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Statistical Characteristics of Breaking Waves

  • Yeli Yuan
  • C. C. Tung
  • Norden E. Huang

Abstract

The modification of the shape of the wave spectrum in the high-frequency range and the amount of energy loss, due to wave breaking are examined. The original waves are assumed to be Gaussian, stationary, and of finite bandwidth. Breaking is assumed to occur when the vertical acceleration at any point on the surface reaches g/2. Based on the wave breaking model, an approximate but accurate spectrum of breaking waves and an exact expression of the amount of energy loss due to wave breaking are derived. It is shown that the spectrum which corresponds to minimum rate of energy loss has an upper limit proportional to in the high-frequency range.

Keywords

Energy Loss Wave Breaking Vertical Acceleration Random Wave Convariance Function 
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References

  1. Banner, M. L., and O. M. Phillips (1974): On the incipient breaking of small scale waves. J. Fluid Mech. 77, 825–842.CrossRefGoogle Scholar
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Copyright information

© Plenum Press, New York 1986

Authors and Affiliations

  • Yeli Yuan
    • 1
  • C. C. Tung
    • 1
  • Norden E. Huang
    • 2
  1. 1.Department of Civil EngineeringNorth Carolina State UniversityRaleighUSA
  2. 2.NASA Goddard Space Flight CenterGreenbeltUSA

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