Basic Notions on Waves and Tides
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The characteristics of wave motion are important for understanding the evolution of a coast. In the first three sections of this chapter we give the definitions of the quantities describing waves and a description of the current instruments and methodologies for their measurement. We describe the network of buoys used for attaining the significant wave height (SWH) time series analyzed in this book. We use a similar approach for tides: some of the theory and the corresponding network of buoys are described.
KeywordsWave Height Tide Gauge Basic Notion Tide Force Radar Sensor
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