Modeling Wind-Driven Sea in Shallow Water

  • J. W. Sanders
  • J. Bruinsma


A wind-driven sea in shallow water can be described by a spectral shape given in terms of a small number of parameters. These parameters are a function of the stage of development, defined in terms of the total energy, local wind speed, and depth. The total energy is derived from the energy balance equation in which the dissipation term is nonlinear. The results of the model, in which these concepts are incorporated, are compared with measurements for shallow water in the North Sea in an extreme situation.


Shallow Water Wave Height Dissipation Rate Significant Wave Height Spectral Shape 
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Copyright information

© Plenum Press, New York 1986

Authors and Affiliations

  • J. W. Sanders
    • 1
  • J. Bruinsma
    • 1
  1. 1.Ministry of Transport and Public WorksRijkswaterstaatThe HagueThe Netherlands

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