Abstract
On the basis of field experiments and numerical modeling, we show that coastal zones are classifiable according to manifestations of wind wave nonlinearity, which herein is recognized as periodic energy exchange between the first and second nonlinear wave harmonics depending on the average bottom slope and the Iribarren and Ursell numbers. The results offer a basis for developing vulnerability criteria for the coastal zone taking into account its nonlinear dynamics.
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Original Russian Text © Ya.V. Saprykina, S.Yu. Kuznetsov, N.K. Andreeva, M.N. Shtremel, 2013, published in Okeanologiya, 2013, Vol. 53, No. 4, pp. 476–485.
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Saprykina, Y.V., Kuznetsov, S.Y., Andreeva, N.K. et al. Scenarios of nonlinear wave transformation in the coastal zone. Oceanology 53, 422–431 (2013). https://doi.org/10.1134/S0001437013040103
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DOI: https://doi.org/10.1134/S0001437013040103