Abstract
Shame has become a prominent topic in recent research in psychology and philosophy, but it has rarely been linked to aesthetic contexts. The present study’s examination of the life and work of fashion designer Karl Otto Lagerfeld (1933-2019) attempts to understand how the subject was able to transform shame experiences through his particular approach to aesthetics. Both the history of aesthetics and Positive Psychology 2.0 (PP2.0) will be drawn upon to cast lights on salient events and relationships in Lagerfeld’s life, the overarching concern being to reveal the nexus between the subject’s experience of shame and the strategies he marshalled to meet life challenges.
The chapter takes a psychobiographical approach to the life of the subject, Karl Otto Lagerfeld. The subject was purposefully sampled.
The study found that Lagerfeld’s early affective experiences with his mother, Elizabeth, as well as an entire childhood spent learning about culture and art at her feet, informed his later ability to reach for the positivity hidden within shameful experiences and turn it toward the creation of new and original fashion designs.
The title comes from Lagerfeld biographer Raphaëlle Bacqué: “The sublime dresses he designed for Chloé always sold well, but now [in the 1960s] people saw [Karl Lagerfeld] as an aristocrat of the underground” (Bacqué, 2020: 81).
Access this chapter
Tax calculation will be finalised at checkout
Purchases are for personal use only
Notes
- 1.
The authors will not write an entire sub-section on the research methodology on psychobiography since it is assumed that psychobiography as a research methodology will be explained in the present volume’s introduction and in its other chapters.
References
Amann, E. (2015). Dandyism in the age of revolution: The art of the cut. University of Chicago Press.
Ang, J. (2019). Take a bow: Karl Lagerfeld, fashion’s undisputed workaholic, has called it a day. Prestige, 18 April. https://www.prestigeonline.com/sg/style/fashion/take-a-bow-karl-lagerfeld-fashions-undisputed-workaholic-has-called-it-a-day/
Bacqué, R. (2020). Kaiser Karl. ACC Art Books.
Beiser, F. C. (1996). Introduction: Romantic aesthetics and politics. In F. C. Beiser (Ed.), The early political writings of the German Romantics (pp. xi–xxix). Cambridge University Press.
Biography.com. (2019). Karl Lagerfeld biography. https://www.biography.com/fashion-designer/karl-lagerfeld
Boigner, J. (2017). The absence of shame, social injustice, automation, welfare and redemption. 7 August 2017.https://medium.com/@jessebogner17/the-absence-of-shame-social-injustice-automation-welfare-and-redemption-3cd9d8f55b71
Colapinto, J. (2007). In the now: Where Karl Lagerfeld lives. New Yorker, 12 March. https://www.newyorker.com/magazine/2007/03/19/in-the-now
CNBC International TV. (2017). Karl Lagerfeld: My childhood was very simple. CNBC Conversation. YouTube. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_qS5WY3JEkg
Collins, N. (1994). Scent of a man. Mirabella, November, 88-92.
Dawson, H. (2018). Shame in early modern thought: From sin to sociability. Hist. Euro. Ideas. DOI: https://doi.org/10.1080/01916599.2018.1534447
de Vugt, G. (2018). Political dandyism in literature and art: Genealogy of a paradigm. Palgrave Macmillan.
DW Documentary. (2018). Karl Lagerfeld—German fashion designer and icon. DW documentary. YouTube. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=XPt1dAwHM_o
Drake, A. (2007). The beautiful fall: Fashion, genius, and glorious excess in 1970s Paris. Back Bay.
Erster Tag. (2018). Karl Lagerfeld “verabscheut” Angela Merkel. Erster Tag, 11 May. http://erster2tag.blogspot.com/2018/05/karl-lagerfeld-verabscheut-angela-merkel.html
Flaubert, G. (1869). L’éducation sentimentale. Michel Lévy Fréres.
Gorodeisky, K. (2016). 19th century Romantic aesthetics. Stanford Encycl. Phil., Fall Ed. https://plato.stanford.edu/archives/fall2016/entries/aesthetics-19th-romantic/
Granz, K.-C. (2017). Karl Lagerfeld kritisiert Angela Merkel mit Hitler-Cartoon. Designlovr, 16. October. https://designlovr.de/magazine/e/karl-lagerfeld-kritisiert-angela-merkel/
Hilgers, M. (2013). Scham. Vandenhoeck & Ruprecht.
Huffpost (2012). Adele responds to Karl Lagerfeld’s “fat” remark. Huffington Post, 9 February. https://www.huffpost.com/entry/adele-responds-to-karl-lagerfelds-fat-remark_n_1265252
Huysmans, J.-K. (1891). Là-Bas. Tresse & Stock.
Jaffe, K., Flórez, A., Gomes, C. M., Rodriguez, D., & Achury, C. (2014). On the biological and cultural evolution of shame: Using internet search tools to weight values in many cultures. Laboratorio de Evoluciòn, Universidad Simón Bolìvar, Caracas, Venezuela. https://arxiv.org/ftp/arxiv/papers/1401/1401.1100.pdf
Jaeger, H. (1982). Lagerfeld, Otto. In Neue Deutsche Biographie, 13 (p. 413). https://www.deutsche-biographie.de/sfz47422.html
Janson Media. (2014). Karl Lagerfeld sketches his life. YouTube. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=1ujE0H_sQ0U
Kaiser, A. (2021). Karl Lagerfeld, Ein Deutscher in Paris: Biographie. C. H. Beck.
Kelley, J. L. (2018). Jim Jones and Romantic Socialism. Romanity.
Kohle, H. (2007). The modernity of history painting: The case of Adoph Menzel. Intellectual Hist. Rev, 17(2), 135–151. https://doi.org/10.1080/17496970701383621
Lagerfeld, K. (2013). The world according to Karl: The wit and wisdom of Karl Lagerfeld. Flammarion.
Langkjaer, M. A. (2015). Between Rococo and Bildung in Lagerfeld: Reflections on the significance of Menzel’s Painting “Tafelrunde” for the designer’s lifestyle and aesthetics. Unpublished manuscript of a talk delivered at Fashion Tales 2015—Feeding the Imaginary held in Milan at Università Cattikuca del Sacro Cuore from 18 to 20 June.
Langkjaer, M. A. (2019). Baroque and Bildung in the creative practice and personal style of Karl Lagerfeld: Towards a biographical reinstatement of the individual designer. Fashion Theory, DOI: https://doi.org/10.1080/1362704X.2019.1646558
LCI. (2017). Allemagne, migrants et Shoah: Karl Lagerfeld créé le malaise chez Ardisson. 12 November. https://www.lci.fr/international/video-allemagne-migrants-et-shoah-quand-karl-lagerfeld-cree-le-malaise-dans-salut-les-terriens-ardisson-2070196.html
Linley, P. A., Joseph, S., Harrington, S., & Wood, A. M. (2006). Positive psychology: Past, present and (possible) future. Journal of Positive Psychology, 1, 3–16. https://doi.org/10.1080/17439760500372796
Mayer, C.-H. (2019). Opening the black box part 1: On collective shame in the German society. In C.-H. Mayer & E. Vanderheiden (Eds.), The bright side of shame: Transforming and growing through practical applications in cultural contexts (pp. 3–10). Springer.
Mayer, C.-H. (2020). Transforming shame in the workplace, leadership and organisation: Contributions of Positive Psychology movements to the discourse. In S. Dhiman & J. Marquis (Eds.), New horizons in positive leadership and change (pp. 313–331). Springer.
Mayer, C.-H., & Tonelli, L. (2017). “Dream on—there is no salvation!” Transforming shame in the workplace through personal and organisational strategies. In E. Vanderheiden & C.-H. Mayer (Eds.), The Value of Shame—Exploring a Health Resource in Cultural Contexts (pp. 135–156). Springer.
Mayer, C.-H., & Vanderheiden, E. (2019). The bright side of shame: Transforming and growing through practical applications in cultural contexts. Springer.
Mierdorf, N. (2017). Karl Lagerfeld sorgt mit der Aussage zu Flüchtlingen für Aufregung. Welt, 13 November. https://www.welt.de/vermischtes/article170568286/Karl-Lagerfeld-sorgt-mit-Aussage-zu-Fluechtlingen-fuer-Aufregung.html
Murray, T. & Yuan, Y. (2019). 17 of Karl Lagerfeld’s most iconic and controversial quotes. Insider. 19 February 2019. https://www.insider.com/karl-lagerfeld-death-most-iconic-controversial-quotes-2019-2
Odell, A. (2008). Karl Lagerfeld doesn’t like smelly journalists. The Cut, 25 August. https://www.thecut.com/2008/08/karl_lagerfeld_doesnt_like_sme.html
O’Hagan, A. (2015). The maddening and brilliant Karl Lagerfeld. New York Times Style Magazine, 12 October. https://www.nytimes.com/2015/10/12/t-magazine/karl-lagerfeld-interview.html
Orth, M. (1992). Kaiser Karl: Behind the mask. Vanity Fair, February. https://www.vanityfair.com/magazine/1992/02/lagerfeld199202
Ottavi, M. (2017). Jacques de Bascher: Dandy de l’ombre. Séguier.
Piaggi, A. (1986). Karl Lagerfeld: A fashion journal. Thames & Hudson.
Pilbeam, P. M. (1991). The 1830 Revolution in France. Macmillan.
Pomazan, L. (1998). Karl Lagerfeld: His contributions, originality and significance in contemporary fashion design. RMIT University, Melbourne, Australia.
Rawsthorn, A. (1996). Yves Saint Laurent: A biography. HarperCollins.
Scally, D. (2020). Lagerfeld parents were Nazi Party members, new biography reveals. The Irish Times, 15 September. https://www.irishtimes.com/news/world/europe/lagerfeld-parents-were-nazi-party-members-new-biography-reveals-1.4355561#:~:text=Karl%20Lagerfeld%20moved%20to%20Paris,heir%20to%20an%20industrial%20fortune
Scheff, T. (2013). The s-word: Shame as a key to modern societies: Global summit on diagnostic alternatives. http://dxsummit.org/archives/1286
Schelling, F. W. J. (2018). Statement on the true relationship of the philosophy of nature to the revised Fichtean doctrine: An elucidation of the former. SUNY Press.
Schmitt, C. (1925). Politische Romantik (2nd ed.). Duncker & Humblot.
Seligman, M. E., Steen, T., Park, N., & Peterson, C. (2005). Positive psychology progress: Empirical validation of interventions. American Psychologist, 60, 410–425.
Seligman, M. E. P. (2018). The hope circuit: A psychologist’s journey from helplessness to optimism. Public Affairs.
Singer, B. C. J. (1986). Society, theory, and the French Revolution: Studies in the Revolutionary imaginary. Macmillan.
Stern, D. N. (1985). The interpersonal world of the infant. Basic Books.
t-online. (2019). Warum Karl Lagerfeld unbedingt abnehmen wollte. 25 February. https://www.t-online.de/unterhaltung/stars/id_85305756/karl-lagerfeld-85-warum-der-modezar-unbedingt-abnehmen-wollte.html#:~:text=Lagerfeld%20habe%20beschlossen%20abzunehmen%2C%20%22weil,kreiert%20hatte%22%2C%20sagte%20sie.&text=Unterst%C3%BCtzt%20wurde%20der%20Modedesigner%20von,Jean%2DClaude%20Houdret.
Vanderheiden, E., & Mayer, C.-H. (2017). The value of shame. Exploring a health resource in cultural contexts. Springer.
Van Der Meer, E. (n.d.). Karl Lagerfeld accuses Meryl Streep of being cheap in argument over Oscars gown. Grazia. https://graziamagazine.com/articles/karl-lagerfeld-meryl-streep/
Van Dooren, T. (2006). From Brummell to Byron: The story of early nineteenth century British dandyism. Leuven. https://www.scriptiebank.be/scriptie/2006/brummell-byron-story-early-nineteenth-century-british-dandyism
Vignaud, B. D. (2000). Karl Lagerfeld interview. In Christie’s New York. 2000. The Lagerfeld Collection. Vol. 3. Old Master paintings from the Lagerfeld Collection (pp. 19–21). New York, NY: Christie’s.
Volksblatt. (2006). Karl Lagerfeld gegen Laufsteg-Verbot für zu dünne Models. DW. November 25. https://www.volksblatt.li/nachrichten/International/Vermischtes/sda/6275751/coronavirus-ansteckungszahlen-gehen-weiter-zuruck
Walter Ewell. (2017). Karl Lagerfeld interview on Charlie Rose (1993). YouTube. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5M083bCVxrQ
Weir, D. (2018). Decadence: A very short introduction. Oxford University Press.
Wong, P. T. P. (2011). Positive psychology 2.0: Towards a balanced interactive model of the good life. Canadian Psychology, 52(2), 69–81.
Wong, P. T. P. (2017). The positive psychology of shame and the positive psychology of PP2.0. Rev. of E. Vanderheiden, & C.-H. Mayer, The value of shame: Exploring a health resource in cultural contexts. http://www.drpaulwong.com/the-positive-psychology-of-shame-and-the-theory-of-pp20/
Wong, P. T. P., Ivtzan, I., & Lomas, T. (2017). Good work: A meaning-centred approach. In L. G. Oades, M. F. Steger, A. Delle Fave, & J. Passmore (Eds.), The Wiley Blackwell handbook of the psychology of positivity and strengths-based approaches at work (pp. 233–247). Wiley Blackwell.
Wong, Y., & Tsai, J. L. (2007). Cultural models of shame and guilt. In A. Tracy, R. Robins, & J. Tangney (Eds.), Handbook of self-conscious emotions (pp. 201–223). Guilford Press, New York.
Wong, Z. (2012). Karl Lagerfeld cuts loose. Vogue Australia, 26 September. https://www.vogue.com.au/fashion/news/karl-lagerfeld-cuts-loose/news-story/63e9c8979211edd6a7aec3e97d7f8a48
Wurmser, L. (2010). Die Maske der Scham. Klotz.
Author information
Authors and Affiliations
Editor information
Editors and Affiliations
Rights and permissions
Copyright information
© 2021 The Author(s), under exclusive license to Springer Nature Switzerland AG
About this chapter
Cite this chapter
Mayer, CH., Kelley, J.L. (2021). ‘Aristocrat of the underground’: Karl Lagerfeld’s Romantic Self-fashioning as a Meaningful Transformation of Shame. In: Mayer, CH., Fouché, P.J., Van Niekerk, R. (eds) Psychobiographical Illustrations on Meaning and Identity in Sociocultural Contexts . Sociocultural Psychology of the Lifecourse . Palgrave Macmillan, Cham. https://doi.org/10.1007/978-3-030-81238-6_8
Download citation
DOI: https://doi.org/10.1007/978-3-030-81238-6_8
Published:
Publisher Name: Palgrave Macmillan, Cham
Print ISBN: 978-3-030-81237-9
Online ISBN: 978-3-030-81238-6
eBook Packages: Behavioral Science and PsychologyBehavioral Science and Psychology (R0)