Abstract
Coastal areas are an apprized environment by society that will continue to expand rapidly. Traditional coastal protection structures are commonly deployed to protect coastal areas endangered by natural extreme weather events. However, due to their limited efficiency and very high costs, more efficient and sustainable strategies to deal with coastal erosion are imperative. This research work focuses on the assessment of engineering solutions to mitigate and delay coastal erosion. Three different structure geometries (triangular prism shape, single detached breakwater and group of two detached breakwaters) are analysed on a realistic bathymetry, using a combination of numerical models (SWAN and XBeach) to study the influence of those structures on the coastal hydro- and morphodynamics. SWAN was used for hydrodynamics and XBeach for hydrodynamics and morphodynamics assessments. In addition, a comparison between SWAN and XBeach hydrodynamics results was also performed. Structures considered in this study have regular shaped geometries, and are characterized in terms of their efficiency regarding wave height and wave energy dissipation considering different wave regimes and performance in terms of long-term beach morphodynamic impact (sediments accumulation and erosion). The analysis is concentrated in two scenarios, one for low and the other for highly energetic hydrodynamics (the most challenging to coastal zones defence). The obtained results allowed classifying their performance in terms of the impact on wave energy and wave height dissipation, and sediment erosion/deposition patterns.
This is a preview of subscription content, log in via an institution to check access.
Access this chapter
Tax calculation will be finalised at checkout
Purchases are for personal use only
References
Castelle, B., Guillot, B., Marieu, V., Chaumillon, E., Hanquiez, V., Bujan, S., Poppeschi, C.: Spatial and temporal patterns of shoreline change of a 280-km high-energy disrupted sandy coast from 1950 to 2014: SW France. Estuar. Coast. Shelf Sci. 200, 212–223 (2018). https://doi.org/10.1016/j.ecss.2017.11.005
Narra, P., Coelho, C., Sancho, F., Palalane, J.: CERA: An open-source tool for coastal erosion risk assessment. Ocean Coast. Manag. 142, 1–14 (2017). https://doi.org/10.1016/j.ocecoaman.2017.03.013
United Nations, “Transforming Our World: The 2030 Agenda for Sustainable Development A/RES/70/1,” UN General Assembly (2015)
Weinberg, J.: “The Big Squeeze: Coastal megacities face growing pressure from sea and land,” Stockholm Waterfront, no. 1, Stockholm, Sweden, pp. 5–7 (2015)
Gilbert, J., Vellinga, P.: Climate change: the IPCC response strategies—Chapter 5. In: Report prepared for Intergovernmental Panel on Climate Change by Working Groups III, Digitization and Microform Unit (2010), p. 330, UNOG Library (1990)
Rangel-Buitrago, N., Williams, A., Anfuso, G.: Hard protection structures as a principal coastal erosion management strategy along the Caribbean coast of Colombia. A chronicle of pitfalls. Ocean Coast. Manag. 156, 58–75 (2018). https://doi.org/10.1016/j.ocecoaman.2017.04.006
Williams, A., Rangel-Buitrago, N., Pranzini, E., Anfuso, G.: The management of coastal erosion. Ocean Coast. Manag. 156, 4–20 (2018). https://doi.org/10.1016/j.ocecoaman.2017.03.022
SWAN: SWAN manual (2018). http://swanmodel.sourceforge.net/online_doc/swanuse/node3.html (Accessed 08 Feb 2019)
Deltares: XBeach (2019) https://www.deltares.nl/en/software/xbeach (Accessed 12 Feb 2019)
Deltares: Delft3D 4 Suite (structured) (2019) https://www.deltares.nl/en/software/delft3d-4-suite (Accessed 07 Feb 2019)
Capitão, R., Fortes, C.: Análise comparativa entre estimativas do modelo SWAN e medições de agitação marítima efectuadas na Praia da Amoreira, Portugal. Rev. da Gestão Costeira Integr. 11(3), 283–296 (2011). https://doi.org/10.5894/rgci269
Bolle, A., Mercelis, P., Roelvink, D., Haerens, P., Trouw, K.: Application and validation of Xbeach for three different field sites. In: Proceedings of 32nd Conference on Coastal Engineering, 30th to 5th July 2010, pp. 1–14 (2010). https://doi.org/10.9753/icce.v32.sediment.40
Roelvink, D., McCall, R., Mehvar, S., Nederhoff, K., Dastgheib, A.: Improving predictions of swash dynamics in XBeach: The role of groupiness and incident-band runup. Coast. Eng. 134, 103–123 (2018). https://doi.org/10.1016/j.coastaleng.2017.07.004
Roelvink, D.J.A., van Dongeren, A., McCall, R., Hoonhout, B., van Rooijen, A., van Geer, P., de Vet, L., Nederhoff, K., Quataert, E.: XBeach Technical Reference: Kingsday Release (2015)
Mendonça, A., Fortes, C.J., Capitão, R., Neves, M.G., Moura, T., Antunes do Carmo, J.S.: Wave hydrodynamics around a multi-functional artificial reef at Leirosa. J. Coast. Conserv. 16(4), 543–553 (2012). https://doi.org/10.1007/s11852-012-0196-1
Vieira, B.F.V.: Wave hydrodynamics in coastal stretches influenced by detached breakwaters. MSc Thesis in Civil Engineering, University of Minho (2014)
Razak, M.S.A., Nor, N.A.Z.M.: XBeach process-based modelling of coastal morphological features near breakwater. MATEC Web Conf. 203(1007) (2018). https://doi.org/10.1051/matecconf/201820301007
Hanson, H.: Wave transformation (2019). http://www.tvrl.lth.se/fileadmin/tvrl/files/vvr040/3_Wave_transformation_3pp.pdf (Accessed 28 Oct 2019)
Acknowledgements
This work is supported by the Portuguese Foundation for Science and Technology (FCT) [PhD grant number SFRH/BD/141381/2018]. The authors also acknowledge the support provided by the project EcOffShorBe—Eco Offshore Built Environment, n. 37417, R&D cores in Copromoção, 14/SI/2017, NORTE-01-0247-FEDER-037417, supported by ANI (FEDER).
Author information
Authors and Affiliations
Editor information
Editors and Affiliations
Rights and permissions
Copyright information
© 2022 The Author(s), under exclusive license to Springer Nature Switzerland AG
About this paper
Cite this paper
Vieira, B.F.V., Pinho, J.L.S., Barros, J.A.O. (2022). Assessment of Different Coastal Defence Structures to Promote Wave Energy Dissipation and Sediments Retention. In: Sena-Cruz, J., Correia, L., Azenha, M. (eds) Proceedings of the 3rd RILEM Spring Convention and Conference (RSCC 2020). RSCC 2020. RILEM Bookseries, vol 34. Springer, Cham. https://doi.org/10.1007/978-3-030-76465-4_4
Download citation
DOI: https://doi.org/10.1007/978-3-030-76465-4_4
Published:
Publisher Name: Springer, Cham
Print ISBN: 978-3-030-76464-7
Online ISBN: 978-3-030-76465-4
eBook Packages: EngineeringEngineering (R0)