Abstract
The laboratory experiment and numerical simulations of wave-driven longshore currents by random waves on barred beaches with slopes of 1:100 and 1:40 were conducted to investigate the bimodal feature of mean longshore currents, with emphasis on the location and ratio of two peaks of longshore currents. The location and ratio of two peaks are controlled by the sand bar. The influences of wave heights and beach slopes on the longshore currents are discussed. Numerical simulations were also performed to compute the measured velocity profile, with the emphasis on the effect of lateral mixing, bottom friction and surface rollers on numerical results.
This is a preview of subscription content, log in via an institution to check access.
Similar content being viewed by others
References
Birkemeier, W. A., 1991. Delilah Nearshore Processes Experiment: Data Summary, miscellaneous reports, Coastal Eng. Res. Cent., Field Res. Facil., US Army Eng. Waterw. Exp. Sta., Vicksburg, Miss.
Castelle, B., Bonneton, P., Sénéchal, N., Dupuis, H., Butel, R. and Michel, D., 2006. Dynamics of wave-induced currents over an alongshore non-uniform multiple-barred sandy beach on the Aquitanian Coast, France, Cont. Shelf Res., 26(1): 113–131.
Church, J. C. and Thornton, E. B., 1993. Effects of breaking wave induced turbulence within a longshore current model, Coast. Eng., 20(1): l–28.
Cui, L., Tong, F. F. and Shi, F., 2011. Numerical simulation of wave-induced currents combined with parabolic mild-slope equation in curvilinear coordinates, China Ocean Eng., 25(3): 457–468.
Dalrymple, R. A., Eubanks, R. A. and Birkemeier, W. A., 1977. Wave-induced circulation in shallow basins, J. Waterw. Port Coast. Ocean Div., ASCE, 103(1): 117–135.
Deigaard, R., 1993. A note on the three-dimensional shear stress distribution in a surf zone, Coast. Eng., 20(1): 157–171.
Duncan, J. H., 1981. An experimental investigation of breaking waves produced by a towed hydrofoil, Proceedings of the Royal Society A: Mathematical and Physical Sciences, 377(1770): 331–348.
Feddersen, F., Guza, R. T., Elgar, S. and Herbers, T. H. C., 1998. Alongshore momentum balances in the nearshore, J. Geophys. Res.-Oceans, 103(C8): 15667–15676.
Goda, Y., 2006. Examination of the influence of several factors on longshore current computation with random waves, Coast. Eng., 53(2): 157–170.
Hamilton, D. G. and Ebersole, B. A., 2001. Establishing uniform longshore currents in a large-scale sediment transport facility, Coast. Eng., 42(3): 199–218.
Kuriyama, Y. and Nakatsukasa, T., 2000. A one-dimensional model for undertow and longshore current on a barred beach, Coast. Eng., 40(1): 39–58.
Liang, B. C., Zhao, H. P., Li, H. J. and Wu, G. X., 2012. Numerical study of three-dimensional wave-induced longshore current’s effects on sediment spreading of the Huanghe River mouth, Acta Oceanologica Sinica, 31(2): 129–138.
Longuet-Higgins, M. S., 1970. Longshore currents generated by obliquely incident sea waves: 1, J. Geophys. Res., 75(33): 6778–6789.
Reniers, A. J. and Battjes, J. A., 1997. Laboratory study of longshore currents over barred and non-barred beaches, Coast. Eng., 30(1): 1–21.
Roelvink, J. A., 1993. Dissipation in random wave groups incident on a beach, Coast. Eng., 19(1): 127–150.
Ruessink, B. G., Miles, J. R., Feddersen, F., Guza, R. T. and Elgar, S., 2001. Modeling the alongshore current on barred beaches, J. Geophys. Res. -Oceans, 106(C10): 22451–22463.
Shen, Y. M., Tang, J. and Huang, W. R., 2008. Numerical simulation of long-shore currents induced by regular breaking wave, J. Coastal Res., SI(52): 195–202.
Stive, M. J. F. and De Vriend, H. J., 1994. Shear stresses and mean flow in shoaling and breaking waves, J. Coastal Res., Kobe, Japan, 594–608.
Svendsen, I. A., 1984. Wave heights and set-up in a surf zone, Coast. Eng., 8(4): 303–329.
Svendsen, I. A. and Putrevu, U., 1994. Nearshore mixing and dispersion, Proceedings of the Royal Society A: Mathematical and Physical Sciences, 445(1925): 561–576.
Tang, J., Shen, Y. M. and Qiu, D. H., 2008. Numerical study of pollutant movement in waves and wave-induced longshore currents in surf zone, Acta Oceanologica Sinica, 27(1): 122–131.
Thornton, E. B. and Guza, R. T., 1986. Surfzone longshore currents and random waves: Field data and models, J. Phys. Ocean., 16(7): 1165–1178.
Tong, F. F., Shen, Y. M., Tang, J. and Cui, L., 2010. Numerical modeling of the hyperbolic mild-slope equation in urvilinear coordinates, China Ocean Eng., 24(4): 585–596.
Visser, P. J., 1984. Uniform longshore current measurements and calculations, Proceedings of 19th Conference on Coastal Engineering, Houston, Texas, 2192–2207.
Zheng, J. H. and Tang, Y., 2009. Numerical simulation of spatial lag between wave breaking point and location of maximum location of maximum wave-induced current, China Ocean Eng., 23(1): 59–71.
Zou, Z. L., Wang, S. P., Qiu, D. H., Wang, Y., Wang, F. L. and Dong, G. H., 2003. Longshore currents of random waves on different plane beaches, China Ocean Eng., 17(2): 265–276.
Author information
Authors and Affiliations
Corresponding author
Additional information
The work was financially supported by the National Natural Science Foundation of China (Grant Nos. 50479053 and 11272078) and the Funds for Creative Research Groups of China (Grant No. 51221961).
Rights and permissions
About this article
Cite this article
Wang, Y., Zou, Zl. Longshore currents over barred beach with mild slope. China Ocean Eng 30, 193–204 (2016). https://doi.org/10.1007/s13344-016-0011-0
Received:
Revised:
Accepted:
Published:
Issue Date:
DOI: https://doi.org/10.1007/s13344-016-0011-0