Water Wave Kinematics pp 351-365 | Cite as

# Mathematical Modelling of Short Waves in Surf Zone

## Abstract

A numerical model for the propagation of breaking waves is developed. Using an apropriate F.D. scheme in the solution of BOUSSINESQ type of equations, a third-order accuracy is obtained, without the need of including the additional SERRE terms.

By providing the above equations with a suitable dissipative mechanism by introducing a dispersion term (using the Boussinesq eddy viscosity concept), we are able to simulate breaking waves. In this way it is possible to compute both the dissipation of the wave height and set-up, and in the 2-D case, the longshore currents. In the above cases the radiation stresses are genarated automatically.

## Keywords

Wave Height Eddy Viscosity Breaking Wave Hydraulic Jump Surf Zone## Preview

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