Advertisement

Faces of Masculinity: Shaving Practices and Popular Exhibitions of ‘Hairy Wonders’ in Early Twentieth-Century Prague

  • Filip Herza
Chapter
Part of the Palgrave Studies in Globalization and Embodiment book series (PSGE)

Abstract

This chapter examines the historical dynamics of normative hegemonic masculinity in relation to the management of a clean respectable appearance, namely the male beard. The author suggests that the heightened anxiety about beards and shaving in turn-of-the-century Bohemia is to be understood in the three interrelated contexts of the political and national struggles of the time, the gradual medicalization of personal appearance and the emerging market for beauty products. The figure of ‘Lionel’, a popular ‘hairy freak’ in early twentieth-century curiosity exhibitions in Prague, embodied the uncertainties about the normative masculinity of the time and pointed to a general insecurity surrounding male gender performance.

References

  1. Butler, Judith. 1993. Bodies That Matter: On the Discursive Limits of Sex. New York and London: Routledge.Google Scholar
  2. Chen, Mel Y. 2012. Animacies: Biopolitics, Racial Mattering, and Queer Affect. Durham, NC: Duke University Press.CrossRefGoogle Scholar
  3. Coleman, Rebecca, and Mónica Moreno Figueroa. 2010. “Past and Future Perfect? Beauty, Affect and Hope.” Journal for Cultural Research 14 (4): 357–73.Google Scholar
  4. Connell, Raewyn. 1995. Masculinities. Berkeley: University of California Press.Google Scholar
  5. Connell, R. W., and James W. Messerschmidt. 2005. “Hegemonic Masculinity: Rethinking the Concept.” Gender 19 (6): 829–59.Google Scholar
  6. Craig, M. L. 2006. “Race, Beauty, and the Tangled Knot of a Guilty Pleasure.” Feminist Theory 7 (2): 159–77.Google Scholar
  7. Davis, Lennard J. 1995. Enforcing Normalcy: Disability, Deafness, and the Body. London and New York: Verso.Google Scholar
  8. Durbach, Nadja. 2010. Spectacle of Deformity: Freak Shows and Modern British Culture. Berkeley: University of California Press.Google Scholar
  9. Filipowicz, Marcin Łukasz, and Alena Zachová. 2009. Rod v memoárech: Případ Hradec Králové. Červený Kostelec: Pavel Mervart.Google Scholar
  10. Garland-Thomson, Rosemarie. 1997. Extraordinary Bodies: Figuring Physical Disability in American Culture and Literature. New York: Columbia University Press.Google Scholar
  11. Hamlin, Kimberly A. 2011. “The ‘Case of a Bearded Woman’: Hypertrichosis and the Construction of Gender in the Age of Darwin.” American Quarterly 63 (4): 955–81.Google Scholar
  12. Herzig, Rebecca M. 2015. Plucked: A History of Hair Removal. New York: New York University Press.Google Scholar
  13. Jahn, Jiljí Vratislav. 1861. František Ladislav Rieger: obraz životopisný. Prague: Tiskem a nakl. Antonina Augusty.Google Scholar
  14. Jarkovský, Jiří Guth. 1915. Společenský katechismus. Prague: Hejda a Tuček.Google Scholar
  15. Judson, Pieter M. 1996. Exclusive Revolutionaries: Liberal Politics, Social Experience, and National Identity in the Austrian Empire, 1848–1914. Ann Arbor: University of Michigan Press.Google Scholar
  16. Kimmel, Michael S. 1987. Changing Men: New Directions in Research on Men and Masculinity. Newbury Park, CA: Sage. Google Scholar
  17. Kimmel, Michael S., ed. 1995. The Politics of Manhood: Profeminist Men Respond To the Mythopoetic Men’s Movement (And the Mythopoetic Leaders Answer). Philadelphia: Temple University Press; Newbury Park, CA.: Sage.Google Scholar
  18. Kimmel, Michael S. 1996. Manhood in America: A Cultural History. New York: Free Press.Google Scholar
  19. Kodym, František. 1896. Kniha o slušném chování: Průvodce společností i životem. Prague: František Vlastimil Kodym.Google Scholar
  20. Lafferton, Emese. 2007. “The Magyar Moustache: The Faces of Hungarian State Formation, 1867–1918.” Studies in History and Philosophy of Science Part C: Studies in History and Philosophy of Biological and Biomedical Sciences 38 (4): 706–32.Google Scholar
  21. Lenderová, Milena. 2012. “Genderové Stereotypy a konstrukt maskulinity ve společenských katechismech.” In Konstrukce maskulinní identity v minulosti a současnosti: Koncepty, metody, perspektivy, edited by Slabáková Radmila et al., 224–40. Prague: Nakladatelství Lidové noviny.Google Scholar
  22. Lenderová, Milena, Daniela Tinková, and Vladan Hanulík. 2014. Tělo mezi medicínou a disciplínou. Prague: Nakladatelství Lidové noviny.Google Scholar
  23. Machar, Josef Svatopluk. 2013. Z Dějin Vousu. 2. vyd., 1. samost. Prague: Akropolis.Google Scholar
  24. Mareš, Jan. 2012. “Český skauting jako důsledek krize maskulinity?” In Konstrukce maskulinní identity v minulosti a současnosti: Koncepty, metody, perspektivy, edited by Radmila Slabáková et al., 194–207. Prague: Nakladatelství Lidové noviny.Google Scholar
  25. Maxwell, Alexander. 2015. “The Handsome Man with Hungarian Moustache and Beard: National Moustaches in Habsburg Hungary.” Cultural and Social History 12 (1): 51–76.Google Scholar
  26. McKibben, Gordon. 1998. Cutting Edge: Gillette’s Journey to Global Leadership. Boston, MA: Harvard Business School Press.Google Scholar
  27. Mosse, George L. 1998. The Image of Man/The Creation of Modern Masculinity. Oxford: Oxford University Press.Google Scholar
  28. Oldstone-Moore, Christopher. 2005. “The Beard Movement in Victorian Britain.” Victorian Studies 48 (1): 7–34.Google Scholar
  29. Oldstone-Moore, Christopher. 2016. Of Beards and Men: The Revealing History of Facial Hair. Chicago: The University of Chicago Press.Google Scholar
  30. Porter, Roy. 1997. The Greatest Benefit to Mankind: A Medical History of Humanity. New York: W. W. Norton.Google Scholar
  31. Strobach, Vít. 2015. Židé: Národ, rasa, třída: Sociální hnutí a ‘židovská Otázka’ v českých zemích 1861–1921. Knižnice Dějin a Současnosti. Prague: Nakladatelství Lidové noviny, s.r.o.Google Scholar
  32. Tapley, Heather. 2014. “The Making of Hobo Masculinities.” Canadian Review of American Studies 44 (1): 25–43.Google Scholar
  33. Tosh, Peter. 1994. “What Should Historians Do with Masculinity? Reflections on Nineteenth-Century Britain.” History Workshop Journal 38 (1): 179–202.Google Scholar
  34. Tosh, John. 2005. Manliness and Masculinities in Nineteenth-Century Britain: Essays on Gender, Family, and Empire. New York: Pearson Longman.Google Scholar
  35. Tromp, Marlene. 2008. Victorian Freaks: The Social Context of Freakery in Britain. Columbus: Ohio State University Press.Google Scholar
  36. Urban, Otto. 1978. Kapitalismus a česká společnost: K otázkám formování české společnosti v 19. Století. Prague: Svoboda.Google Scholar
  37. Viták, Antonín Konstantin. 1885. O obcování s lidmi. Nový průvodce dobrou společností. Díl I. Kniha pravidel pro cvik dobrých a jemných mravů, společenských vtipův a domácích povinností. Na základě díla šlechtičny F. Hohenhausenové vzdělal a pořekadly, příslovými a výroky čelnějších básníkův a spisovatelů českých valně rozšířil Ant. Konstantin Viták, gram. učitel a redaktor. Prague: Fr. A. Urbánek.Google Scholar
  38. Walton, Susan. 2008. “From Squalid Impropriety to Manly Respectability: The Revival of Beards, Moustaches and Martial Values in the 1850s in England.” Nineteenth-Century Contexts 30 (3): 229–45.Google Scholar

Copyright information

© The Author(s) 2019

Authors and Affiliations

  • Filip Herza
    • 1
  1. 1.Faculty of HumanitiesCharles UniversityPragueCzech Republic

Personalised recommendations