Advertisement

Ocean Wave Directional Spectra by Optical Methods

  • Ming-xia He
  • Chao-fang Zhao
  • Xiao-dong Zhang

Abstract

Ocean wave directional spectrum studies are basic and crucial in the study of ocean waves, and play an important bearing in both theory and application of wave researches (Wen and Yu, 1985). Researches in ocean wave directional spectra depend closely on the survey techniques for waves, which include direct in-situ measuring and remote sensing. In direct measuring with free-floating buoy and sensor staff array, instruments operate either in direct contact with ocean wave or very close to it, this brings about many handicaps and limitations. In the contrary, remote sensing is of incomparable superiority in measuring ocean wave directional spectra.

Keywords

Ocean Wave View Field Directional Spectrum Coherent Noise Slope Spectrum 
These keywords were added by machine and not by the authors. This process is experimental and the keywords may be updated as the learning algorithm improves.

Preview

Unable to display preview. Download preview PDF.

Unable to display preview. Download preview PDF.

References

  1. Donelan, M. A., Hamilton, J., and Hui, W. H. (1985) “Directional spectra of wind-generated waves”, Phil. Trans. R. Soc. Load. A315, 509–562.CrossRefGoogle Scholar
  2. Goodman, J. W. (1965) Introduction To Fourier Optics, McGraw-Hill, pp. 509–562.Google Scholar
  3. Hasselnlann, K. et al. (1973) “Measurement of wind wave growth and swell decay during the Joint North Sea Wave Project (JONSWAP)”, Erganzungs-heft Zeit. Deut. Hydr. Zeit. 12.Google Scholar
  4. He, Ming-xia, Zhao, Chao-fang, and Zhang, Xiao-dong (1990) “Optical detection and information processing for ocean wave”, in Final Tech. Report of State Key Sci-Tech Project. No. 75760604Google Scholar
  5. Kasavich, R. S. et al. (1972) “Directional wave spectra from daylight scattering”, J. Geophy. Res. 80(23), 4535–4541.Google Scholar
  6. Neumann, G. (1953) “On sea wave spectra and a new method of forecasting undergenerated sea beach”, Erosion Board US Anny Corps of Engineers Tech. Mem. No. 43, 42 pp.Google Scholar
  7. Pierson, W. J. Jr. and Moscowtiz, L. (1964) “A proposed spectra form for fully developed wind sea based on the similarity theory of S. A. Kitarigorodskii”, J. Geophy. Res. 69(24), 5181–5190.CrossRefGoogle Scholar
  8. Stilwell, D. Jr. (1969) “Directional energy spectra of the sea from photographs”, J. Geophy. Res. 74(3), 1974–1986.CrossRefGoogle Scholar
  9. Stilwell, D. Jr. and Pilon, R.O. (1974) “Directional spectra of surface waves from photographs”, J. Geophy. Res. 79(9), 1277–1284.CrossRefGoogle Scholar
  10. Wen, Shen-chang and Yu, Zhou-wen (1985) Ocean Wave Theory and Principle of Computation, Science Press, Beijing (in Chinese).Google Scholar
  11. Wen, Shen-chang et al. (1990) “Analytically derived wind wave directional spectrum” (to be published).Google Scholar

Copyright information

© Springer Science+Business Media Dordrecht 1994

Authors and Affiliations

  • Ming-xia He
    • 1
  • Chao-fang Zhao
    • 1
  • Xiao-dong Zhang
    • 1
  1. 1.Ocean Remote Sensing and Ocean Optics LaboratoryOcean University of QingdaoQingdaoChina

Personalised recommendations