Abstract
This chapter uncovers the most important insights into the challenges encountered by fashion companies that want to realize eco-innovation to market a justified, sustainable brand. This chapter examines the opportunities and risks and highlights the major changes that companies should make within the fashion industry to become more sustainable. To support the main objective, an interview questionnaire was designed to compare sustainability experts’ perceptions with current fashion brand attitudes towards social responsibility. The results indicate that while the current fashion industry is taking steps to become more sustainable, this is a slow process. This delay is mainly due to a repetitive pattern: preserving the fashion industry is a vicious cycle where stakeholders do not cooperate to change. Among many others, the first challenge is for governments, businesses, and consumers to become more aware of the importance of sustainability to break the current pattern in which “fast fashion” dominates “slow fashion” and to speed up developments. Based on the interview results, recommendations are made for the fashion industry for its eco-innovation in processes and products.
This is a preview of subscription content, log in via an institution.
Buying options
Tax calculation will be finalised at checkout
Purchases are for personal use only
Learn about institutional subscriptionsReferences
Bowen, H. R. (1953). Social responsibilities of the businessman. New York: Harper & Brothers.
Carroll, A. B. (1979). A three-dimensional conceptual model of corporate performance. The Academy of Management Review, 4(4), 497–505.
Carroll, A. B., & Buchholtz, A. (2014). Business and society: Ethics, sustainability and stakeholder management (9th ed.). Stamford: Cengage Learning.
Carroll, A. B., & Shabana, K. M. (2010). The business case for corporate social responsibility: A review of concepts, research and practice. International Journal of Management Reviews, 12(1), 85–105.
Choi, J., Cobbing, M., Crawford, T., Erwood, S., Harjono, M., & Hojsík, M., et al. (2011). De vuile was van de kledingindustrie: De relatie tussen de kledingindustrie en giflozingen in China. http://www.greenpeace.nl/Global/nederland/report/2011/DirtyLaundry_LR.pdf. Accessed 3 Nov 2017.
Cleff, T., & Rennings, K. (1999a). Determinants of environmental product and process innovation. European Environment, 9(5), 191–201.
Cleff, T., & Rennings, K. (1999b). Determinants of environmental innovation – Empirical evidence from the Mannheim innovation panel and a follow-up telephone survey. In P. Klemmer (Ed.), Innovation and the environment: Case studies on the adaptive behavior in society and the economy (Vol. 6, pp. 315–335). Berlin: Analytica.
Cleff, T., & Rennings, K. (2000). Determinants of environmental product and process innovation – Evidence from the Mannheim innovation panel and a follow-up telephone survey. In J. Hemmelskamp, K. Rennings, & F. Leone (Eds.), Innovation-oriented environment regulation: Theoretical approaches and empirical analysis, ZEW economic studies (Vol. 10, pp. 331–347). Heidelberg: Physica-Verlag.
Clinton, L., & Whisnant, R. (2014). Model behavior: 20 business model innovations for sustainability. http://sustainability.com/our-work/reports/model-behavior/. Accessed 3 Nov 2017.
Dahlsrud, A. (2006). How corporate social responsibility is defined: An analysis of 37 definitions. Corporate Social Responsibility and Environmental Management, 15(1), 1–13.
Davis, K. (1967). Understanding the social responsibility puzzle: What does the businessman owe society? Business Horizons, 10(4), 45–50.
Davis, K., & Blomstrom, R. L. (1966). Business and its environment. New York: McGraw-Hill.
Delmas, M., & Burbano, V. (2011). The drivers of greenwashing. California Management Review, 54(1), 64–87.
Drucker, P. F. (1956). The practice of management. New York: Harper Business.
Drucker, P. F. (1984). The new meaning of corporate social responsibility. California Management Review, 26(2), 53–63.
European Parliament. (2017). Bericht über die EU-Leitinitiative für die Bekleidungsbranche. http://www.europarl.europa.eu/sides/getDoc.do?pubRef=-//EP//TEXT+REPORT+A8-2017-0080+0+DOC+XML+V0//DE#title2. Accessed 27 Mar 2017.
Fashion United. (2016). Global fashion industry statistics – International apparel. https://fashionunited.com/global-fashion-industry-statistics. Accessed 3 Nov 2017.
Freeman, E. R. (1984). Strategic management: A stakeholder approach. Cambridge: Cambridge University Press.
Groenendijk, R. (2016). Transparantie in supply chain: Een niet ingeloste belofte? http://www.logistiek.nl/supply-chain/blog/2016/6/transparantie-in-supply-chain-een-niet-ingeloste-belofte-101144749. Accessed 3 Nov 2017.
Hill, N., Walker, H., Beevor, J., & James, K. (2012). Conversion factors for company reporting: methodology paper for emission factors. 6 July 2012. https://www.gov.uk/government/uploads/system/uploads/attachment_data/file/69568/pb13792-emission-factor-methodology-paper-120706.pdf. Accessed 3 Nov 2017.
Houtum, P. V. (2015). MVO en het MKB: Een praktijkvoorbeeld. http://www.mvoloont.com/sites/default/files/uploads/MVO%20een%20praktijkvoorbeeld.pdf. Accessed 3 Nov 2017.
ILO. (2009). Guidelines on occupational safety and health management systems. http://www.ilo.org/wcmsp5/groups/public/---ed_protect/---protrav/---safework/documents/normativeinstrument/wcms_107727.pdf. Accessed 3 Nov 2017.
ILO. (2017). Tripartite declaration of principles concerning multinational enterprises and social policy. http://www.ilo.org/wcmsp5/groups/public/---ed_emp/---emp_ent/---multi/documents/publication/wcms_094386.pdf. Accessed 3 Nov 2017.
International Union for Conservation of Nature and Natural Resources. (1980). World conservation strategy – Living resource conservation for sustainable development. https://portals.iucn.org/library/efiles/documents/WCS-004.pdf. Accessed 3 Nov 2017.
ISO. (2017). ISO 26000 – Social responsibility. https://www.iso.org/iso-26000-social-responsibility.html. Accessed 3 Nov 2017.
Jonker, J. (2014). Nieuwe business modellen. Nijmegen: Academic Service.
Kennedy, S. (2015). A cut above: Which big brands are using more organic cotton? https://goodonyou.eco/big-brands-are-using-more-organic-cotton/. Accessed 28 Feb 2018.
Koppert, P., & Brouw, H. O. (2017). Roadmap circulair textiel. May 2017. https://www.afvalcirculair.nl/publish/pages/105419/roadmap_circulair_textiel_juni_2017.pdf. Accessed 3 Nov 2017.
Launois, A. (2008). Consumers go for green products, mintel. 9 April 2008. https://www.bakeryandsnacks.com/Article/2008/04/10/Consumers-go-for-green-products-Mintel. Accessed 3 Nov 2017.
Marsden, C. (2001). The role of public authorities in corporate social responsibility. http://www.alter.be/socialresponsibility/people/marchri/en/displayPerson. Accessed 3 Nov 2017.
Martens, J. (2006). Die öffentliche Armut der Entwicklungsländer, DGB-Bildungswerk, Global Policy Forum Europe, Terre des Hommes: Düsseldorf, Bonn and Osnabrück. http://www.younicef.de/fileadmin/Medien/PDF/oeffentliche_armut_01.pdf. Accessed 3 Nov 2017.
Matten, D., & Moon, J. (2008). “Implicit” and “explicit” CSR: A conceptual framework for a comparative understanding of corporate social responsibility. The Academy of Management Review, 33(2), 404–424.
McGuire, J. W. (1963). Business and society. New York: McGraw-Hill.
OECD. (2011). Guidelines for multinational enterprise. http://www.oecd.org/daf/inv/mne/48004323.pdf. Accessed 3 Nov 2017.
Petersen, T., Quandt, J. H., & Schmidt, M. (2017). Führung in Verantwortung. Wiesbaden: Springer Gabler.
Remy, N., Speelman, E., & Swart, S. (2016). Style that’s sustainable: a new fast-fashion formula. https://www.mckinsey.com/business-functions/sustainability-and-resource-productivity/our-insights/style-thats-sustainable-a-new-fast-fashion-formula. Accessed 3 Nov 2017.
Reuters. (2017). Textielindustrie ontdekt Myanmar: Lage lonen, lange dagen en kinderarbeid. 6 Feb 2017. https://nos.nl/artikel/2156864-textielindustrie-ontdekt-myanmar-lage-lonen-lange-dagen-en-kinderarbeid.html. Accessed 3 Nov 2017.
Rikkert, S. (2013). Maatschappelijk Verantwoord Ondernemen 2.0. April 2013. http://www.ncdo.nl/sites/default/files/Globaliseringsreeks%20deel%206%20onderzoek.pdf. Accessed 3 Nov 2017.
Rossum, M. V. (2012). Goedkope mode bestaat niet. 14 Dec 2012. https://www.nrc.nl/nieuws/2012/12/14/naar-een-groenere-mode-doorbreek-de-cirkel-van-kopen-kopen-kopen-a1482901. Accessed 3 Nov 2017.
SAI. (2017). SA8000 Standard. http://www.sa-intl.org/index.cfm?fuseaction=Page.ViewPage&pageId=1711. Accessed 3 Nov 2017.
Starmanns, M. (2013). Wie viel Unternehmensverantwortung fordern Sozialstandardinitiativen? BSCI, ETI, FLA, FWF und SA 8000 im Vergleich. In G. Burckhardt (Ed.), Corporate social responsibility – Mythen und maßnahmen: Unternehmen verantwortungsvoll führen, regulierungslücken schließen (2nd ed., pp. 97–101). Wiesbaden: Springer Gabler.
Turner, M., & Houston, P. (2008). Sourcing als uitgangspunt van een succesvolle groene strategie, management executive. http://www.managementexecutive.nl/artikel/3475/Sourcing-als-uitgangspunt-van-een-succesvolle-groene-strategie. Accessed 3 Nov 2017.
United Nations Global Compact. (2017). UN global compact progress report. https://www.unglobalcompact.org/docs/publications/UN%20Impact%20Brochure_Concept-FINAL.pdf. Accessed 3 Nov 2017.
United Nations Industrial Development Organization. (2017). What is CSR? http://www.unido.org/csr/o72054.html. Accessed 3 Nov 2017.
Walton, C. C. (1967). Corporate social responsibilities. Belmont: Wadsworth.
Watson, D., Elander, M., Gylling, A., Andersson, T., & Heikkilä, P. (2018). Stimulating textile-to-textile recycling. Copenhagen: Nordic Council of Ministers.
Wieland, J., & Grüninger, S. (2000). EthikManagementSysteme und ihre Auditierung. In T. Bausch, A. Kleinfeld, & H. Steinmann (Eds.), Unternehmensethik in der Wirtschaftspraxis. Munich: Rainer Hampp Verlag.
Wijnia, G. (2016). Mapping obsolete inventory in the Dutch apparel industry. https://mvonederland.nl/sites/default/files/media/Thesis%20-%20Mapping%20obsolete%20inventory%20in%20the%20Dutch%20clothing%20industry.pdf. Accessed 3 Nov 2017.
Witjes, S. (2016). Samenwerking voor een circulaire economie: De verbinding tussen het duurzaam inkoopproces en duurzamere business modellen. Utrecht: Copernicus Instituut voor Duurzame Ontwikkeling.
World Trade Organization. (2016). World statistical review 2016. https://www.wto.org/english/res_e/statis_e/wts2016_e/wts2016_e.pdf. Accessed 3 Nov 2017.
Author information
Authors and Affiliations
Corresponding author
Editor information
Editors and Affiliations
Appendix: Interview Questionnaire
Appendix: Interview Questionnaire
The aim of the expert interviews is to gain valuable insights. The questions contribute to the validity of this research. All the questions asked related to the main question. Within these interviews the following structure has been used.
-
1.
Acquaintance
-
2.
Personal introduction
-
3.
Introduction to thesis subject
-
4.
Interview
-
5.
Discussion
-
6.
Completing
12.1.1 Interview Questionnaire: Fashion Companies
-
1.
How does the company define ‘Corporate Social Responsibility’?
-
2.
What different domains/forms of CSR does the company know in general?
-
3.
What form(s) of CSR does the company already apply?
-
4.
What is / are the main reason(s) to apply CSR?
-
5.
Is the company affiliated with organizations that support CSR? If so, which one(s)?
-
6.
What does the connection with these organizations mean to the company?
-
7.
To what extent is CSR policy included in the company’s internal processes?
-
8.
Are there measurable goals related to CSR in the company’s KPIs? If so, which one?
-
9.
Does the company communicate to customers about CSR? If so, in what way(s)?
-
10.
Is the company familiar with (general) consumer opinion about the use of CSR by retail companies? If so, what is that general opinion according to your company?
-
11.
Does the company experience difficulties communicating with its customers about CSR? If so, what are these difficulties?
-
12.
Are there any plans made by the company to communicate differently/more about CSR in the future? If so, what do they want to change?
12.1.2 Interview Questionnaire: Sustainable Fashion Consultants
12.1.2.1 Personal
-
1.
Could you please tell me about your background in sustainable fashion and why sustainability has become important to you?
-
2.
What has been your greatest lesson as an expert in sustainability?
-
3.
What do you see as the biggest changes in sustainable fashion from five years ago to today?
12.1.2.2 Sustainability and CSR
-
4.
Sustainability is trending. It is a hot topic that consists of many definitions. In what way should you describe sustainability best with regards to businesses?
-
5.
Why should fashion companies care about sustainability and what would they get out of it if they consider sustainability to be important?
-
6.
What are the risks for companies to do business on a sustainable basis? (How do you experience this within your own company?)
-
7.
What are the opportunities for companies to do business on a sustainable basis? (How do you experience this within your own company?)
-
8.
What are the challenges to incorporating sustainability within the company? (How do you experience this within your own company?)
12.1.2.3 Transparency
-
9.
As you may know, Fashion for Good has developed a sewing robot that makes it possible to produce clothes closer to the consumer. This technology makes the production of clothing cheaper, resulting in a reduction in transportation, supplies and CO2 emissions. In what way do you think this will affect workers in production countries such as Bangladesh? Will there be a future for them after this development/automation?
-
10.
In what way do companies/you control the working conditions in production countries today?
-
11.
How do companies/you build sustainable relationships with producers and suppliers?
-
12.
How do companies/you find the right factories that produce durably?
-
13.
Integrating sustainability means adjusting the business model. What could companies do in terms of sourcing, environmental friendly raw materials, and working conditions? (How and in what way do/did you accomplish this within your own business?)
-
14.
How important is sustainability for the marketing department? Has it become a way to (successfully) distinguish your company from the competition?
-
15.
Why do companies ‘act’ sustainable only to get a better reputation?
-
16.
Do you believe that these companies will eventually fall because they cannot meet the actual standards? Why?
-
17.
Why do you think there is, in terms of sustainability, such a big ‘gap’ in what companies claim they do and what they actually do?
-
18.
If you had to advise organizations with regard to launching a sustainable fashion brand, what would you recommend?
12.1.2.4 Circular Economy
-
19.
In recent years, the concept of a ‘circular economy’ has risen exponentially. Do you think this is a term trend, or do you really think it is the future? Why?
-
20.
At the end of last year, the Dutch government decided that the Netherlands should be a circular economy by 2050. This means producing with less raw materials and energy, reuse and recycling, and not affecting biodiversity. Do you think that this will continue to be intentional, or will it really work and what is needed?
-
21.
A circular economy means that everyone must cooperate. How do you think we can ever achieve this?
-
22.
Today, we live quite individually. Do you think organizations can also be sceptical? In other words, with regards to transparency, how will companies deal with sharing their own information? (How do you accomplish this?)
-
23.
Who will and who will not survive?
12.1.2.5 Consumer (Behaviour)
-
24.
Many consumers are willing to invest in fair and environmentally friendly clothes, but in reality, they do this only moderately. What are the obstacles?
-
25.
Is there a way to offer the same prices as non-durable products? Why does this (or not) prove to be difficult?
-
26.
In what way can the marketing department contribute to fulfilling the global intentions? In other words, what can marketers do to influence the behaviour? (Not only the buying behaviour, but the overall behaviour that sustainability is needed).
-
27.
Do you think companies have the responsibility to encourage young people to buy durable clothing items? Why?
-
28.
Do you believe in a future where clothes are leased? Why (not)?
Rights and permissions
Copyright information
© 2018 Springer International Publishing AG, part of Springer Nature
About this chapter
Cite this chapter
Cleff, T., van Driel, G., Mildner, LM., Walter, N. (2018). Corporate Social Responsibility in the Fashion Industry: How Eco-Innovations Can Lead to a (More) Sustainable Business Model in the Fashion Industry. In: Horbach, J., Reif, C. (eds) New Developments in Eco-Innovation Research. Sustainability and Innovation. Springer, Cham. https://doi.org/10.1007/978-3-319-93019-0_12
Download citation
DOI: https://doi.org/10.1007/978-3-319-93019-0_12
Published:
Publisher Name: Springer, Cham
Print ISBN: 978-3-319-93018-3
Online ISBN: 978-3-319-93019-0
eBook Packages: Economics and FinanceEconomics and Finance (R0)