Design and Characterization of Topical Formulations: Correlations Between Instrumental and Sensorial Measurements
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The interaction between cosmetic emulsions and the skin’s surface is an important factor to consider in the development of topical formulations. Two important ingredients in cosmetic formulations are waxes and polymers. The physical and mechanical properties of formulations directly impact the interface skin-formulation. To evaluate this interaction, it is important to study the rheology, texture, and sensory properties. In this context, the aim of the study was to evaluate the influence of waxes and polymers on the rheological behavior, texture profile, and sensorial properties of topical formulations and the correlation between these parameters. The best combination of a wax and a polymer was determined by full factorial design of experiments and applied to develop eight formulations that were tested in relation to rheological, mechanical, and sensorial properties. The polymer helps with the spreadability of the formulation, and the wax had a strong influence on the parameters related to the structure of emulsions. A correlation between these parameters was observed. This way, it was possible to compare theoretical and practical data, except between the flow index and the work of shear. Finally, it was possible to predict sensorial aspects from rheological and texture parameters, making the formulation process easier and more integrated with all stages of the development of new topical formulations. Thus, the present study introduces a new proposal in the development of cosmetics.
KEY WORDSpolymers waxes topical formulations rheological behavior mechanical properties sensory analysis
We thank Fundação de Amparo à Pesquisa do Estado de São Paulo (FAPESP) for providing financial support (grant numbers 2014/11.460-5) and the Coordination for the Improvement of Higher Education Personnel (CAPES) for granting a Ph.D Fellowship to L.S.C.
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