Skip to main content

Thinking Textile Materials from Their Nature: Ethical Materials for Fashion Design with Technological, Social, and Aesthetic Sense

  • Chapter
  • First Online:
Book cover Sustainability in the Textile and Apparel Industries

Abstract

This chapter aims at exposing the development of two research projects that started in 2016 at the University of Bogotá Jorge Tadeo Lozano, which are case studies of living laboratories. From them arise pieces of textile design and sustainable fashion following a systemic approach, by means of a methodology that includes recognition of the fibers, their material and its DNA, cultural analysis and re-signification, in order to establish a productive and ethical system within a mixed work methodology environment, a real articulation and transfer of information between community and academy. In so doing, product design cohabitates in the crossroad of social, scientific, and technological recognition and is thus integrated into a creative act of clothing design which in turn becomes a platform for dialogue that re-signifies culture and proposes product design with a socio-functional approach based on the work with the associated communities involved in the production of natural fibers such as silk, wool, mulberry, and rice starch.

Following a co-disciplinary approach for the softening and improvement of Creole sheep wool with peasant community, through the improvement in textile and fashion design with artisan community of silk in the department of Cauca, the silk nanostructuring for color change and luxury design, the characterization of antibacteriality in Creole sheep wool for functional fashion, and the generation of a biopolymer from rice, we were able to design living laboratories as co-disciplinary spaces that promote sustainability in fashion. In this way, in a country like Colombia, fashion can be thought of as a system with sustainability, local identity, and development that helps ameliorate the precariousness of the production conditions of rural communities, especially of women.

This is a preview of subscription content, log in via an institution to check access.

Access this chapter

Chapter
USD 29.95
Price excludes VAT (USA)
  • Available as PDF
  • Read on any device
  • Instant download
  • Own it forever
eBook
USD 129.00
Price excludes VAT (USA)
  • Available as EPUB and PDF
  • Read on any device
  • Instant download
  • Own it forever
Softcover Book
USD 169.99
Price excludes VAT (USA)
  • Compact, lightweight edition
  • Dispatched in 3 to 5 business days
  • Free shipping worldwide - see info
Hardcover Book
USD 169.99
Price excludes VAT (USA)
  • Durable hardcover edition
  • Dispatched in 3 to 5 business days
  • Free shipping worldwide - see info

Tax calculation will be finalised at checkout

Purchases are for personal use only

Institutional subscriptions

Change history

  • 13 April 2021

    The original version of Chapter 2 was inadvertently published without updating the author’s affiliation. The corrections have been incorporated in the chapter.

Notes

  1. 1.

    Every productive system generates cultural intangibles (represented in dignity of life, transformation capacity from labor force, nourishment of the human spirit from creativity and innovation) that transform the social environment.

References

  1. Urteaga E (2010) La teoría de sistemas de Niklas Luhmann. Contrastes. Revista Internacional de Filosofía vol. XV:301–317

    Google Scholar 

  2. Lotman Y (1999) Cultura y explosión: lo previsible y lo imprevisible en los procesos de cambio social. Ed. Gedisa. http://books.google.pl/books?id=qjiLAAAACAAJ

  3. Porrúa M (2014) Diseño con identidad local: Territorio y cultura, como eje para el desarrollo. Cuadernos del Centro de Estudios en Diseño y Comunicación No. 47: 141–150. https://doi.org/1853-3523

  4. Hollen N, Saddler J, Langford A (2004) Introducción a los textiles. Ed. Limusa, México D.F.

    Google Scholar 

  5. Elices M, Pérez Rigueiro J, Plaza GR, Guinea GV (2011) Usos médicos de la seda. Investigación y Ciencias ago. 2011. https://www.investigacionyciencia.es/files/7373.pdf. Retrieved November 28th, 2018

  6. Neri Guerrero K (2005) Valoración objetiva del pilling en tejidos de calada por análisis de imagen (Tesis de maestría). Instituto Politécnico Nacional - Escuela Superior de Ingeniería Textil, México. https://tesis.ipn.mx/bitstream/handle/123456789/923/681_2005_ESIT_MAESTRIA_karla_neri.pdf?sequence=1&isAllowed=y. Retrieved November 28th, 2018

  7. Porcel Ziarsolo A, Artetxe Sánchez E (2016) Una introducción a los textiles artificiales en las colecciones de indumentaria del siglo XX y su conservación. Ge-conservación n. 9 : 31–44. https://dialnet.unirioja.es/servlet/articulo?codigo=5590157.

    Google Scholar 

  8. Sánchez CM (2016) La industria textil, la segunda más contaminante del planeta. XLSemanal. https://www.xlsemanal.com/actualidad/20160913/cataclismo-la-fast-fashion.html. Retrieved November 28th, 2018

  9. Buarque SC (1993) Planejamento do desenvolvimento sustentável: problemas técnicos de uma nova abordagem do planejamento. Recife 1993.

    Google Scholar 

  10. IICA (1996) Desarrollo Seminario-Taller de Capacitación en Desarrollo Sostenible de la Agricultura y el Medio Rural. Instituto Interamericano de Cooperación para la Agricultura (IICA), Heredia, Costa RIca, Noviembre 1996.

    Google Scholar 

  11. UNESCO (2009) El Decenio de las Naciones Unidas de la Educación para el Desarrollo Sostenible. http://www.urv.cat/media/upload/arxius/catedra-desenvolupament-sostenible/Informes%20VIP/unesco_etxea_-_manual_unesco_cast_-_education_for_sustainability_manual.pdf. Retrieved August 3rd, 2018

  12. Díaz Coutiño R, Escárcega Castellanos S (2015) Desarrollo sustentable. Oportunidad para la vida. Editorial Mc Graw Hill, México

    Google Scholar 

  13. Gómez Gutiérrez C. (2014) El desarrollo sostenible: conceptos básicos, alcance y criterios para su evaluacion. En: Garea Moreda B. et al (2014) Cambio Climático y Desarrollo Sostenible. Bases Conceptuales para la Educación en Cuba, cap. III. Instituto Superior de Tecnologías y Ciencias Aplicadas. Editorial Educación Cubana. La Habana, Cuba, 136 pp. http://www.unesco.org/new/fileadmin/MULTIMEDIA/FIELD/Havana/pdf/Cap3.pdf. Retrieved November 28th, 2018

  14. Pokorny B, Godard J, Hoch L, Johnson J, De Koning J, Medina G, Steinbrenner R, Vos V, Veigelt J (2010) La producción familiar como alternativa de un desarrollo sostenible para la Amazonía. Lecciones aprendidas de iniciativas de uso forestal por productores en la Amazonia boliviana, brasilera, ecuatoriana y peruana. Center for International Forestry Research, CIFOR, Bogor, Indonesia. https://www.cifor.org/library/3325/

    Google Scholar 

  15. Real J (2007) Biopolímeros contra la contaminación. La Gaceta, 8. http://www.gaceta.udg.mx/Hemeroteca/paginas/476/476-8.pdf. Recuperado el 28 de Noviembre de 2018

  16. Amenós FM (1997) Proyectación de hilos. Ediciones de la Universidad Politécnica de Cataluña, 145 p.

    Google Scholar 

  17. Thomas H, Buch A (comps.) (2008) Actos Actores y Artefactos. Sociología de la tecnología. Ed. Universidad Nacional de Quilmes, Buenos Aires.

    Google Scholar 

  18. Aragón Palacios JM (2011) La teoría de sistemas autopoiéticos. Una breve introducción a una teoría radical de la sociedad. Sociología y Tecnociencia vol. 2 No. 1: 1–15

    Google Scholar 

  19. Patiño Mazo E, Chalarca Botero JM, Hoyos Gómez MA (comps.) (2015) Por un diseño crítico y social. 40 años Facultad de Diseño UPB. Ed. Universidad Pontificia Bolivariana, Medellín

    Google Scholar 

  20. Molina Garrido G, Mendoza Simonds L, Ortega Hoyos A, Ochoa Escobar F, Barraza Pava M, Gómez Gómez N, Vallejo Osorio D, Marín Verhelst K, García Jiménez MA, Castillo Pérez JS, Hernández GD, Prieto Jiménez CA, Betancourt de Arco MC, Zúñiga Muñoz M (2017) Tecnologías simbólicas y culturas creativas. La experiencia regional de los Laboratorios Vivos de Innovación y Cultura. Cartagena: Universidad de Bogotá Jorge Tadeo Lozano, 308 pp. https://www.utadeo.edu.co/sites/tadeo/files/node/publication/field_attached_file/pdf-_tecnologias_simbolicas-._completo-_web.pdf

    Google Scholar 

  21. Ledesma M del V (2013) Cartografía del Diseño Social. Aproximaciones conceptuales. Anales del Instituto de Arte Americano 43(1): 97–106

    Google Scholar 

  22. Horta Mesa AA (2015) Investigación: un nodo teorético del diseño. Revista KEPES, Año 12 No. 11: 99–115. http://vip.ucaldas.edu.co/kepes/downloads/Revista11_6.pdf

Download references

Author information

Authors and Affiliations

Authors

Corresponding author

Correspondence to Angela Liliana Dotor Robayo .

Editor information

Editors and Affiliations

Rights and permissions

Reprints and permissions

Copyright information

© 2020 Springer Nature Switzerland AG

About this chapter

Check for updates. Verify currency and authenticity via CrossMark

Cite this chapter

Dotor Robayo, A.L. (2020). Thinking Textile Materials from Their Nature: Ethical Materials for Fashion Design with Technological, Social, and Aesthetic Sense. In: Muthu, S.S., Gardetti, M.A. (eds) Sustainability in the Textile and Apparel Industries. Sustainable Textiles: Production, Processing, Manufacturing & Chemistry. Springer, Cham. https://doi.org/10.1007/978-3-030-38013-7_2

Download citation

Publish with us

Policies and ethics