, C. (2009). Development of industrial service offerings: A process framework. Journal of Service Management., 20(2), 156–172.

    Google Scholar 

  8. Oliva, R., & Kallenberg, R. (2003). Managing the transition from products to services. International Journal of Service Industry Management, 14(2), 160–172.

    Google Scholar 

  9. Confente, I., Russo, I., & Buratti, A. (2015). The role of servitization for small organizations: Drivers versus barriers. International Journal of Entrepreneurship and Small Business, 26(3), 312–331.

    Google Scholar 

  10. Kohtamäki, M., Partanen, J., Parida, V., & Wincent, J. (2013). Non-linear relationship between industrial service offering and sales growth: The moderating role of network capabilities. Industrial Marketing Management, 42(8), 1374–1385.

    Google Scholar 

  11. Matthyssens, P., & Vandenbempt, K. (2008). Moving from basic offerings to value-added solutions: Strategies, barriers and alignment. Industrial Marketing Management, 37(3), 316–328.

    Google Scholar 

  12. Ardolino, M., Rapaccini, M., Saccani, N., Gaiardelli, P., Crespi, G., & Ruggeri, C. (2018). The role of digital technologies for the service transformation of industrial organizations. International Journal of Production Research, 56(6), 2116–2132.

    Google Scholar 

  13. Coreynen, W., Matthyssens, P., & Bockhaven, W. (2017). Boosting servitization through digitization: Pathways and dynamic resource configurations for manufacturers. Industrial Marketing Management, 60, 42–52.

    Google Scholar 

  14. Turunen, T., Eleoranta, V., & Hakanen, E. (2018). Contemporary perspectives on the strategic role of information in internet of things-driven industrial services. The Journal of Business and Industrial Marketing, 33(6), 837–845.

    Google Scholar 

  15. Paiola, N., & Gebauer, H. (2020). Internet of things technologies, digital servitization and business model innovation in BtoB manufacturing organizations. Industrial Marketing Management, 89, 245–264.

    Google Scholar 

  16. Paschou, T., Rapaccini, M., Adrodegari, F., & Saccani, N. (2020). Digital servitization in manufacturing: A systematic literature review and research agenda. Industrial Marketing Management., 89, 278–292.

    Google Scholar 

  17. Peillon, S., & Dubruc, N. (2019). Barriers to digital servitization in French manufacturing SMEs. Procedia CIRP, 83, 146–150.

    Google Scholar 

  18. Rymaszewska, A., Helo, P., & Gunasekaran, A. (2017). IoT powered servitization of manufacturing- an exploratory case study. International Journal of Production Economics, 192, 92–105.

    Google Scholar 

  19. Kohtamäki, M., Parida, W., Patel, P. C., & Gebauer, H. (2020). The relationship between digitalization and servitization: The role of servitization in capturing the financial potential of digitalization. Technological Forecasting and Social Change, 151, 119804.

    Google Scholar 

  20. Tronvoll, B., Skylar, A., Sörhammar, D., & Kowalkowski, C. (2020). Transformational shifts through digital servitization. Industrial Marketing Management, 89, 293–305.

    Google Scholar 

  21. Marcon, E., Marcon, A., Le Dain, M., Ayala, N., Frank, A., & Matthieu, J. (2019). Barriers for digitalization of servitization. Procedia CIRP, 83, 254–259.

    Google Scholar 

  22. Dotti, S., Gaiardelli, P., Pinto, R., & Resta, B. (2013). ICT functionalities in the servitization of manufacturing. IFAC Proceedings, 46(9), 2063–2068.

    Google Scholar 

  23. Ahmad, S., Miskon, S., Alabdan, R., & Tlili, I. (2020). Towards sustainable textile and apparel industry: Exploring the role of business intelligence systems in the era of industry 4.0. Sustainability, 12, 2632.

    Google Scholar 

  24. Bontoux, L., Boucher, P., & Scapolo, F. (2017). Textiles and clothing manufacturing: Vision for 2025 and actions needed, EUR 28634 EN. Luxembourg: Publications Office of the European Union.

    Google Scholar 

  25. Ellen MacArthur Foundation. (2017). A new textiles economy: Redesigning fashion’s future.

    Google Scholar 

  26. Mastrogiacomo, L., Barravecchia, F., & Franceschini, F. (2019). A worldwide survey on manufacturing servitization. The International Journal of Advanced Manufacturing Technology, 103(9), 3927–3942.

    Google Scholar 

  27. Larsson, J., Vellesalu, A., Pal, R., Zethraeus, A., & Carlsson, J. (2019). Feasibility of servitization. Transforming fashion value chains to circularity through service innovation.

    Google Scholar 

  28. Dos Santos, P. S., Campos, L. M. S., & Cauchick Miguel, P. A. (2019). Adoption of product- service system and the potential as a sustainable solution: A literature view in the fashion industry. Proceedings of the international conference on industrial engineering and Operations management Pilsen, Czech Republic, July 23–26.

    Google Scholar 

  29. Küsters, D., Praß, N., & Gloy, Y. (2017). Textile learning factory 4.0-preparing Germany’s textile industry for the digital future. 7th conference on learning factories.

    Google Scholar 

  30. Kühl, C., Bourlakis, M., Aktas, E., & Skipworth, H. (2020). How does servitisation affect supply chain circularity? A systematic literature review. Journal of Enterprise Information Management, 33(4), 703–728.

    Google Scholar 

  31. Pal, R. (2016). Extended responsibility through servitization in PSS: An exploratory study of used-clothing sector. Journal of Fashion Marketing and Management, 20(4), 453–470.

    Google Scholar 

  32. Ricchiardi, A., & Bugnotto, G. (2019). Customized servitization as an innovative approach for renting service in the fashion industry. CERN IdeaSquare Journal of Experimental Innovation, 3(1), 15–19.

    Google Scholar 

  33. Vehmas, K., Raudaskoski, A., Heikkilä, P., Harlin, A., & Mensonen, A. (2018). Consumer attitudes and communication in circular fashion. Journal of Fashion Marketing and Management, 22(3), 286–300.

    Google Scholar 

  34. Cantoni, L., Cominelli, F., Kalbaska, N., Ornati, M., Sádaba, T., & SanMiguel, P. (2020). Fashion communication research: A way ahead. Studies in Communication Sciences, 20(1), 121–125. https://doi.org/10.24434/j.scoms.2020.01.011.

    Article  Google Scholar 

  35. Eloranta, V., & Turunen, T. (2015). Seeking competitive advantage with service infusion: A systematic literature review. Journal of Service Management, 26, 394–425.

    Google Scholar 

  36. Dehn, T., Chicksand, D. & Sanderson, J. (2016). Servitization: The importance of theory Conference: IPSERA.

    Google Scholar 

  37. Lawrence, P., & Lorsch, J. (1967). Differentiation and integration in complex Organizations. Administrative Science Quarterly, 12, 1–30.

    Google Scholar 

  38. Walker, H., Chicksand, D., Radnor, Z., & Watson, G. (2015). Theoretical perspectives in operations management: An analysis of the literature. International Journal of Operations and Production Management, 35(8), 1182–1206.

    Google Scholar 

  39. Coreynen, W., Matthyssens, P., Vanderstraeten, J., & van Witteloostuijn, A. (2020). Unravelling the internal and external drivers of digital servitization: A dynamic capabilities and contingency perspective on organization strategy. Industrial Marketing Management, 89, 265–277.

    Google Scholar 

  40. Kamp, B., Ochoa, A., & Diaz, J. (2016). Smart servitization within the context of industrial user-supplier relationships: Contingencies according to a machine tool manufacturer. International Journal of Interactive Design and Manufacturing, 11(3), 1–13.

    Google Scholar 

  41. Reim, W., Sjödin, D. R., & Parida, V. (2019). Servitization of global service network actors- a contingency framework for matching challenges and strategies in service transition. Joural of Business Research, 104, 461–471.

    Google Scholar 

  42. Donaldson, L. (2001). The contingency theory of organizations (3rd ed.). Thousand Oaks, CA: Sage.

    Google Scholar 

  43. Yin, R. K. (2009). Case study research: Design and methods (4th ed.). Thousand Oaks: Sage.

    Google Scholar 

  44. Eisenhardt, K. M., & Graebner, M. E. (2007). Theory building from cases: Opportunities and challenges. Academy of Management Journal, 50(1), 25–32.

    Google Scholar 

  45. Braun, V., & Clarke, V. (2006). Using thematic analysis in psychology. Qualitative Research in Psychology, 3, 77–101.

    Google Scholar 

  46. Bullón Pérez, J., González Arrieta, A., Hernández Encinas, A., & Queiruga-Dios, A. (2017). Manufacturing processes in the textile industry. Expert systems for fabrics production. Advances in Distributed Computing and Artificial Intelligence Journal Regular, 6(1), 41–50.

    Google Scholar 

  47. Gimet, C., Guilhon, B., & Roux, N. (2010). Fragmentation and immiserising specialization: The case of the textile and clothing sector. Hal archives Ouvertes halshs-00464393.

    Google Scholar 

  48. Padovani, C., & Whittaker, P. (2017). Collaboration and leadership as tools for the empowerment for socially and economically fragmented textile manufacturing communities. In Sustainability and the social fabric: Europe’s new textile industries. London: Bloomsbury Academic.

    Google Scholar 

  49. Tronconi, M. (2005). Textile and apparel: An historical and “glo-cal” perspective. The Italian case from an economic agent’s point of view. Liuc papers n. 176, Serie Economia e impresa, 45.

    Google Scholar 

  50. Bertola, P., & Teunissen, J. (2018). Fashion 4.0. Innovating fashion industry through digital transformation. Research Journal of Textile and Apparel, 22(4), 352–269.

    Google Scholar 

  51. Cenamor, J., Rönnberg Sjödin, D., & Parida, V. (2017). Adopting a platform approach in servitization: Leveraging the value of digitalization. International Journal of Production Economics, 192, 54–65.

    Google Scholar 

  52. Lenka, S., Parida, V., & Vincent, J. (2017). Digitalization capabilities as enablers of value co-creation in servitizing organizations. Psychology and Marketing, Vol., 34(1), 92–100.

    Google Scholar 

Download references

Author information

Authors and Affiliations

Authors

Corresponding author

Correspondence to Olga Sironi .

Editor information

Editors and Affiliations

Rights and permissions

Reprints and permissions

Copyright information

© 2021 The Author(s), under exclusive license to Springer Nature Switzerland AG

About this paper

Check for updates. Verify currency and authenticity via CrossMark

Cite this paper

Sironi, O., Rösler, J., Kalbaska, N., Friedli, T. (2021). Understanding the Internal and External Drivers and Barriers for Digital Servitization in the European Textile Manufacturing Industry. In: Sádaba, T., Kalbaska, N., Cominelli, F., Cantoni, L., Torregrosa Puig, M. (eds) Fashion Communication. FACTUM 2021. Springer, Cham. https://doi.org/10.1007/978-3-030-81321-5_5

Download citation

Publish with us

Policies and ethics