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Surf and run-up

  • Part III — Waves and Beaches
  • Conference paper
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Waves on Water of Variable Depth

Part of the book series: Lecture Notes in Physics ((LNP,volume 64))

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Abstract

There is usually a region on beaches, closer to the shore than the area in which waves first break, in which the waves may be modelled by a combination of the finite- amplitude shallow-water equations and bores. Numerical computations of such bores and their run-up have been performed and compared with analytical results. Calculations for a single bore show the run-up, run-down, formation of a “backwash” bore and reflected waves propagating away from the shoreline. A preliminary calculation with periodic bores is shown.

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References

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Authors and Affiliations

  1. Department of Mathematics, University of Bristol, BS8 1TW, Bristol, England

    S. Hibberd & D. H. Peregrine

Authors
  1. S. Hibberd
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  2. D. H. Peregrine
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Editor information

D. G. Provis R. Radok

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© 1977 Springer-Verlag

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Hibberd, S., Peregrine, D.H. (1977). Surf and run-up. In: Provis, D.G., Radok, R. (eds) Waves on Water of Variable Depth. Lecture Notes in Physics, vol 64. Springer, Berlin, Heidelberg. https://doi.org/10.1007/3540082530_142

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  • DOI: https://doi.org/10.1007/3540082530_142

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  • Publisher Name: Springer, Berlin, Heidelberg

  • Print ISBN: 978-3-540-08253-8

  • Online ISBN: 978-3-540-37349-0

  • eBook Packages: Springer Book Archive

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