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Statistical Analyses of Wave Height Distribution for Multidirectional Irregular Waves over A Sloping Bottom

Abstract

The main objective of this paper is to examine the influences of both the principal wave direction and the directional spreading parameter of the wave energy on the wave height evolution of multidirectional irregular waves over an impermeable sloping bottom and to propose an improved wave height distribution model based on an existing classical formula. The numerical model FUNWAVE 2.0, based on a fully nonlinear Boussinesq equation, is employed to simulate the propagation of multidirectional irregular waves over the sloping bottom. Comparisons of wave heights derived from wave trains with various principal wave directions and different directional spreading parameters are conducted. Results show that both the principal wave direction and the wave directional spread have significant influences on the wave height evolution on a varying coastal topography. The shoaling effect for the wave height is obviously weakened with the increase of the principal wave direction and with the decrease of the directional spreading parameter. With the simulated data, the classical Klopman wave height distribution model is improved by considering the influences of both factors. It is found that the improved model performs better in describing the wave height distribution for the multidirectional irregular waves in shallow water.

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Correspondence to Hong-zhou Chen.

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Foundation item

This research is financially supported by the National Natural Science Foundation of China (Grant No. 51809039), the Natural Science Foundation of Jiangsu Province (Grant No. BK20201455), the Natural Science Foundation of the Jiangsu Higher Education Institutions (Grant No. 20KJD170005) and the Qing Lan Project of Jiangsu Universities.

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Gao, Jl., Chen, Hz., Mei, Ll. et al. Statistical Analyses of Wave Height Distribution for Multidirectional Irregular Waves over A Sloping Bottom. China Ocean Eng 35, 504–517 (2021). https://doi.org/10.1007/s13344-021-0046-8

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Key words

  • wave height distribution
  • multidirectional waves
  • irregular waves
  • sloping bottom
  • FUNWAVE 2.0 model