Advertisement

Impact of Positive Thread Feeding for High-Speed Industrial Lockstitch Sewing Machines: Part II Response with Cotton and Spun Polyester Needle Threads

  • Vinay Kumar MidhaEmail author
  • Vaibhav Gupta
  • Arunangshu Mukhopadhyay
Original Contribution

Abstract

During high-speed industrial lockstitch sewing, the dynamic, thermal, bending and abrasive loading of the thread has a negative influence on the tensile properties of sewing threads. For maximum strength retention of needle thread, a positive thread feeding device is developed which lowers the stitch tightening tension (or peak tensions). Two types of threads, viz. mercerised cotton and spun polyester threads of linear density 40 tex and 60 tex, are taken for investigation. During conventional sewing, there is a significant loss in breaking force and elongation for cotton and spun polyester threads. It is observed that loss in breaking force is significantly lower with positive thread feeding device as compared to conventional sewing, whereas loss in breaking elongation is significantly lower in most of the cases for both cotton and spun polyester threads. The peak tensions observed during sewing with positive thread feeding device are much lower than the conventional sewing. The loss in breaking force and elongation for the cotton threads during sewing is higher than that of spun polyester threads in the case of both conventional sewing and sewing with positive thread feeding device. In both the cases, coarser threads show higher loss in breaking force and breaking elongation during sewing as compared to finer threads. During conventional sewing, the initial modulus of cotton threads decreases significantly, while there is a significant gain in initial modulus of spun polyester threads. With positive thread feeding device, there is a significant improvement in initial modulus for cotton and spun polyester threads.

Keywords

Lockstitch sewing Needle thread Tensile properties Conventional sewing Positive thread feeding device Peak tensions 

Notes

References

  1. 1.
    V.K. Midha, V. Gupta, A. Mukhopadhyay, Impact of positive thread feeding for high speed industrial lockstitch sewing machines: part I development of device. J. Inst. Eng. (communicated)Google Scholar
  2. 2.
    G. Sundaresan, K.R. Salhotra, P.K. Hari, Strength reduction in sewing threads during high speed sewing in an industrial lockstitch machine: part II effect of thread and fabric properties. Int. J. Cloth. Sci. Technol. 10(1), 64–79 (1998)CrossRefGoogle Scholar
  3. 3.
    V.K. Midha, V.K. Kothari, R. Chattopadhyay, A. Mukhopadhyay, Effect of high speed sewing on the tensile properties of sewing thread at different stages of sewing. Int. J. Cloth. Sci. Technol. 21(4), 217–238 (2009)CrossRefGoogle Scholar
  4. 4.
    W.A. Deery, N.H. Chamberlain, A study of thread tension variation during the work cycle in a lockstitch sewing machine, England, (Report No. 15). The Clothing Institute, London (1964)Google Scholar
  5. 5.
    N.G. Greenberg, An instrument for measurement of thread dynamic tension characteristics during the sewing operation. Cloth. Res. J. 3(2), 77–84 (1975)Google Scholar
  6. 6.
    T. Horino, Y. Miura, Y. Ando, K. Sakamoto, Simultaneous measurements of needle thread tension and check spring motion of lockstitch sewing machine for industrial use. J. Text. Mach. Soc. Jpn. 28(2), 30–37 (1982)CrossRefGoogle Scholar
  7. 7.
    Y. Kamata, R. Kinoshita, S. Ishikawa, K. Fujisaki, Disengagement of needle thread from rotating hook, effects of its timing on tightening tension on industrial single needle lockstitch sewing machine. J. Text. Mach. Soc. Jpn. 30(2), 40–49 (1984)Google Scholar
  8. 8.
    T. Matsubara, Y. Jinbo, Analysis approach for stitch construction and stitch tightening of lockstitch sewing machine. J. Soc. Fiber Sci. Technol. 40(10), T387–394 (1984)Google Scholar
  9. 9.
    W.R. Kennon, S.G. Hayes, The effects of feed retardation on lockstitch sewing. J. Text. Inst. 91(4), 509–522 (2000)CrossRefGoogle Scholar
  10. 10.
    D.J. Lojen, J. Gersak, Study of the tensile force of thread in relation to its pre-tension. Int. J. Cloth. Sci. Technol. 13(3/4), 240–250 (2001)CrossRefGoogle Scholar
  11. 11.
    D.J. Lojen, J. Gersak, Thread loadings in different measuring positions on the sewing machine. Text. Res. J. 75(6), 498–506 (2005)CrossRefGoogle Scholar
  12. 12.
    A.N. Sai Krishnan, A. Kumar, Design of sewing thread tension measuring device. Ind. J. Fiber Text. Res. 35(1), 65–67 (2010)Google Scholar
  13. 13.
    R.S. Rengasamy, D.S. Wesley, Effect of thread structure on tension peaks during lockstitch sewing. Autex Res. J. 11(1), 1–5 (2011)Google Scholar
  14. 14.
    R.S. Rengasamy, D.S. Wesley, Study on dynamic needle thread tensions in a single needle lock stitch sewing machine. I. Effect of stitch length, check spring tension, fabric feed timing and needle thread in-take length. Fiber Polym. 15(8), 1766–1772 (2014)CrossRefGoogle Scholar
  15. 15.
    R.S. Rengasamy, D.S. Wesley, Study on dynamic needle thread tensions in a single needle lock stitch sewing machine. II. Effect of sewing speed, thickness of fabric plies, thread linear density and pre-tensions of threads. Fiber Polym. 15(8), 1773–1778 (2014)CrossRefGoogle Scholar
  16. 16.
    M. Jankoska, G. Demboski, The influence of the sewing speed and fabric thickness on sewing machine stitch formation parameters. Adv. Technol. 6(2), 72–77 (2017)CrossRefGoogle Scholar
  17. 17.
    G. Sundaresan, P.K. Hari, K.R. Salhotra, Strength reduction in sewing threads during high speed sewing in an industrial lockstitch machine: part I mechanism of thread strength reduction. Int. J. Cloth. Sci. Technol. 9(5), 334–345 (1997)CrossRefGoogle Scholar
  18. 18.
    V.K. Midha, A. Mukhopadhyay, R. Chattopadhyay, V.K. Kothari, Studies on the changes in tensile properties of sewing thread at different sewing stages. Text. Res. J. 79(13), 1155–1167 (2009)CrossRefGoogle Scholar
  19. 19.
    D.S. Wesley, R.S. Rengasamy, Changes in tensile properties of needle thread in lock stitch sewing. Fiber Polym 18(2), 390–399 (2017)CrossRefGoogle Scholar

Copyright information

© The Institution of Engineers (India) 2019

Authors and Affiliations

  • Vinay Kumar Midha
    • 1
    Email author
  • Vaibhav Gupta
    • 1
  • Arunangshu Mukhopadhyay
    • 1
  1. 1.Department of Textile TechnologyDr B R Ambedkar National Institute of Technology JalandharJalandharIndia

Personalised recommendations