The 1978 Ocean Wave Dynamics Experiment
The Ocean Wave Dynamics Experiment (WAVDYN), an empirical investigation of ocean wind waves in deep, open water, has yielded improved evidence that independently (freely) propagating waves prevail over manifestations of their nonsinusoidal (nonlinear) waveforms. Measurements were made with an array of surface elevation transducers, a two-axis current meter, and a video-based wave-imaging system deployed at an ocean tower during September 1978. Analysis of the array and the video data yielded estimates of directional wavenumber-frequency spectra of signal variance, which were compared with the theoretical wavenumber-frequency relations for free- and bound-wave propagation under the influence of the measured currents. The locations of structure in the spectra indicate the prevalence of free-wave propagation. The video spectra exhibit characteristics indicating advection in excess of that associated with the average measured current. This excess advection is not well resolved in the array spectra, and likely is the orbital flow of the dominant wave near their crests.
KeywordsVideo Data Wind Wave Dominant Wave Linear Wave Theory Weakly Nonlinear Equation
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