Roadmap to Sustainable Textiles and Clothing pp 227-261 | Cite as
Sustainable Business Development Through Designing Approaches for Fashion Value Chains
Abstract
Global fashion value chains are expanding rapidly, driven by forces of globalization. Large-scale outsourcing has led to long lead times and forecast-driven apparel value chains, resulting in increased forecasting errors and overproduction-related difficulties. Typically, in the developed countries in Europe, United States, and Japan, we see the emergence of strong fashion brands as core manufacturing has faded from the scene, leading to several other challenges related to sharing responsibility in the value chain, unsustainable consumption, etc. This has a lasting impact on the key financial performance of the fashion brands along with the detrimental environmental and social impacts, thus challenging the right balance of the strategic vectors for sustainable business development (SBD) in fashion value chains. Various stakeholders have realized that the future of fashion value chains increasingly depend not only on economic sustainability but also on safeguarding the environment, safety, and welfare of those associated with it. In this context, the work addresses these strategic issues motivating the sustainable design of closed-loop fashion value chain to propose a holistic model towards developing a design for sustainable business development (DfSBD).
Keywords
Business development Design for sustainability Fashion and apparel SustainabilityReferences
- 1.Allwood J, Laursen SE, De Rodriguez CM, Bocken N (2006) Well dressed? The present and future sustainability of clothing and textiles in the United Kingdom. University of Cambridge, CambridgeGoogle Scholar
- 2.Awaysheh A, Klassen RD (2010) The impact of supply chain structure on the use of supplier socially responsible practices. Int J Oper Prod Manage 30(12):1246–1268CrossRefGoogle Scholar
- 3.Baden S, Barber C (2005) The impact of the second-hand clothing trade on developing countries. OxfamGoogle Scholar
- 4.Cachon GP, Swinney R (2011) The value of fast fashion: quick response, enhanced design, and strategic consumer behavior. Manage Sci 57(4):778–795CrossRefGoogle Scholar
- 5.Caniato F, Caridi M, Crippa L, Moretto A (2012) Environmental sustainability in fashion supply chains: an exploratory case based research. Int J Prod Econ 135:659–670CrossRefGoogle Scholar
- 6.Charter M, Clark T (2007) Sustainable innovation. Key conclusions from sustainable innovation conferences 2003–2006. The Centre for Sustainable DesignGoogle Scholar
- 7.Chesbrough H (2007) Business model innovation: it’s not just about technology anymore. Strategy Leadersh 35(6):12–17CrossRefGoogle Scholar
- 8.Choi TY, Dooley KJ, Rungtusanatham M (2001) Supply networks and complex adaptive systems: control versus emergence. J Oper Manage 19(3):351–366CrossRefGoogle Scholar
- 9.Chouinard Y, Brown MS (1997) Going organic converting Patagonia’s cotton product line. J Ind Ecol 1(1):117–129CrossRefGoogle Scholar
- 10.Christopher M, Lowson B, Peck H (2007) Fashion logistics and quick response. In: Fernie J, Sparks L (eds) Logistics and retail management: insights into current practice and trends from leading experts, 2nd edn. Konan Page, London, pp 82–100Google Scholar
- 11.Christopher M, Lowson R, Peck H (2004) Creating agile supply chains in the fashion industry. Int J Retail Distribution Manage 32(8):367–376CrossRefGoogle Scholar
- 12.Christopher M, Peck H (1997) Managing logistics in fashion markets. Int J Logistics Manage 8(2):63–74CrossRefGoogle Scholar
- 13.Christopher M, Peck H (2004) Building the resilient supply chain. Int J Logistics Manage 15(2):1–14CrossRefGoogle Scholar
- 14.Clark G (2007) Evolution of the global sustainable consumption and production policy and the United Nations Environment Programme’s (UNEP) supporting activities. J Clean Prod 15:492–498CrossRefGoogle Scholar
- 15.Coletti P, Aichner T (2011) Mass customization: an exploration of european characteristics. Springer, BerlinGoogle Scholar
- 16.De Brito MP, Carbone V, Blanquartd CM (2008) Towards a sustainable fashion retail supply chain in Europe: organisation and performance. Int J Prod Econ 114:534–553CrossRefGoogle Scholar
- 17.Defra (2008) Sustainable clothing roadmap briefing note. December 2007. Department for Environment, Food and Rural AffairsGoogle Scholar
- 18.Deloitte (2013) Fashioning Sustainability 2013: Redisgning the fashion business. In Christiansen AM, Hvidsteen K, Haghshenas B (eds). Deloitte, New YorkGoogle Scholar
- 19.Drew P (2012) Can crowdsourcing really crack corporate sustainability? The Guardian Professional, http://www.theguardian.com/sustainable-business/crowdsourcing-crack-corporate-sustainability, February 2014
- 20.Elkington J (1998) Cannibals with forks: the triple bottom line of 21st century business. Capstone Publishing, OxfordGoogle Scholar
- 21.Ellram LM, Tate WL, Carter CR (2007) Product-process-supply chain: an integrative approach to three-dimensional concurrent engineering. Int J Phys Distribution Logistics Manage 37(4):305–330CrossRefGoogle Scholar
- 22.Ellram LM, Tate WL, Carter CR (2008) Applying 3DCE to environmentally responsible manufacturing practices. J Clean Prod 16(15):1620–1631CrossRefGoogle Scholar
- 23.Emmelhainz MA, Adams RJ (1999) The apparel industry response to “sweatshop” concerns: a review and analysis of codes of conduct. J Supply Chain Manage 35:51–57CrossRefGoogle Scholar
- 24.Eryuruk SH (2012) Greening of the textile and clothing industry. Fibres Text East Europe 20(6A/95):22–27Google Scholar
- 25.Eyhorn F, Maeder P, Ramakrishnan M (2005) The impact of organic cotton farming on the livelihoods of smallholders. Central IndiaGoogle Scholar
- 26.Ferdows K, Lewis MA, Machuca JA (2004) Rapid-fire fulfillment. Harvard Bus Rev 82(11):104–110Google Scholar
- 27.Fine CH (1998) Clockspeed: winning industry control in the age of temporary advantage. Perseus Book, New YorkGoogle Scholar
- 28.Fisher ML (1997) What is the right supply chain for your product? Harvard Bus Rev 75(2):105–116Google Scholar
- 29.Fisher ML, Raman A, Mcclelland AS (2000) Rocket science retailing is almost here, are you ready? Harvard Bus Rev 78:115–124Google Scholar
- 30.Fletcher K (2008) Sustainable fashion and textiles: design journeys. Earthscan, LondonGoogle Scholar
- 31.Fletcher K (2013) Design for sustainability in fashion and textiles. In: Black S, De La Haye A, Entwistle J, Rocamora A, Root RA, Thomas H (eds) The handbook of fashion studies. Bloomsnury, LondonGoogle Scholar
- 32.Fuller DA, Ottman JA (2004) Moderating unintended pollution: the role of sustainable product design. J Bus Res 57:1231–1238CrossRefGoogle Scholar
- 33.Gam HJ, Cao HJ, Farr C, Heine L (2009) C2CAD: a sustainable apparel design and production model. Int J Clothing Sci Technol 21(4):166–179CrossRefGoogle Scholar
- 34.Gandhi A, Magar C, Roberts R (2014) How technology can drive the next wave of mass customization: seven technologies are making it easier to tailor products and services to the wants of individual customers—and still make a profit. Mckinsey & Company, CaliforniaGoogle Scholar
- 35.George K, Ramaswamy S, Rassey L (2014) Next-shoring: a CEO’s guide. McKinsey Quarterly, http://www.mckinsey.com/insights/manufacturing/next-shoring_a_ceos_guide, February 2014
- 36.Gunasekaran A, Spalanzani A (2012) Sustainability of manufacturing and services: investigations for research and applications. Int J Prod Econ 140:35–47CrossRefGoogle Scholar
- 37.Gwilt A (2014) A practical guide to sustainable fashion. Bloomsbury Publishing, LondonGoogle Scholar
- 38.Gwozdz W, Netter S, Bjartmarz T, Reisch LA (2013) Fashion consumption and sustainability among young swede. MISTRA FUTURE FASHION, Project 7: Sustainable Consumption and Consumer Behaviour, http://www.mistrafuturefashion.com/en/media/news/Sidor/Howdoconsumersbehave.aspx, February 2014
- 39.Hunter A, King R, Lowson B (2002) The textile/clothing pipeline and quick response management. The Textile Institute, ManchesterGoogle Scholar
- 40.Kim K, Song I, Kim J, Jeong B (2006) Supply planning model for remanufacturing system in reverse logistics environment. Comput Ind Eng 51:279–287CrossRefGoogle Scholar
- 41.King RE, Hunter NA (1997) Quick response beats importing in retail sourcing analysis. Bobbin 38(7):22–30Google Scholar
- 42.King A, Lakhani KR (2013) Using open innovation to identify the best ideas. MIT Sloan Management Review. Massachusetts Institute of Technology, MassachusettsGoogle Scholar
- 43.Ko E, Kincade DH (1997) The impact of quick response technologies on retail store attributes. Int J Retail Distribution Manage 25(2):90–98CrossRefGoogle Scholar
- 44.Kopczak L, Johnson E (2003) Supply chain management: how it is changing the way that managers think. Sloan Manag Rev 44(3):27–34Google Scholar
- 45.Larsson J (2011) Mass customized fashion: development and testing of a responsive supply chain for mass customised fashion garments. University of Borås, BoråsGoogle Scholar
- 46.Laursen SE, Hansen J, Knudsen HH, Wenzel H, Larsen HF, Kristensen FM (2006) EDIPTEX—environmental assessment of textiles. Danish Ministry of the Environment, Environmental Protection AgencyGoogle Scholar
- 47.Lowson B, King R, Hunter A (1999) Quick response: managing the supply chain to meet consumer demand. Wiley, ChichesterGoogle Scholar
- 48.Ludwig KV, Valente AC (2009) Skills scenarios for the textiles, wearing apparel and leather products sector in the European Union. MunichGoogle Scholar
- 49.Maitland I (1997) The great non-debate over international sweatshops. In: Beauchamp TL, Bowie NE (eds) Ethical theory and business. Prentice-Hall, Upper Saddle River, pp 593–605Google Scholar
- 50.Mattila H, King R, Ojala N (2002) Retail performance measures for seasonal fashion. J Fashion Mark Manage 6(4):340–351CrossRefGoogle Scholar
- 51.Maxwell D, Van Der Vorst R (2003) Developing sustainable products and services. J Cleaner Prod 11:883–895Google Scholar
- 52.May-Plumlee T, Little TJ (1998) No-interval coherently phased product development model for apparel. Int J Clothing Sci Technol 10(5):342–364CrossRefGoogle Scholar
- 53.Mcdonough W, Braungart M (2002) Remarking the way we make things: cradle to cradle new york. North Point Press, NYGoogle Scholar
- 54.McDonough W, Braungart M (2003) Intelligent materials pooling: envolving a profitable technical metabolism through a supportive business community. In: Green@Work, March/April pp 50–54Google Scholar
- 55.Mckinnon A, Cullinance S, Browne M, Whiteing A (2010) Green logistics: improving the environmental sustainability of logistics. Konan Page, LondonGoogle Scholar
- 56.Mont O (2002) Clarifying the concept of product-service system. J Clean Prod 10(3):237–245CrossRefGoogle Scholar
- 57.Mugge R, Schoormans J, Schifferstein H (2005) Design strategies to postpone consumer’s product replacement: the value of a strong person-product relationship. Des J 8(2):38–48Google Scholar
- 58.Mustonen M, Pal R, Mattila H, Mashkoor Y (2013) Success indicators in various fashion business models. J Glob Fashion Mark 4:74–92Google Scholar
- 59.Niessen B, Koefoed O, Skov L, Romano Z, Delfanti A (2010) OpenWear. Sustainability, openness and P2P production in the world of fashion. MilanGoogle Scholar
- 60.Niinimäki K (2010) Product attachments and longevity in sustainable design strategies. In: LeNS conference sustainable design: NOW!, pp 113–120Google Scholar
- 61.Niinimäki K, Hassi L (2011) Emerging design strategies in sustainable production and consumption of textiles and clothing. J Clean Prod 19:1876–1883Google Scholar
- 62.Nurmela J (2009) Trickle down theory—fact or fable? Transitions of consumption models in testing of time series data. Future Consum Soc. Available from: http://www.tse.fi/FI/yksikot/erillislaitokset/tutu/Documents/publications/eBook_2009-7.pdf
- 63.Pal R (2009) Measuring QR in globalised apparel supply chains. In: AUTEX conference 2009, IzmirGoogle Scholar
- 64.Pal R, Torstensson H (2011) Aligning critical success factors to organizational design: a study of Swedish textile and clothing firms. Bus Process Manage J 17(3):403–436CrossRefGoogle Scholar
- 65.Parker GG, Anderson EG (2002) From buyer to integrator: the transformation of the supply-chain manager in the vertically disintegrating firm. Prod Oper Manage 11(1):75–91CrossRefGoogle Scholar
- 66.Perry P, Towers N (2013) Conceptual framework development: CSR implementation in fashion supply chains. Int J Phys Distribution Logistics Manage 43(5/6):478–500CrossRefGoogle Scholar
- 67.Petersen KJ, Handfield RB, Ragatz GL (2005) Supplier integration into new product development: coordinating product, process and supply chain. J Oper Manage 23(3–4):371–388CrossRefGoogle Scholar
- 68.Reinhardt FL, Casadesus-Masanell R, Freier D (2003) Patagonia. BostonGoogle Scholar
- 69.Rissanen T (2005) From 15 % to 0: investigating the creation of fashion without the creation of fabric waste. Kreativ Institut for Design og TeknologiGoogle Scholar
- 70.Sacks D (2010) Fast company, 20 Oct 2010. Available from: http://www.fastcompany.com/mic/2010/profile/nike
- 71.Safizadeh MH, Ritzman LP, Sharma D, Wood C (1996) An empirical analysis of the product-process matrix. Manage Sci 42(11):1576–1591CrossRefGoogle Scholar
- 72.Salvador F, De Holan PM, Piller DF (2009) Cracking the code of mass customization. MIT Sloan Manage Rev 50(3):71–78Google Scholar
- 73.Salvador F, Forza C, Rungtusanatham M (2002) Modularity, product variety, production volume, and component sourcing: theorizing beyond generic prescriptions. J Oper Manage 20(5):549–575CrossRefGoogle Scholar
- 74.Sarkis J (2003) A strategic decision framework for green supply chain management. J Cleaner Prod: Spec Ed Environ Innov 11(4):397–409CrossRefGoogle Scholar
- 75.Schoenherr T (2012) The role of environmental management in sustainable business development: A multi-country investigation. Int J Prod Econ 140:116–128CrossRefGoogle Scholar
- 76.Selldin E, Olhager J (2003) Supply chain integration: direction, extent and balance. In: Jagdev HS, Wortmann JC, Pels HJ (eds) Collaborative systems for production management. Kluwer Academic Publishers, BostonGoogle Scholar
- 77.Sievänen M, Peltonen L (2006) Mass customising footwear: the left® foot company case. Int J Mass Customization 1(4):480–491Google Scholar
- 78.Simon M (1994) Sustainable product design workshop. Design for environment and implementation of environmental aspects in product design. BWI, ZurichGoogle Scholar
- 79.Sum N-L, Ngai P (2005) Globalization and paradoxes of ethical transnational production: code of conduct in a Chinese workplace. Competition Change 9(2):181–200CrossRefGoogle Scholar
- 80.Unione Nazionale Industria Conciaria U (2007) Environmental Report 2006. MilanGoogle Scholar
- 81.Unione Nazionale Industria Conciaria U (2009) Environmental Report 2009, http://www.euroleather.com/socialreporting/reports/ItalySER.pdf,February 2014
- 82.Yeung HT, Choi TM, Chiu CH (2010) Innovative mass customization in the fashion industry. In: Cheng TCE, Choi TM (eds) Innovative quick response programs in logistics and supply chain management. Springer, Berlin, pp 423–454CrossRefGoogle Scholar
- 83.Yunus M, Moingeon B, Lehmann-Ortega L (2010) Building social business models: lessons from the grameen experience. Long Range Plan 43:308–325CrossRefGoogle Scholar