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Water Wave Kinematics

  • Book
  • © 1990

Overview

Editors:
  1. A. Tørum

    1. Norwegian Hydrotechnical Laboratory, Norwegian Institute of Technology, Trondheim, Norway

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  2. O. T. Gudmestad

    1. Statoil, Stavanger, Norway

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    You can also search for this editor in PubMed   Google Scholar

Part of the book series: NATO Science Series E: (NSSE, volume 178)

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Table of contents (53 chapters)

  2. Shallow Water Wave Kinematics

    1. Front Matter

      Pages 349-349
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    2. Mathematical Modelling of Short Waves in Surf Zone

      • Th. Karambas, Chr. Koutitas
      Pages 351-365

    3. Free and Forced Cross-Shore Long Waves

      • H. A. Schäffer, I. G. Jonsson, I. A. Svendsen
      Pages 367-385

    4. Computation of Nonlinear Wave Kinematics During Propagation and Runup on a Slope

      • S. Grilli, I. A. Svendsen
      Pages 387-412

    5. Field Observations of Wave-Current Interaction at the Sea Bed

      • R. L. Soulsby, J. D. Humphery
      Pages 413-428

    6. Computation of Steep Waves on a Current with Strong Shear Near to the Surface

      • John R. Chaplin
      Pages 429-436

    7. Short contributions

      1. Kinematics of Flow on Steep Slopes
        • A. R. Günbak
        Pages 437-440
      2. Measurement of the Velocity and Turbulent Fields Generated by the Swell in the Vicinity of Walls or Obstacles
        • M. Belorgey, A. Jarno, J. Le Bas, E. Vasselin
        Pages 441-450

  3. Breaking and Freak Waves

    1. Front Matter

      Pages 451-451
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    2. Breaking Waves

      • Søren Peter Kjeldsen
      Pages 453-473

    3. Computations of Breaking Waves

      • D. H. Peregrine
      Pages 475-490

    4. A Comparison of Time-Stepping Numerical Predictions with Whole-Field Flow Measurement in Breaking Waves

      • D. J. Skyner, C. Gray, C. A. Greated
      Pages 491-508

    5. Transformation Characteristics of Breaking Water Waves

      • James R. Tallent, Takao Yamashita, Yoshito Tsuchiya
      Pages 509-523

    6. Turbulence Generation in a Bore

      • Harry H. Yeh
      Pages 525-534

    7. Freak Wave Kinematics

      • Stig E. Sand, N. E. Ottesen Hansen, Per Klinting, Ovet T. Gudmestad, Martin J. Sterndorff
      Pages 535-549
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Keywords

About this book

Water wave kinematics is a central field of study in ocean and coastal engineering. The wave forces on structures as well as sand erosion both on coastlines and in the ocean are to a large extent governed by the local distribution of velocities and accelerations of the water particles. Our knowledge of waves has generally been derived from measurements of the water surface elevations. The reason for this is that the surface elevations have been of primary interest and fairly cheap and reliable instruments have been developed for such measurements. The water wave kinematics has then been derived from the surface elevation information by various theories. However. the different theories for the calculation of water particle velocities and acceleration have turned out to give significant differences in the calculated responses of structures. In recent years new measurement techniques have made it possible to make accurate velocity measurements. Hence. the editors deemed it to be useful to bring together a group of experts working actively as researchers in the field of water wave kinematics. These experts included theoreticians as well as experimentalists on wave kinematics. It was also deemed useful to include experts on the response of structures to have their views from a structural engineering point of view on what information is really needed on water wave kinematics.

Editors and Affiliations

  • Norwegian Hydrotechnical Laboratory, Norwegian Institute of Technology, Trondheim, Norway

    A. Tørum

  • Statoil, Stavanger, Norway

    O. T. Gudmestad

Bibliographic Information

  • Book Title: Water Wave Kinematics

  • Editors: A. Tørum, O. T. Gudmestad

  • Series Title: NATO Science Series E:

  • DOI: https://doi.org/10.1007/978-94-009-0531-3

  • Publisher: Springer Dordrecht

  • eBook Packages: Springer Book Archive

  • Copyright Information: Kluwer Academic Publisher 1990

  • Softcover ISBN: 978-94-010-6725-6Published: 20 September 2011

  • eBook ISBN: 978-94-009-0531-3Published: 06 December 2012

  • Series ISSN: 0168-132X

  • Edition Number: 1

  • Number of Pages: 800

  • Topics: Offshore Engineering, Classical Mechanics

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