‘Going Native?'

1. Front Matter

   Pages i-xii

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2. Introduction

   • Alejandro Colás, Daniel Monterescu, Ronald Ranta

   Pages 1-20

3. Beginnings: Hybrid Food Cultures and Foodways

   1. Front Matter

      Pages 21-21

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   2. Spanish Settlers and Andean Food Systems

      • Lisa Markowitz

      Pages 23-46

   3. What Belongs in the “Federal Diet”? Depictions of a National Cuisine in the Early American Republic

      • Peter Mabli

      Pages 47-63

   4. The Taste of Colonialism? Changing Norms of Rice Production and Consumption in Modern Taiwan

      • Yujen Chen

      Pages 65-84

   5. ‘Like the Papacy of Mexican Cuisine’: Mayoras and Traditional Foods in Contemporary Mexico

      • Claudia Prieto-Piastro, Alejandro Colás

      Pages 85-106

4. From Erasure to Decolonisation

   1. Front Matter

      Pages 107-107

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   2. Unsettling the History of Macadamia Nuts in Northern New South Wales

      • Adele Wessell

      Pages 109-126

   3. Definitions of Hawaiian Food: Evidence of Settler Colonialism in Selected Cookbooks from the Hawaiian Islands (1896–2021)

      • Laura Kitchings

      Pages 127-146

   4. Decolonising Israeli Food? Between Culinary Appropriation and Recognition in Israel/Palestine

      • Ronald Ranta, Daniel Monterescu

      Pages 147-171

   5. ‘Uneasy Lies the Head That Wears the Crown’: Lamb or Kangaroo, Which Should Reign Supreme? The Implications of Heroising a Settler Colonial Food Icon as National Identity

      • Jacqueline Newling

      Pages 173-199

5. After Decolonisation?

   1. Front Matter

      Pages 201-201

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   2. “A Manly Amount of Wreckage”: South African Food Culture and Settler Belonging in Ivan Vladislavić’s Double Negative

      • Nitzan Tal

      Pages 203-220

   3. Sustaining the Memory of Colonial Algeria Through Food

      • Amy L. Hubbell, Jorien van Beukering

      Pages 221-245

   4. The Predicaments of Settler Gastrocolonialism

      • Lorenzo Veracini

      Pages 247-259

6. Back Matter

   Pages 261-277

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This volume offers a comparative survey of diverse settler colonial experiences in relation to food, food culture and foodways - how the latter are constructed, maintained, revolutionised and, in some cases, dissolved. What do settler colonial foodways and food cultures look like? Are they based on an imagined colonial heritage, do they embrace indigenous repertoires or invent new hybridised foodscapes? What are the socio-economic and political dynamics of these cultural transformations? In particular, this volume focuses on three key issues: the evolution of settler colonial identities and states; their relations vis-à-vis indigenous populations; and settlers’ self-indigenisation – the process through which settlers transform themselves into the native population, at least in their own eyes. These three key issues are crucial in understanding settler-indigenous relations and the rise of settler colonial identities and states. 

• sociology of food
• indigenous populations
• cultural appropriation
• gastrocolonialism
• settler colonial heritage

“​A fascinating and complex account of power, race and privilege, this innovative volume describes the centrality of food to global and local histories of inequality and dominance.” (Raul Matta, University of Göttingen, Germany)

“This is a clever, insightful, and original volume that interrogates the subtleties and complexities of settler colonial structures and power relations. It demonstrates the utility and importance of food as an analytical tool and food studies as a critical discipline.” (Nir Avieli, Ben Gurion University of the Negev, Israel)

• Department of Politics and International Relations, Kingston University, Kingston upon Thames, UK

  Ronald Ranta

• Department of Politics Birkbeck, University of London, London, UK

  Alejandro Colás

• Department of Sociology and Social Anthropology, Central European University, Vienna, Austria

  Daniel Monterescu

Ronald Ranta is Senior Lecturer in Politics and International Relations at the Kingston University London, UK. As a former chef, he has written extensively on the subject of food and identity, particularly national identity.

Alejandro Colás is Professor of International Relations at Birkbeck, University of London, UK. 



Daniel Monterescu is Associate Professor of Urban Anthropology and Food Studies at Central European University, Vienna, Austria. 

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