Measuring the Nearshore Wave Climate: California Experience
A nearshore wave climate measurement network for the California coastline has been expanded to 16 stations since its inauguration in 1975. The system utilizes a compact slope array to measure wave directionality in shallow water as well as offshore buoys and nearshore non-directional gages. Data are collected and analyzed automatically by a central computer. Plans are being developed to expand the system to provide high density coverage of the whole state coastline.
KeywordsSignificant Wave Height Wave Climate Approach Angle Deep Water Wave Longshore Sediment Transport
Unable to display preview. Download preview PDF.
- Borgman, L. E. 1978. Directional wave spectra from wave sensors, In: Ocean Wave Climate, M. D. Earle and A. Malahoff (Eds.), Plenum, N.Y., (this volume).Google Scholar
- Higgins, A. L., R. J. Seymour, and S. S. Pawka. 1978. A compact representation of ocean wave directionality. (In press.)Google Scholar
- Longuet-Higgins, M. S. 1970. Longshore currents generated by obliquely incident sea waves, In: J. Geophys. Res., 75, 6778–6801.Google Scholar
- Longuet-Higgins, M. S., D. E. Cartwright, and N. D. Smith. 1963. Observations of the directional spectrum of sea waves using the motions of a floating buoy, In: Ocean Wave Spectra, Proceedings of a Conference, Prentice-Hall, Inc., Englewood Cliffs, N.J.Google Scholar
- Seymour, R. J. and A. L. Higgins. 1978A. A slope array for estimating wave direction, In: Proceedings of a Workshop on Coastal Processes Instrumentation, June 16, 1977, La Jolla, CA, University of California, San Diego, Institute of Marine Resources Ref. No. 78–102, Sea Grant Pub. No. 62.Google Scholar
- Seymour, R. J. and A. L. Higgins. 1978B. Continuous estimation of lonshore sand transport, In: Coastal Zone 78 Symposium on Technical Environmental, Socioeconomic and Regulatory Aspects of Coastal Zone Management, American Society of Civil Engineers Symposium, San Francisco, California, March.Google Scholar
- Seymour, R. J. and A. L. Higgins. 1978C. Deepwater wave direction from an intensity array, In: Proceedings, Sixteenth International Conference on Coastal Engineering, Hamburg, Germany, Sept. (In press.)Google Scholar
- Seymour, R. J., A. L. Higgins, S. L. Wald, and A. E. Woods. 1978. California coastal engineering data network second annual report, January 1977 through December 1977, California Department of Navigation and Ocean Development, Sacramento, California.Google Scholar
- Seymour, R. J. and M. H. Sessions. 1976. A regional network for coastal engineering data, In: Proceedings, Fifteenth International Conference on Coastal Engineering, Honolulu, Hawaii, July.Google Scholar
- Seymour, R. J., M. H. Sessions, S. L. Wald, and A. E. Woods. 1976. Coastal engineering data network first semi-annual report, December 1975 to June 1976, Institute of Marine Resources, University of California, IMR Ref. 76–11, Sea Grant Pub. No. 50.Google Scholar
- Seymour, R. J., M. H. Sessions, S. L. Wald, and A. E. Woods. 1977. Coastal engineering data network second semi-annual report, July 1976 to December 1976, Institute of Marine Resources, University of California, IMR Ref. 77–103, Sea Grant Pub. No. 56Google Scholar
- Thompson, W. C. and R. C. Smith, Jr. 1974. Wave groups in ocean swell, In: Proceedings of the International Symposium on Ocean Wave Measurements and Analysis, American Society of Civil Engineers, New Orleans, Louisiana, Vol. I, Sept., 338–351.Google Scholar