Water Wave Kinematics

  • A. Tørum
  • O. T. Gudmestad

Part of the NATO ASI Series book series (NSSE, volume 178)

Table of contents

  1. Front Matter
    Pages i-xiv
  2. Reports from Working Groups

    1. Front Matter
      Pages 1-1
    2. K. F. Lambrakos, O. T. Gudmestad
      Pages 3-7
    3. R. L. Soulsby, G. Klopman
      Pages 9-15
    4. D. H. Peregrine, S. Sand
      Pages 17-20
    5. P. Klinting, J. E. Skjelbreia
      Pages 21-23
    6. A. Cornett, N. Spidsoe
      Pages 25-27
  3. Introductory Lectures

  4. Deep Water Wave Kinematics

    1. Front Matter
      Pages 161-161
    2. Chiang C. Mei, Edmond Lo, Yehuda Agnon
      Pages 163-183
    3. P. Klinting, V. Jagobsen
      Pages 185-200
    4. B. Barnouin
      Pages 201-214
    5. Rodney J. Sobey
      Pages 215-231
    6. N. D. P. Barltrop
      Pages 233-246
    7. Leon E. Borgman, James Allender, Herald Krogstad, Stephen Barstow, Tore Audunson
      Pages 247-263
    8. Alf Tørum, James E. Skjelbreia
      Pages 281-295
    9. J. Skourup, I. G. Jonsson, S. T. Grilli, I. A. Svendsen
      Pages 297-312
    10. Short contributions

  5. Shallow Water Wave Kinematics

    1. Front Matter
      Pages 349-349
    2. Th. Karambas, Chr. Koutitas
      Pages 351-365
    3. H. A. Schäffer, I. G. Jonsson, I. A. Svendsen
      Pages 367-385
    4. R. L. Soulsby, J. D. Humphery
      Pages 413-428
    5. Short contributions

  6. Breaking and Freak Waves

    1. Front Matter
      Pages 451-451
    2. Søren Peter Kjeldsen
      Pages 453-473
    3. D. H. Peregrine
      Pages 475-490
    4. James R. Tallent, Takao Yamashita, Yoshito Tsuchiya
      Pages 509-523
    5. Harry H. Yeh
      Pages 525-534
    6. Stig E. Sand, N. E. Ottesen Hansen, Per Klinting, Ovet T. Gudmestad, Martin J. Sterndorff
      Pages 535-549
    7. Karsten Trulsen, Kristian B. Dysthe
      Pages 561-572
    8. Bernard Le Mehaute, Shen Wang, Tarang Khangaoankar, Douglas Outlaw
      Pages 591-608
    9. Short contributions

  7. Measurements

    1. Front Matter
      Pages 623-623
    2. G. F. Clauss
      Pages 625-632
    3. Short contributions

      1. Harald E. Krogstad, Stephen F. Barstov
        Pages 633-640

About this book


Water wave kinematics is a central field of study in ocean and coastal engineering. The wave forces on structures as well as sand erosion both on coastlines and in the ocean are to a large extent governed by the local distribution of velocities and accelerations of the water particles. Our knowledge of waves has generally been derived from measurements of the water surface elevations. The reason for this is that the surface elevations have been of primary interest and fairly cheap and reliable instruments have been developed for such measurements. The water wave kinematics has then been derived from the surface elevation information by various theories. However. the different theories for the calculation of water particle velocities and acceleration have turned out to give significant differences in the calculated responses of structures. In recent years new measurement techniques have made it possible to make accurate velocity measurements. Hence. the editors deemed it to be useful to bring together a group of experts working actively as researchers in the field of water wave kinematics. These experts included theoreticians as well as experimentalists on wave kinematics. It was also deemed useful to include experts on the response of structures to have their views from a structural engineering point of view on what information is really needed on water wave kinematics.


erosion information instruments kinematics measurement modeling nonlinear wave numerical simulation ocean probability research structural engineering transformation turbulence waves

Editors and affiliations

  • A. Tørum
    • 1
  • O. T. Gudmestad
    • 2
  1. 1.Norwegian Hydrotechnical LaboratoryNorwegian Institute of TechnologyTrondheimNorway
  2. 2.StatoilStavangerNorway

Bibliographic information

  • DOI
  • Copyright Information Springer Science+Business Media B.V. 1990
  • Publisher Name Springer, Dordrecht
  • eBook Packages Springer Book Archive
  • Print ISBN 978-94-010-6725-6
  • Online ISBN 978-94-009-0531-3
  • Series Print ISSN 0168-132X
  • Buy this book on publisher's site