Abstract
Runup of irregular waves, modeled as superposition of Furrier harmonics with random phases, is studied in frames of nonlinear shallow water theory. The possibility of appearance of freak waves on a beach is analyzed. The distribution functions of runup characteristics are computed. An incident wave represents an irregular sea state with Gaussian spectrum. The asymptotic of probability functions in the range of large amplitudes for estimation of freak wave formation in the shore is studied. It is shown that average runup height of waves with wide spectrum is higher than that of waves with narrow spectrum.
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Didenkulova, I., Pelinovsky, E., Sergeeva, A. (2008). Runup of Long Irregular Waves on Plane Beach. In: Pelinovsky, E., Kharif, C. (eds) Extreme Ocean Waves. Springer, Dordrecht. https://doi.org/10.1007/978-1-4020-8314-3_5
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DOI: https://doi.org/10.1007/978-1-4020-8314-3_5
Publisher Name: Springer, Dordrecht
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