© 2020

Practical Aspects of Cosmetic Testing

How to Set up a Scientific Study in Skin Physiology

  • Joachim W. Fluhr

Table of contents

  1. Front Matter
    Pages i-x
  2. Legal Aspects of Cosmetic Testing

    1. Front Matter
      Pages 1-1
    2. Oliver Wunderlich
      Pages 3-14
    3. Hristo Petrov Dobrev
      Pages 15-25
    4. Betsy Hughes-Formella, Nicole Braun, Ulrike Heinrich
      Pages 27-31
    5. Joachim W. Fluhr, G. E. Piérard, C. Piérard-Franchimont
      Pages 33-41
    6. Sinéad Hickey, Stephen Barton
      Pages 43-62
  3. General Aspects of Cosmetic Testing

    1. Front Matter
      Pages 63-63
    2. Oliver Wunderlich
      Pages 65-73
    3. Ragna Williams
      Pages 75-77
    4. Ragna Williams
      Pages 79-83
    5. Gabriel Khazaka
      Pages 85-90
    6. Enzo Berardesca, Norma Cameli
      Pages 91-101
    7. Betsy Hughes-Formella, Nicole Braun, Ulrike Heinrich, Carmen Theek
      Pages 103-109
    8. Hristo Dobrev
      Pages 111-123
  4. Practical Aspects of Testing: Typical Examples of Test Settings

    1. Front Matter
      Pages 125-125
    2. Razvigor Darlenski, Joachim W. Fluhr
      Pages 127-145
    3. Razvigor Darlenski, Theresa Callaghan, Joachim W. Fluhr
      Pages 147-158
    4. Hristo Dobrev
      Pages 159-176
    5. C. Thieulin, R. Vargiolu, Hassan Zahouani
      Pages 177-187

About this book


Skin physiology assessment is moving from a descriptive approach to a deeper understanding of biophysical and biochemical processes in the stratum corneum, such as epidermal barrier function and stratum corneum hydration. New, non-invasive approaches offer reliable and reproducible methods for product testing in the pharmaceutical and cosmetic industry, as well as in basic research. While standard instruments focus on functional aspects, innovative devices offer a deeper understanding of underlying mechanisms.

This book discusses the assessment of skin physiology and of skin functions in clinical studies using non-invasive biophysical instruments, offering readers a comprehensive guide to planning, performing and evaluating the results of scientific studies in skin measurement and the legal framework for these studies. Written by leading experts in the field, it focuses on practical aspects of non-invasive measurements. After introducing the legal aspects of the current framework for clinical cosmetic studies and basic research in cosmetology, it explores the technical practicalities of organizing a testing lab and the pre-requirements for planning a study. The third and main section addresses specific topics in cosmetic testing e.g. skin hydration, and also includes chapters on sensory aspects and in vivo skin structure vizualization.   

This new, updated edition of Practical Aspects of Cosmetic Testing is a valuable tool for researchers, students, and medical staff wanting to gain insights into how best to assess skin functions in controlled studies using non-invasive biophysical instruments.


skin physiology stratum corneum product testing skin measurements skin testing laboratory requirements testing devices skin functions controlled studies biophysical instruments

Editors and affiliations

  • Joachim W. Fluhr
    • 1
  1. 1.Charité – Universitätsmedizin, BerlinGermany

About the editors

Joachim W. Fluhr, M.D., is an Adjunct Professor at the Department of Dermatology, Charité Universitätsmedizin, Berlin, and a Research Associate at the Dept. of Dermatology and Allergology. After completing his medical training at the University of Mainz, Germany and the University of Strasbourg, France, and earning his degree in 1992, he served as a dermatology resident at the Hospital of Karlsruhe, and visiting researcher at IRCCS Polyclinic S. Matteo, Pavia, Italy, earning a postdoctoral fellowship in 2002 after two years with P. Elias and K. Feingold. Dr Fluhr is board member of the International Society for Biophysics and Imaging of the Skin (ISBS). He has authored over 180 international, peer-reviewed original publications (H-Index 63), 250 presentations at international meetings (both oral and poster), 20 book chapters and edited 6 books. He is an associate editor of the journals Skin Pharmacology and Physiology; Cosmetics, and an editorial board member of the journals Skin Research and TechnologyInternational Journal of Cosmetic ScienceBiomedical and Biopharmaceutical Research and International Journal of Dermatology and Venereology.

Bibliographic information

  • Book Title Practical Aspects of Cosmetic Testing
  • Book Subtitle How to Set up a Scientific Study in Skin Physiology
  • Editors Joachim W. Fluhr
  • DOI
  • Copyright Information Springer Nature Switzerland AG 2020
  • Publisher Name Springer, Cham
  • eBook Packages Medicine Medicine (R0)
  • Hardcover ISBN 978-3-030-44966-7
  • Softcover ISBN 978-3-030-44969-8
  • eBook ISBN 978-3-030-44967-4
  • Edition Number 2
  • Number of Pages X, 317
  • Number of Illustrations 10 b/w illustrations, 24 illustrations in colour
  • Additional Information Springer-Verlag Berlin Heidelberg
  • Topics Dermatology
    Pharmaceutical Sciences/Technology
    Human Physiology
  • Buy this book on publisher's site


“The audience is dermatologists and scientists who work in cosmetics development of products for consumer use. … This is a useful reference for scientists, cosmetic chemists, and dermatologists in the cosmetic industry contemplating a career in providing assessment services for these companies.” (Patricia Wong, Doody's Book Reviews, October 30, 2020)