Runup of Long Irregular Waves on Plane Beach

  • Ira Didenkulova
  • Efim Pelinovsky
  • Anna Sergeeva
Chapter

Abstract

Runup of irregular waves, modeled as superposition of Furrier harmonics with random phases, is studied in frames of nonlinear shallow water theory. The possibility of appearance of freak waves on a beach is analyzed. The distribution functions of runup characteristics are computed. An incident wave represents an irregular sea state with Gaussian spectrum. The asymptotic of probability functions in the range of large amplitudes for estimation of freak wave formation in the shore is studied. It is shown that average runup height of waves with wide spectrum is higher than that of waves with narrow spectrum.

Keywords

Solitary Wave Incident Wave Rogue Wave Rayleigh Distribution Irregular Wave 
These keywords were added by machine and not by the authors. This process is experimental and the keywords may be updated as the learning algorithm improves.
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Copyright information

© Springer Science + Business Media B.V. 2008

Authors and Affiliations

  • Ira Didenkulova
    • 1
    • 2
  • Efim Pelinovsky
    • 2
  • Anna Sergeeva
    • 2
  1. 1.Institute of Cybernetics, TallinnUniversity of TechnologyTallinnEstonia
  2. 2.Institute of Applied PhysicsNizhny NovgorodRussia

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