Extreme Ocean Waves

pp 53-69

Non-Gaussian Properties of Shallow Water Waves in Crossing Seas

  • A. ToffoliAffiliated withKatholieke Universiteit Leuven
  • , M. OnoratoAffiliated withUniversitá di Torino
  • , A. R. OsborneAffiliated withUniversitá di Torino
  • , J. MonbaliuAffiliated withKatholieke Universiteit Leuven

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The Kadomtsev–Petviashvili equation, an extension of the Korteweg–de Vries equation in two horizontal dimensions, is here used to study the statistical properties of random shallow water waves in constant depth for crossing sea states. Numerical simulations indicate that the interaction of two crossing wave trains generates steep and high amplitude peaks, thus enhancing the deviation of the surface elevation from the Gaussian statistics. The analysis of the skewness and the kurtosis shows that the statistical properties depend on the angle between the two wave trains.