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Dynamics of Barred Shore Profile on the Temporal Scale of a Storm Cycle

  • MARINE GEOLOGY
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Oceanology Aims and scope

Abstract

A model is developed to simulate the morphodynamics of a barred shore profile on the scale of a storm cycle, comprising the phases of high and low wave activity. In the CROSS-PB model, the main mechanisms governing sediment transport in wave shoaling and surf zones are taken into consideration, in particular, skewness and asymmetry of the wave orbital velocities, undertow, and infragravity oscillations associated with wave groups. By comparing calculations with observed data, it is concluded that the model correctly reproduces seaward displacement of bars during a storm and shoreward under moderate or weak wave conditions. The first process is shown to be provided by balance of transport mechanisms when the peak offshore transport is located at the front slope of bar. The second process is conditioned by dominant shoreward transport and its sharp decay over the bar crest. Testing of the model yields estimates for the calibration coefficients, and it is concluded that shoreward sediment flux is mainly controlled by wave asymmetry.

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Funding

The study was carried out under a state assignment (topic no. 0149-2019-0005) with the partial support of the Russian Foundation for Basic Research (project nos. 18-55-34002 Kuba_t, 18-05-00741).

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  1. Shirshov Institute of Oceanology, Russian Academy of Sciences, Moscow, Russia

    I. O. Leont’yev

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  1. I. O. Leont’yev
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Correspondence to I. O. Leont’yev.

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Leont’yev, I.O. Dynamics of Barred Shore Profile on the Temporal Scale of a Storm Cycle. Oceanology 60, 704–712 (2020). https://doi.org/10.1134/S0001437020050112

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