Abstract
Based on the 3rd-order Stokes wave theory, the speed of freak waves is formulated in terms of the period and the wave height. Finite modified wave steepness gives rise to a significant enhancement of the nonlinear contributions to the freak wave speed in comparison with the 3rd-order Stokes wave theory. For a fix modified wave steepness, the estimated amplification of the nonlinear contributions due to the deviation from the 3rd-order Stokes wave theory is 0.22∼0.99. In addition, the velocity and acceleration fields are also documented in detail. In the present simulation, the horizontal velocities are smaller than the wave speed, and the freak wave exhibits a maximal horizontal velocity up to 37% of the wave speed and a maximal vertical acceleration up to about 20% of the gravitational acceleration.
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The paper was financially supported by the Science Fund for Innovative Research Groups (Grant No. 50921001).
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Cui, C., Zhang, Nc., Zuo, Sh. et al. A study on kinematics characteristics of freak wave. China Ocean Eng 27, 391–402 (2013). https://doi.org/10.1007/s13344-013-0034-8
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DOI: https://doi.org/10.1007/s13344-013-0034-8