Abstract
THE TRENDS discussed in the previous chapter are evidence of a major transformation under way in the international structure of the clothing industry. Declining rates of growth in consumption, stagnant employment levels and an increase in the share of the domestic market captured by foreign suppliers were the early symptoms. They were first observed in either the smaller, open economies of Northern Europe or in the wealthy, larger economies of the United States, the United Kingdom and West Germany, where alternative job opportunities in the high-growth era of the 1960s were able to divert possible social unrest and blunt the political consequences. Over time, the conditions fostering this decline spread sequentially to other countries: France in the early 1970s began to show the same symptoms, as did Japan towards the end of the decade. Only Italy, of all the countries studied, managed to endure this period of nearly twenty years of intense competition and emerge with a strong and viable industry.
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Notes and References
John Bragg, ‘Assessment of New Technology’, in Domestic Apparel Program (Washington: International Trade Administration, United States Department of Commerce, 1980).
Paolo Giuiuzza and Sergio Mariotti, Economies of Scale and Multi-plant Operations in a Branch of the Italian Clothing Industry, Working Paper 80–3 (Brussels: European Institute for Advanced Studies in Management, 1980).
See, for example, Caroline Miles, Lancashire Textiles: a Case Study of Industrial Change (Cambridge: Cambridge University Press, 1968).
Uwe Schwarting, ‘Strategies for Survival: the Example of the Clothing Industry’, Intereconornics, Hamburg, January-February 1979, pp. 15–19.
E. Jahan, C. Jaedlicki, M. Lanzzarotti and J. Massini, La stratgie des investisseurs français face à la concurrence des pays à bas salaires (Paris: Institut de l’Entreprise [IEDES], and the OECD Development Centre, 1980) concluded also that offshore assembly favoured net employment generation in France.
For more details on their scope and activities, see Antoine Basile and Dimitri Germidis, Politiques d’attraction des investissements étrangers orientés vers l’exportation: le rôle de zones franches industrielles d’exportation (Paris: OECD Development Centre, 1982).
O. Kreye, ‘World Market Oriented Industrialization of Developing Countries: Free Production Zones and World Market Factories’, in The New International Division of Labour (Starnberg: Max Planck Institut für Sozialwissenschaften, 1977) p. 336, claims that American and West German plant managers in Malaysia’s export-processing zones were achieving productivity rates comparable to those at home in just a few months. P. Tandon, The Case of India, a report for the Free Trade Zone Project of the OECD’s Development Centre, Paris, 1981, compares similar electronics companies both inside and outside of the St Cruz export-processing zone in India and found that those outside the zone achieved only 60 per cent of the productivity of those inside.
Stephen Woolcock, ‘Textiles and Clothing’, in Louis Turner and Neil McMullen (eds), The Newly Industrializing Countries: Trade and Adjustment (London: Allen & Unwin, 1982) p. 37.
Ernst-Jürgen Horn, Management of Industrial Change in Germany, Sussex European Paper No. 13 (Brighton: European Research Centre, University of Sussex, 1982). 43.
Diana Green, Managing Industrial Change? French Policies to Promote Industrial Adjustment (London: Her Majesty’s Stationery Office, for the Department of Industry, 1980) p. 11. She cites a report to the French Senate’s Trade Committee claiming that over 2,000 jobs have been lost due to these foreign investments by French firms.
Ben Evers and Gerard de Groot, ‘The Netherlands’, in Shepherd (ed.), Employment, Trade and North-South Cooperation (Geneva: International Labour Organisation, 1981) p. 133.
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© 1986 Trade Policy Research Centre
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de la Torre, J. (1986). Adjustment Strategies for Sustained Competitiveness. In: Clothing-industry Adjustment in Developed Countries. Trade Policy Research Centre. Palgrave Macmillan, London. https://doi.org/10.1007/978-1-349-08369-5_3
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DOI: https://doi.org/10.1007/978-1-349-08369-5_3
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